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Possible new 66-77 bronco owner with some ?'s

loudog3114

New Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
3
I am currently interested in buying one of these models to wheel, hard. I currently have a jeep cherokee with 6.5" lift, 44 rear, locked/spooled, 35's, etc that I beat the piss out of. I don't know a whole lot about the bronco's other than they have a 9" rear, 44 front, spring overs in the back, and coils in front. I would likely lift it 3.5" or so and do a 1-2" body lift to fit some 35's. With the xj, you have to do the drop pitman arm, track bar relocation, adjustable upper control arms, longer lower control arms, possibly a slip yoke eliminator or transfer case drop, etc. What will be different with the bronco? Do they have cv drive shafts stock? Are there adjustable control arms available or are those drop brackets the only option for adjusting caster? Basically I want to know, other than putting in springs and coils, what else will I need to replace to get it to drive from point A (my house) to point B (wheeling spot) reliably and safely? Will 3.5" lift and a 2" bl be enough for 35's? And what do i want to look for/avoid when purchasing? How strong and what spline are the axles on the 44 and 9"? Will I be snapping axles often if I dont upgrade if I lock them with 35's?
 

Jeepster

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 13, 2001
Messages
1,507
actually, A stock Bronco will do just about anything your jeep will do now.
 
OP
OP
L

loudog3114

New Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
3
actually, A stock Bronco will do just about anything your jeep will do now.

thats highly unlikely, especially if the axles are open or even limited slipped from the factory. but i'm not here to compete, just curious about the bronco and what work ill be in for...
 

Heus33

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Messages
7,408
3.5 and 2" BL will be fine for 35's. A little fender trimming may be necessary if you're looking to really be able to flex and tuck.

31 spline axles on the front and rear diff I think... or is it 28??

You shouldnt break any axles with 35's and a locker - plenty running that setup here...
 
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loudog3114

New Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
3
3.5 and 2" BL will be fine for 35's. A little fender trimming may be necessary if you're looking to really be able to flex and tuck.

31 spline axles on the front and rear diff I think... or is it 28??

You shouldnt break any axles with 35's and a locker - plenty running that setup here...

I know the 9" can come with 28 spline axles, thats why I ask. In fact I know a guy who has snapped axles on his 9" because he thought it was the 31 spline but it was the 28...
 

sprdv1

Contributor
REBEL
Joined
Mar 8, 2007
Messages
81,842
I know the 9" can come with 28 spline axles, thats why I ask. In fact I know a guy who has snapped axles on his 9" because he thought it was the 31 spline but it was the 28...

I do believe the 44 & 9" come stock with 28 spline in the EB ;D That could be different per year... not for the earlier models though.
 

Tito

CB Fire Starter
Joined
Jan 29, 2006
Messages
10,781
Loc.
Bakersfield, CA
3.5"' lift and 1-2" BL should be good for 35's and some decent flex room.
The caster on these is adjusted with bushings that go between the axle and the radius/control arms and dont require the mounting location to be dropped.
With a 3.5" lift most run a drop pitman and drop track bar bracket but others including myself (I have a 76 so it has a little different stock track bar bracket) are using a riser off the axle to relocate the track bar instead and usually use a stock pitman arm too. I think this differs if you have a 66-75 or a 76-77 because of the track bar mount.
Broncos come stock with cv shafts front and rear...yippie!!!
A lot of guys run extended radius arms (extra 10-12") (or extend them themselves) to get a lot more travel out of their suspension.
I'd extend the brake lines, you can get them from the vendor you get the lift from or off ebay. Rear driveshaft should probably be extended or replaced if you are going to wheel it a lot (Tom Woods is awesome for DS's)
Axles are pretty good stock and with 35's should be fine, they do sell alloy shafts for the front (not a larger spline, just stronger) by Yukon or any of the other major makers out there and the rear is often upgraded to 31 spline on those who wheel a bit more often. The 9" carrier needs to be changed for this but you can also get one out of any non Bronco 9" and they will be 31 spline. And gears, 9" doesnt require a carrier change for any set but the front if going from 3.50 (typical stock but not all) to 4.10 or higher will need a change.

You can check out my build thread on my wheeler by clicking on the Stretched 70 in my signature, I definitely dont know all the answers but I have learned a ton from this site and from just doing it.

