Painting Process

[BroncoKrawler]

I am in the process of sanding down an entire body. After sanding, I want to apply POR15 to the entire body. How much POR15 is needed for this? I was looking at just purchasing 1 gallon but I'm not sure if that will be enough.

 

[Hal9000]

The label should give you coverage estimates.

 

[DZap]

POR-15 is not UV stable. It must be top coated. Check their web site.

 

[sellitall]

If you stripped it to bare metal you should shoot it with an epoxy primer. PPG's DP series is a very good product along with RM EP series. POR15 is a good chassis or under body product. Not a good base coat or even sealer before base coat. You may try contacting them and see if they have some sort of sealer. Every time I buy a product from them it seems that they have some new products.

 

[BroncoKrawler]

After I coat the entire body, I will bed line the interior and paint the exterior. I guess something else should be used for the exterior?

 

['69 Bronco]

Use Epoxy primer on exterior and interior bare metal. Nothing is better to start with. Old school guys will tell you etch primer but we've come a long way with chemicals since then.

After the entire tub is covered with Epoxy then go ahead and bed liner the interior and paint the exterior.

As has been stated PPG makes an excellent Epoxy. I've used that as well as a few others. If I was doing an entire body I would use SPI Epoxy because of the lower cost but still top of the line protection.

 

[jetsg4]

use this formula if you can get the data

p = percent of solids of product
s = square footage of area
l = 100 - estimated percentage of loss
m = final desired milage of product

s / (1604 x p x l / m)

 

[allenfahey]

Don't use the POR in the bed. I would check with your bedliner instructions or the shop that is going to do it. They probably prep them with 80 grit which will have bare metal spots anyway. The bedliner would seal the water out so no worries about rust.

Just because the can says it is an etching doesn't mean it is a true etch primer. More that likely it is just a 1K primer. That said I use an acid etch primer called Variprimer from Dupont. It has an acid in it that bites to the metal. Then I prime with Spies HS (high solids) primer. I just did my bodyshop managers hood that had an old faded poorly done paint job on it. We stripped it to bare metal with stripper, then sanded with 320 grit. I then used the Variprimer, sealer, then the paint. By doing it that way we didn't have to sand any primer.
If I were to store the vehicle outside for a while I would use an epoxy since epoxy totally seals out moisture. HS primers tend to sand alot easier thats why we use it.
Tip.... only use the etch primer on bare metal. It can have a reaction with the existing paint and cause it to lift.

 

['69 Bronco]

A few problems with Etch primer. The main problem is it's not catalyzed. You can wipe it with thinner and it will come off. Epoxy is catalyzed and will not wipe off as it's bonded to the surface. The other problem is you can't use any body filler on it. The OP is sanding down an entire body to the metal. If he were to use Etch he would need to sand off the primer in any areas that require repair. If he were to shoot it with Epoxy he would do the repair right over the primer. If you were to ask the high end painters like Foose he would tell you the first thing you do after having a car stripped is "get it in Epoxy".

 

[BroncoKrawler]

Without sanding all the way down to metal, just to the old primer and metal in some spots, epoxy is the way to go?

 

['69 Bronco]

Without sanding all the way down to metal, just to the old primer and metal in some spots, epoxy is the way to go?

Yes, it excels for that type of application.

Follow the makers directions as to how much to thin it for use as a sealer.

I would shoot the epoxy then do all your bodywork. Then shoot high build primer, block it all out and then a final coat of epoxy. Do not sand the final coat of epoxy, shoot the base over it before it fully cures(3 to 5 days). Doing it that way you are increasing the chip resistance with a chemical bond.

 

[BroncoKrawler]

Eric: I'm looking at using Herculiner as Rhino Linings tend to rub off (mark you if you touch it). I don't much care for the texture of the Duplicolor and am looking for more grip. I'm not familiar with Qwik Liner. There are two tech articles on bedlining here.

'69: Any recommendations on the brand of epoxy? Thanks for the help.

 

['69 Bronco]

A cost effective epoxy is SPI. I don't have a link but I'm sure you can find it. They are a small company here in the U.S. and will ship to your house.

I've done some tests against PPG epoxy, which I think is one of the best and it's held up just as well for far less money.

I don't know anything about bed liners but feel free to ask me anything about painting.

 

[BroncoKrawler]

Awesome. It sounds like what I need. I have never sprayed paint or primer hence all the questions. What gun do you recommend for the epoxy. Is there a reliable gun for both the primer and paint or do I need separate units? I'm looking at doing the whole thing myself as paint jobs are pretty high. What paint brand do you suggest (best bang for the buck). This is going on a trail rig, so it doesn't have to be great but I would still like it to look decent.

 

[allenfahey]

Awesome. It sounds like what I need. I have never sprayed paint or primer hence all the questions. What gun do you recommend for the epoxy. Is there a reliable gun for both the primer and paint or do I need separate units? I'm looking at doing the whole thing myself as paint jobs are pretty high. What paint brand do you suggest (best bang for the buck). This is going on a trail rig, so it doesn't have to be great but I would still like it to look decent.

You can get by with one gun for both primer and paint if you clean it out good. If I were you I would get a cheap gun from Lowes or Home Depot for the primer. They tend to have a larger tip like 1.4 or 1.5 .

For your base and clear I would get a better gun with a 1.3 tip. If you spray base or clear with a large tip gun it will not lay out as good and tend to have more orange peel.

What gun to get?? Ask 10 painters and you will get 7 different answers. Most painters tend to like SATA's. I have about 8 or so SATA's but they are $$$ but also excellent guns. I also have a few Geo's made by Walcom which are good guns. I also have an Acuspray but it doesn't spray clear very well, good base gun. I also have a Devilbis GTI that I have used as my sealer gun with a 1.3 for the last 2 years. I bought it for use as a clear gun but I like my SATA RP for clear better. The GTI would work great for your needs and as a first time user gun.

For the paint.... PPG or Dupont are decent paint lines but it's going to be a trail rig. You could get a good covering base coat (like Spies) and use a cheaper clear. I've used most cheap low grade clears from Keystone to U-Pol. For the older cars I paint at work along with the used car dealer I do side work for I use the U-Pol. It might fade/die back a bit in a few years but a buff will bring the shine back.

I buy all my spray guns from spraygundepot.com which is a site owned by tcp who also sells paint and paint materials online. Most of the time they are cheaper than my local jobber and I save the sales tax