Power steering box seals?

[broncojack]

I'm attempting to reseal the input seal on my stock 4 turn box. When I took the valve body off, the stub shaft moved up a little. Now I can't seem to screw it down to back where it was before I took it apart.

Should I take out the stub shaft and reinstall?
I don't want to open up a can of worms.
Any help would be appreciated.
Jack

 

[Viperwolf1]

Keep the box oriented with the input pointing up. Pull the input shaft out. It will bring the spool valve with it. You only removed the adjuster. Look in the box and you'll see the end of the worm gear. There is a pin on the edge of the worm gear that needs to index to the spool valve. Don't pull the spool valve from the input shaft or you will be aligning another pin inside there. The big o-ring goes between the spool valve and worm gear. You have to make sure the spool valve is fully down on the input shaft and the shaft sticks straight out of it. Keep pressure on the spool valve and slide it and the input shaft back into the box while keeping the pin and slot lined up. Again, don't push down on the input shaft or let the spool slide up or you'll need to rest the spool on the input. Once it's down and the input is straight you can screw the adjuster back in.

Do not attempt to remove the worm or let it fall out or you'll have a big problem.

 

[broncojack]

Well I got it back together.
I installed the input shaft, valve body and stub shaft all together and got it to sit in there just fine.
The problem I'm having now is it went from a 4 turn box to only turning 3 turns.
I guess I have to re-clock the valve body?
Do I need to center the out put shaft?

Thanks for your help Viper.

 

[broncojack]

I took it back apart reinstalled the value body and stub shaft. It bench test fine with 4 turns.
I then installed it in the Bronco with the pitman arm and tie rods hooked up.

I can feel it's not right. It locks up when it's turned all the way to one side.

Looks like it's going to have to come all the way apart .

 

[Viperwolf1]

Are you saying it turns fine when the drag link is disconnected but not fine when it is connected?

If that's the case maybe your drag link is the wrong length for the clocking of the pitman arm on the box. A stock pitman arm has 4 keyed splines and can really only go on in one position. One that has been modified can go on in many positions.

I suggest you center the position of the box before attaching the drag link. Then make your wheels straight. Then you can either make length changes to the drag link or reposition the pitman arm on the box to make everything come together.

 

[broncojack]

Let me back up and describe where I started from.

I have a 74 with a 6 turn box and I wanted to put in a 76 4 turn box to make it better to drive. I installed the 4 turn box and everything was fine. It drove great but it was just leaking from the input.
The steering geometry and drag links are all stock.

I'm thinking the worm gear came up when I removed the valve body.
Maybe my balls are out of alignment?

 

[ntsqd]

Careful how you say that......

 

[Viperwolf1]

Let me back up and describe where I started from.

I have a 74 with a 6 turn box and I wanted to put in a 76 4 turn box to make it better to drive. I installed the 4 turn box and everything was fine. It drove great but it was just leaking from the input.
The steering geometry and drag links are all stock.

I'm thinking the worm gear came up when I removed the valve body.
Maybe my balls are out of alignment?

If that's the case, it would be limited in travel only in the left turn direction. Does that seem to be what's happening?

If so, you really need to open that box up. Might as well replace all the seals while it's apart.

 

[broncojack]

If that's the case, it would be limited in travel only in the left turn direction. Does that seem to be what's happening?

If so, you really need to open that box up. Might as well replace all the seals while it's apart.

Yep, thats exactly what it's doing.
I'm going to put the old box back in and enjoy driving it the rest of the summer.


Thanks for your help.

 

[broncojack]

I finally got into disassembling the steering box. There are plenty of videos on YouTube for the Saginaw box rebuilds and all were much the same. During reassembly I found it easier to drop all the balls in while turning the input shaft. One after another alternating silver then dark colored balls while they rotate on the worm gear. I believe there were 22 balls total.

I took it out for a ride and all is good now.

I used a short strap looped around the box to get it in and out . That really worked out great after scratching up my hands the first time.

Two tools that helped out were a large pitman arm puller and a pulley holder tool for the input shaft lock nut.

I hope this helps others out.
Jack