BTW - good luck with your purchase, glad you have found the other side ;D
 

Skiddy

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
11,557
Sounds like you are hard on them like me;D Yes stock is 28 spline rear. I would either upgrade to 31 spline axles alloys for the rear or get one that has been upgraded. for a 3 1/2 suspension lift you will need adjustable tracbar may need drop pitman arm and will need either drop tracbar bracket ( i wouldn't recomend) or raised tracbar bracket which is a lot better. If you get 7* c bushings you don't need any drop bracket also not good. You may need to lengthen your rear driveline and will need to get longer e-brake cables and brake lines. I think thats about it. this may help also http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86447
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
I don't know a whole lot about the bronco's other than they have a 9" rear, 44 front, spring overs in the back, and coils in front. I would likely lift it 3.5" or so and do a 1-2" body lift to fit some 35's. With the xj, you have to do the drop pitman arm, track bar relocation, adjustable upper control arms, longer lower control arms, possibly a slip yoke eliminator or transfer case drop, etc. What will be different with the bronco? Do they have cv drive shafts stock? Are there adjustable control arms available or are those drop brackets the only option for adjusting caster? Basically I want to know, other than putting in springs and coils, what else will I need to replace to get it to drive from point A (my house) to point B (wheeling spot) reliably and safely? Will 3.5" lift and a 2" bl be enough for 35's? And what do i want to look for/avoid when purchasing? How strong and what spline are the axles on the 44 and 9"? Will I be snapping axles often if I dont upgrade if I lock them with 35's?
66 thru 70 or so came stock with a 9" rear and a Dana30 front diff. Sometime in 71 they went to a Dana 44 front diff. Also, different year Broncos had different flavor 9" in the rear,(small bearing vs big bearing). All Bronco 9" came stock with 28 spline rear axles. I have a 2 1/2" susp lift and 2" body lift and my 35's clear OK. I also still have the 28 spline axles, but I don't wheel it like an a$$. But on that note, I also have a 31 spline Detroit and Currie axles in the garage, waiting for me to finally decide on a new gear ratio! I don't know of any Bronco that did not come stock with CV joints in the driveshafts, front and rear. No control arms, as the Bronco Danaxx are solid diffs. With a suspension lift, the camber is regained by the use of degreed c-bushings (where the radius arms bolt to the differential). Most choose to avoid dropped radius arm mounts as they just add to clearance problems.
 

2BroncFamily

Sr. Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2006
Messages
358
Loc.
Hood River, OR
Yes to all of the above. A few upgrades to look for when buying a Bronco are disc brakes, power brakes, and power steering. If you buy a Bronco that has these already in place, you can save yourself some cash right off the bat. Also, the 76 & 77 have the "inverted Y" steering linkage, which isn't as tough as the "T" style in earlier years. But, the 76 & 77's came with power disc brakes and power steering from the factory.
 

muladesigns1

Full Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
166
Loc.
Goodyear AZ
If you want an unbiased answer from someone who appreciates and owned both brands?
They both are incredible off road. depending on how crazy you want to get offroad they don't need much until you start going with 35's and up.
Pros for the jeep is that they are so common, which makes them cheaper to buy and build. the pros on the bronco is they are a little heavier duty ( built on the F150 platform).
The other and most enjoyable reason for my Bronco over Jeep choice is the fact that they havent made them for thirty years, so when your driving it down the road you get lots of stares, and thumbs up, which lets you know you got something SPECIAL!
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,126
3.5"' lift and 1-2" BL should be good for 35's and some decent flex room.
The caster on these is adjusted with bushings that go between the axle and the radius/control arms and dont require the mounting location to be dropped.
With a 3.5" lift most run a drop pitman and drop track bar bracket but others including myself (I have a 76 so it has a little different stock track bar bracket) are using a riser off the axle to relocate the track bar instead and usually use a stock pitman arm too. I think this differs if you have a 66-75 or a 76-77 because of the track bar mount.
Broncos come stock with cv shafts front and rear...yippie!!!
A lot of guys run extended radius arms (extra 10-12") (or extend them themselves) to get a lot more travel out of their suspension.
I'd extend the brake lines, you can get them from the vendor you get the lift from or off ebay. Rear driveshaft should probably be extended or replaced if you are going to wheel it a lot (Tom Woods is awesome for DS's)
Axles are pretty good stock and with 35's should be fine, they do sell alloy shafts for the front (not a larger spline, just stronger) by Yukon or any of the other major makers out there and the rear is often upgraded to 31 spline on those who wheel a bit more often. The 9" carrier needs to be changed for this but you can also get one out of any non Bronco 9" and they will be 31 spline. And gears, 9" doesnt require a carrier change for any set but the front if going from 3.50 (typical stock but not all) to 4.10 or higher will need a change.

You can check out my build thread on my wheeler by clicking on the Stretched 70 in my signature, I definitely dont know all the answers but I have learned a ton from this site and from just doing it.

BTW - good luck with your purchase, glad you have found the other side ;D

That is a good starting point. To clarify some details...

Broncos came with a ford 9" rear axle with 28 spline axles only. 31 spline is aftermarket. didn't come from the factory that way until '78

The front axle is a Dana 30 or 44. Don't trust the year, they tend to get swapped around. 4 bolts hold a kingpin and usually indicate a dana 30. one big nut is for a ball joint, dana 44. Stock Dana 44 axles have little U-joints on the axles. Look at upgrading these. Dana 30's last fairly good in a Jeep but die rather fast in a Bronco if abused.

Gears, lockers and transmission could be discussed forever. Pick what you can afford and approperate.

Driveshafts come factory with CVs, watch the angle of the rear CV, it is easy to go too severe without knowing it.

Lifts are basicly a set of coils and bushings for the front and leaf packs out back. Blocks and add a leafs are not the best for a bronco but have been used. Getting fancier starts adding longer/relocated shock mounts front and rear, longer arms in front. Don't forget the brake lines. Some form of adjusting caster after lifting. Common method is C-bushings. Long arms also do it with some built in caster correction. Severe cases may need to have the knuckles cut and turned.

Modern technology works very well on early broncos (soft springs, EFI, computer controlled transmissions, etc.).

For 3½" you should look at drop pitman arm or heim joint steering but only when matched with drop track bar bracket or the better track bar axle riser bracket. Basically comes down to if you change the track bar, you need to change the steering as well. You can get bumpsteer that is a real pain.

Other things to research; power steering, 351W, hydroboost, disk brakes (mostly for the front), death wobble, axle wrap. I am sure there are a few more common things, just can't think of them right now.
 
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