Points to Electronic Ignition question

[Lonestar]

I am replacing my points ignition with a Durispark 2 electronic ignition. The I have a duel advanced on the points distributor and single on the electronic. <br><br>- 1st is a duel advanced correct for a 73 302 auto?<br>- 2nd if the distributor came out of a later model 302 (the gear was replaced, with a brass gear, for a newer cam. Do I need to change it back or will it work with mine<br>- 3rd anything else I need to know? advise<br><br>Thanks<br>

 

[mark74ranger]

By dual advance I'm assuming you are talking about the dual vacuum lines going to the vacuum advance. Actually the line closest to the body of the distributor is a vacuum retard line. When I went to the duraspark I bought a rebuilt motorcraft distributor from NAPA and had it calibrated at a local shop. The guy that did the calibration cut off the retard line so I wouldn't use it. He said it was for some purpose I can't remember now, probably emmissions, but that it adversly affected performance.<br><br>The brass gear should work fine for either a flat tappet iron cam or a steel roller cam.<br><br>Make sure you install a ballast resistor in series with the coil power wire.<br><br>Carry a spare duraspark box. They are $17 from Autozone with a lifetime warranty. If it dies, your bronco is dead, cheap insurance. I've had two die in the last 6 or 7 years.<br><br>Enjoy the Duraspark, it's the best $100 I've spent on the Bronco.

 

[74bronc]

[quote author=mark74ranger link=board=5;threadid=9206;start=0#65763 date=1032290729]<br>By dual advance I'm assuming you are talking about the dual vacuum lines going to the vacuum advance. Actually the line closest to the body of the distributor is a vacuum retard line. When I went to the duraspark I bought a rebuilt motorcraft distributor from NAPA and had it calibrated at a local shop. The guy that did the calibration cut off the retard line so I wouldn't use it. He said it was for some purpose I can't remember now, probably emmissions, but that it adversly affected performance.<br><br>The brass gear should work fine for either a flat tappet iron cam or a steel roller cam.<br><br>Make sure you install a ballast resistor in series with the coil power wire.<br><br>Carry a spare duraspark box. They are $17 from Autozone with a lifetime warranty. If it dies, your bronco is dead, cheap insurance. I've had two die in the last 6 or 7 years.<br><br>Enjoy the Duraspark, it's the best $100 I've spent on the Bronco.<br>[/quote]<br><br>Mark,<br><br>I am just curious, why a ballast resistor? I was told NOT to put a ballast resistor in mine when I converted over to Duraspark 3 years ago and my Bronco has been running fantastic ever since (knock on wood). If I remember right, part of the wire that goes to the coil is a resistance wire that drops the voltage down before it gets to the coil and in my understanding, this is the same thing a ballast resistor does.

 

[mark74ranger]

Yes the wire that has the braided covering and connects to the hot side of the coil is the ballast resistor, that's what I have as well. It is a resistive wire. You can use either one the resistive wire or a discrete component. Same function, different style.

 

[74bronc]

[quote author=mark74ranger link=board=5;threadid=9206;start=0#65780 date=1032293979]<br>Yes the wire that has the braided covering and connects to the hot side of the coil is the ballast resistor, that's what I have as well. It is a resistive wire. You can use either one the resistive wire or a discrete component. Same function, different style.<br>[/quote]<br><br>OK, that is what I thought you meant. I have seen and used the ceramic style ballast resistors with the terminals on each end before and I thought that is what you meant.