paint question

[bax]

Ok I just sprayed down some etching primer on bare steel in the back of a bronco I need to seam seal the seams and put a sealer coat and primer coats, what is the proper order of applications for all of this???

 

[bknbronco]

I shot epoxy primer mixed as a sealor, then seam sealed, then paint. I allowed a day to dry before and after the seam sealor, but that's because epoxy takes longer to dry. Allow at least a day for the seam sealor to dry

I didn't etch because I used epoxy primer mixed as a sealer. I didn't prime because there is no point.

 

[bax]

I am thinking I want to use sealer next then seam seal then a few layers oh High build, some sanding a little filler here and there spot prime and then finish paint

 

[bknbronco]

sealer is used just before you paint. It provides a smoother than primer finish that's perfect for paint.

I primed, etched, and sealed in one step thus elimating a lot of material and time and $$$

Sealer is basically watered down primer. You seal over primer, not under it

 

[AZ73]

Search for Allenfahey. He's the resident painter and has gone over this a few times in other threads. Bknbronco is basically right, but some people like to etch prime first, Then WAIT for the acid to evaporate, then seam seal, then prime, sand, then primer sealer. I personally like all my primer sealer sticking to primer although you can shoot it directly over seam sealer. Depends on how much money and time you want to spend. This is from 3M



Directions for Use

1. Always apply over automotive paint or primer when applying to metal. Applying over bare metal will not provide enough corrosion protection. Acid etching primer is not recommended; if used, be sure to allow to fully cure before applying seam sealer, or residual acid can weaken the bond.

2. If necessary, clean and dry surface with 3M™ General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, PN 08984. Do not use an adhesive cleaner until the primer has fully cured.

3. Cut nozzle tip to provide 1/4" diameter bead. Puncture foil seal in base of spout. Knock out end seal at the bottom of the tube.

4. Place in 3M™ Professional Caulking Gun, PN 08993 and engage ratcheting mechanism.

5. Apply desired bead width and tool to final appearance, if necessary. When sealing is complete, disengage rachet to stop flow.

6. Wait to dry before applying paint over the sealer (if desired). Thicker beads of seam sealer will take longer to cure before painting. The stated dry time before painting is based on a 1/4" bead at 70 deg F.

 

[bax]

ok then lets go spray some primer. thanks for the help

 

[bax]

I sent Alan A PM but if he replied I would not get it because I am working off a laptop because my computer took a dump last night. That sucks

 

[allenfahey]

I sent Alan A PM but if he replied I would not get it because I am working off a laptop because my computer took a dump last night. That sucks

Here is the PM copied and pasted.....
You put the high build primer down first and after it dries sand it. If you are using sealer you can finish it in 320 or finer and a red scuff pad. You then apply the sealer after washing it off with prep solvent (degreaser) and tack it off with a tack rag. After the sealer flashes off you can spray the paint.

You can also skip the sealer if you want. You finish the primer off in 500 and depending on the color a grey scuff pad. If you have any small bare metal spots or old paint I would spray a coat of sealer on it. Sealer isn't a have to but is good to use for color coverage.

E-coat that is on new metal you sand with 320, red scuff and then apply sealer, flash, then paint. Some sealers you don't even have to sand the new panel but I always sand the outside surface but not the undersides.

Let me know if you need anything else!

 

[allenfahey]

Search for Allenfahey. He's the resident painter and has gone over this a few times in other threads. Bknbronco is basically right, but some people like to etch prime first, Then WAIT for the acid to evaporate, then seam seal, then prime, sand, then primer sealer. I personally like all my primer sealer sticking to primer although you can shoot it directly over seam sealer. Depends on how much money and time you want to spend. .

Never apply seam sealer overtop of bare metal or etching. If you use etching you have to apply primer first prior to seam sealer. There is no need nor is it recommended to sand etching. You let the etching flash off then you can apply either sealer or primer on top of it. You can also just use epoxy and skip the etching.

The way we do it in many shops I have worked in we do it like this..... For example the body man puts on a new 1/4 panel. I prime the bodywork on the upper uni-side and the rocker panel with epoxy primer. I then red scuff the seams in the tailight pocket and rear body panel or wherever there is seam sealer going to be applied. I apply a light coat of primer there. After it dries the primer is scuffed with a red scuff pad and the body man applies the seam sealer which is usually a 2 part type that hardens up. I then get the car in the paint shop and prep for paint. The bodywork is finished off in 320 and the e-coat on the rest of the new 1/4 is sanded with 320 and red scuff pad. I lightly scuff the seam sealer. Then it goes into the booth and washed off with prep solvent, tacked off, then apply a coat of sealer wherever the panel was finished in 320, let flash (now that we use waterbourne you have to totally let it dry) then apply paint, flash again, then clear.

 

[AZ73]

Never apply seam sealer overtop of bare metal or etching. If you use etching you have to apply primer first prior to seam sealer. There is no need nor is it recommended to sand etching. You let the etching flash off then you can apply either sealer or primer on top of it. You can also just use epoxy and skip the etching.

The way we do it in many shops I have worked in we do it like this..... For example the body man puts on a new 1/4 panel. I prime the bodywork on the upper uni-side and the rocker panel with epoxy primer. I then red scuff the seams in the tailight pocket and rear body panel or wherever there is seam sealer going to be applied. I apply a light coat of primer there. After it dries the primer is scuffed with a red scuff pad and the body man applies the seam sealer which is usually a 2 part type that hardens up. I then get the car in the paint shop and prep for paint. The bodywork is finished off in 320 and the e-coat on the rest of the new 1/4 is sanded with 320 and red scuff pad. I lightly scuff the seam sealer. Then it goes into the booth and washed off with prep solvent, tacked off, then apply a coat of sealer wherever the panel was finished in 320, let flash (now that we use waterbourne you have to totally let it dry) then apply paint, flash again, then clear.

Thanks Allen! How's the hand?