• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Patching holes left by old roll bar

norm02

Full Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
336
Hey everyone,

I removed the old roll bar that had been in my Bronco for god knows how long and replaced it with a 4pt bar from Tom's. My reason for doing so will more than likely sound silly but ever since I was a kid I've always hated the way the old one looked and preferred the look of the ones that mounted behind the rear seats as opposed to my old one that mounted on the fender wells in front of the rear seats.

I knew that the new bar would not utilize the same holes as the old one so being left with ugly holes in the floor and the fender wells was not a surprise to me. That being said, what would be the best way to get rid of the holes? Keep in mind that I'm eventually going to Rhino or Line X the floor of the Bronco.

My guess is to cut out the areas where the extra holes are and then patch those area back in and grind the welds down as much as possible. Assuming a professional shop can smooth the welds, I would think that it would be hard to see the repairs once a bed liner has been sprayed over it. Am I correct in thinking this? Does anyone that's dealt with this have any other ideas that would work better?
 

JSmall

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 18, 2004
Messages
3,223
I just did this. I pulled the old cage out and updated with a new design. I used copper on the bottom side of the holes and welded them up. It was easy and after you hit them with a grinder, you can't tell the old holes were there.
 

landshark99

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 13, 2011
Messages
1,401
I just did this. I pulled the old cage out and updated with a new design. I used copper on the bottom side of the holes and welded them up. It was easy and after you hit them with a grinder, you can't tell the old holes were there.



Did the same. I used a 1/4" piece of aluminum on the opposite side because that's all I had and welded the holes up. A little grinding and you can't even tell they were there from the inside.
 
OP
OP
norm02

norm02

Full Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2016
Messages
336
That's great news and sounds like it won't be too costly to remedy the issue. Thanks!
 

mpboxer

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2014
Messages
786
Loc.
Queen Creek, AZ
Depending on the size of the holes and how thin the metal is there on the wheel wells I've used washers or plugs to help close them up too.
 

Broncos n' VWs

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2005
Messages
360
I've used some square top roofing nails and round top ones as well. (check link below). You can mount them in your drill and shape them with a belt sander, then use the nail to hold it with a pair of vise grips, then grind it off later. Works pretty slick. Just find a non-galvanized one, as you don't want to inhale those weld fumes...

http://www.simplexnails.com/OriginalDataSheet.html
 
Last edited:

EricLar80

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 14, 2001
Messages
2,170
For small enough holes you can turn the heat down and just build the hole up from the outside moving in. No need to plug from the backside. Just did a few a couple days ago. You have to find the right setting and just keep tack welding until it's closed.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,787
That's what a friend did on his. Welded up all the smaller holes just using the welder. Did fill the larger ones (7/16 and bigger roughly) with something, but the smaller ones went well.
Really honed his somewhat limited skills with a welder too!

Paul
 
Top