POR 15 or Chassis Saver, your comments

[shaun1300]

I am in the process of fixing my upper steering wheel mount that rusted away. I had to pull dash mostly out to get at brackett. There is a lot of rust that I would like to slow down while I can get it. I don't expect it to last for ever just long enough so the EB can be a daily beater when needed for a couple of years. I have no experience with either of the products but I have seen a lot of build threads mention using POR 15. I want something I can brush or spray due to dificulty getting to all areas. I will include some pix to give you an idea of what areas look like (like you havn't seen rust already). I high lighted in red the rusted steering bracket & the bracket that takes driver side windshield knob that rusted off. I would appreciate your comments. shaun1300

 

[BoltBuster]

I like POR15, it works very well, two major rules with it.

Do Not get any on the skin.

Use it when you get it, it doesnt store well, even if never opened in a climate controled area.

 

[Sac '68 sport]

Por 15 is great, just make sure you also get the thinner for the aformentioned skin issue. That said that is some pretty bad rust. If your not going to cut it out yet, I'd recomend a rust converter like SEM rust mort. I used it on my inner fenders and it stopped the rust for about 10 years untill I had the chance to get in there and cut it all out and start over. I just painted over it with rustolium, but POR 15 would probably be better. I think if you do the Rust Mort you have to do the POR etcher too. I remember reading something about not using POR directly over a rust converter.

 

[ryoungbronco]

I used Por15 on my frame and axles. Don't forget that it is UV sensitive so you will need to paint over it or it will get chalky. I know it is behind the dash but I'd still give it a coat of paint. As already said, don't get on skin and also use the metal prep they sell.

 

[fordtrucks4ever]

POR-15 works fine. Just like any miracle fixer, you need to follow the directions. But to clear up some information. You need to do whatever it takes and remove ALL of the loose scale. It does no good to cover up something that isnt going to stay attached. Your metal prep is nothing more than phosphoric acid, like most of the autobody metal preps available. If you get more paint than will be used in the near future, the shelf live can be extended. Only pop a small hole in one edge on top of lid and one more hole opposite just below the top on side of can. Poor from the lower hole, and use top hole as vent. When finished, cover with tape. Then store in the fridge. It will last for a very long time. I have a gallon purchased in 1999 that is almost empty now, and is just starting to thicken up. I also have 4 or 5 quarts that have been open and in use for over 6 years. Now for cleanup, all you need is lacquer thinner. It will remove POR up until it cures out. Use in very well ventilated area and low humidity. The fumes are not safe to breathe at all. Apply at least two coats according to directions. Unless the area in question is in direct sunlight, there is no need to cover with a top coat. I have used it on older 3 wheeler/ motorcycle frames and is still just as shiny when first applied. Obviously they dont sit out in direct sunlight when not in use for any length of time.

 

[shaun1300]

Rust Mort

I want to thank everyone for thier input. I am going to try the Rust Mort due to ability to spray in hard to reach areas behind dash. It may not last forever but my 68 is so bad it won't last either and would be too much $ to replace all metal needed. Photo will show you what I am talking about. I was waiting to reply until I checked various rust products out. shaun1300

Por 15 is great, just make sure you also get the thinner for the aformentioned skin issue. That said that is some pretty bad rust. If your not going to cut it out yet, I'd recomend a rust converter like SEM rust mort. I used it on my inner fenders and it stopped the rust for about 10 years untill I had the chance to get in there and cut it all out and start over. I just painted over it with rustolium, but POR 15 would probably be better. I think if you do the Rust Mort you have to do the POR etcher too. I remember reading something about not using POR directly over a rust converter.

 

[bigcountry]

Ospho metal prep works well too and can be sprayed wth a spray bottle.

 

[needabronco]

Some of the info on POR above isn't 'very accurate'. You need to open the can and STIR to mix everything up, DO NOT shake the can up, this will form bubbles and will drastically effect the outcome of the finish.

If you must store an opened can, clean the lip out the best you can and put plastic wrap over the top of the open can, then put the lid on, and store in the fridge. This will help keep moisture out of the can. BUT if when you reopen the can and there's a 'crust' in the can, then pitch it and get a new can...

Follow the direction for prep to a 'T' and you'll be fine.

 

[73azbronco]

any word on Rust Bullet stuff advertised to the left and up of this post which says it's better than por15?

 

[is_wiz]

You can review the Rust Bullet test on their website. They seem pretty straight forward and helpful. I used and like Rust Bullet. Very good product.
I think its better. and yes i do have experience with both po15 and rust bullet.

 

[Greg_B]

I am far from an expert with this stuff but I did by a can and all the prep stuff to "do it right" and I believe at least in my case it was cheaper to just by the sheetmetal parts new and paint the old fashion way than to by all the prep stuff and all the work that went along with it.

POR15 doesnt stick to clean or painted metal worth a crap and if you do not "prep" correctly you are wasting your time and will have to clean all the POR15 off and try it again. And no you cannot even paint over it very well without buying more expensive primer and "prep".

In my case it was floor pans. I could get new floor pans cheaper than all the POR 15 stuff and it probably isnt any more work than all the prep work required to "do it right"

Greg

 

[firehawk]

POR will do nothing for the problem in the picture.

 

[shaun1300]

I am trying Sem Rust Mort based on your inputs and reviews on web. Haven't received it yet, I like the idea it can be sprayed from a bottle. Company I bought it from www.ditchek.com says it can be covered with regular paint. Sem also makes a product called Rust Shield that they have a hardener for. I don't expect this to hold up for long, would be satisfied with a couple of years due to extensive rust, location and inability to clean scale/peices falling off. I haven't used any products other than Marhyde and Rustoleum whch peel somewhat leaving area unprotected, I feel I have nothing to loose. shaun1300

I am in the process of fixing my upper steering wheel mount that rusted away. I had to pull dash mostly out to get at brackett. There is a lot of rust that I would like to slow down while I can get it. I don't expect it to last for ever just long enough so the EB can be a daily beater when needed for a couple of years. I have no experience with either of the products but I have seen a lot of build threads mention using POR 15. I want something I can brush or spray due to dificulty getting to all areas. I will include some pix to give you an idea of what areas look like (like you havn't seen rust already). I high lighted in red the rusted steering bracket & the bracket that takes driver side windshield knob that rusted off. I would appreciate your comments. shaun1300