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Project: 76, Orange Special Decor

.94 OR

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Jul 5, 2009
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Willamette Valley, OR
More attention to detail than I have on mine for sure.
Any concern about the hoses being clamped to the passenger side inner fender well rubbing the paint off over time?
Would an offset block on each clamp help at all?
 
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gnsteam

gnsteam

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ThaI am going to make a matching bottom clamps. To raise the hoses off of the fender.
More attention to detail than I have on mine for sure.
Any concern about the hoses being clamped to the passenger side inner fender well rubbing the paint off over time?
Would an offset block on each clamp help at all?
Good point. I will make a matching base clamp to raise the hoses a bit off of the fender. Thanks.
 
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gnsteam

gnsteam

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Tonight I mounted an Explorer P/S cooler and an auxiliary transmission cooler. Which was given to me by Bruners4. The transmission cooler is from a Toyota Tundra. I will give them both a coat of black paint.
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And I did add a brace to the tab on the top of the trans cooler. To the upper core support. Just not pictured.
 
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gnsteam

gnsteam

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I had enough time this evening. To mount the Vintage Air, heater control valve. It is under cowl. Next to the ECU box. The heater hoses will route from the center of the firewall. Running up high against the underside of the cowl. Over to the valve and over the ECU box. Then down around the ECU box, looping back to the straight heater fittings on the evaporator.
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Speedrdr

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Paris, MS
I had enough time this evening. To mount the Vintage Air, heater control valve. It is under cowl. Next to the ECU box. The heater hoses will route from the center of the firewall. Running up high against the underside of the cowl. Over to the valve and over the ECU box. Then down around the ECU box, looping back to the straight heater fittings on the evaporator.
View attachment 948448
View attachment 948449
That’s what I want mine to look like when it “matures”.
 
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gnsteam

gnsteam

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A few more items worked out last night. After cutting a part and shortening the Explorer heat tubes. That pass along the passenger side valve cover. We installed the shortened version of the tubes, along with the Gates 90 degree molded 5/8" heater hoses. It all lays along the valve cover very well, IMO. I am going to make a twin hole tubing clamp. To secure the cold return side tube to the hot supply tube. The hot supply tube threads into the manifold. The cold return tube just floats between the long heater hose and 90 degree bend water pump hose.
 

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gnsteam

gnsteam

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P.S. I forgot to mention. I found a good use for the extra space on the old ECU location cover plate. ARB, diff, trans and transfer case breather. I'm going to paint the plate to match the body color and paint the brass fitting black.
 

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Mark1911

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A few more items worked out last night. After cutting a part and shortening the Explorer heat tubes. That pass along the passenger side valve cover. We installed the shortened version of the tubes, along with the Gates 90 degree molded 5/8" heater hoses. It all lays along the valve cover very well, IMO. I am going to make a twin hole tubing clamp. To secure the cold return side tube to the hot supply tube. The hot supply tube threads into the manifold. The cold return tube just floats between the long heater hose and 90 degree bend water pump hose.
I have been following along, and for something that appeared to be an ECU/A/C placement issue has really turned out to be in my opinion really nice!
Beautiful workmanship!

I really like what you have done.

Mark.
 
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gnsteam

gnsteam

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I have been following along, and for something that appeared to be an ECU/A/C placement issue has really turned out to be in my opinion really nice!
Beautiful workmanship!

I really like what you have done.

Mark.
Thank you. It has been a challenging project, but I am pleased at how it is playing out. And I hope the posts of my struggles. Will help others with their installs.
 

904Bronco

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gnsteam, What I don't see is a cross over tube (1/4") between the hot and cold pipes that was in the Explorer piping that you eliminated. It's there for the temp sensor for the ECU. When the heater control valve is closed it allows some water to flow so the ECU sees a true coolant temp. Not criticizing, just pointing it out...
 
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gnsteam

gnsteam

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I did not know that about the bypass. Thanks for the explanation. I should be able to work in a bypass before the valve. For esthetics, maybe in the lines behind the dash. Will see.
 

Bruners4

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1/2 way to everywhere
@904Bronco I thought that line was to run through the upper plenum to warm it in cold weather to shorten the warmup time. Never even thought about keeping fresh current temperature coolant on the sensor for the ECU. This might explain my P0117 code that I can keep cleared.
 
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gnsteam

gnsteam

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@904Bronco I thought that line was to run through the upper plenum to warm it in cold weather to shorten the warmup time. Never even thought about keeping fresh current temperature coolant on the sensor for the ECU. This might explain my P0117 code that I can keep cleared.
After reading 904Bronco's post. I was going to ask you. If your seeing any issues, being your heater line bypass is not there or blocked. I have an idea for how to add a bypass to my set up. Locating the bypass just, ahead of the heater control valve, under the cowl. The bypass can be made out of brass pipe fittings. Put it together in an "H" pattern. Using two "T" fittings at 1/4 nptf for the thru flow and 1/8 nptf, for the cross over between the "T" fittings. And four, 5/8" bard by 1/4 nptm fittings.
 

kman67

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gnsteam

gnsteam

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I finished the install of the James Duff, front, body lift filler panel. More work than it sould have been. If the restoration shop had done the job I had asked them to do. They were instructed to pre fit and mount the panel before painting. Turns out, they only painted it. No mounting holes in the lower grill. And the lower grill mounting surface was very wavy along its length. So I spent about an hour straightening the lower grill surface without damaging the paint. And an other hour locating the seven mounting holes and drilling the holes. Once I was able to bolt the panel in. It did not match the curved profile of the lower grill. The lower edge of the panel was about an inch lower the the grill. With the panel bolted up tight. I was able to increase the bend at the mounting flange a front face of the panel. By gently pushing at the panels lower front face. Until the panel matched the grill profiles at each end. It came out better than I expected. The only negative, is the body gap at the ends. Not to much I can do about that without reshaping the ends and repainting. So good enough.
 

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904Bronco

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You will see that gap every time you look at the front end... To the average person, they will never see it, and they will think it is awesome.
I started giving my painter a detailed list (yes I am Type A) and went over it when I dropped off the Bronco. (There was a wrong color applied)
He is a great guy and does great work, but like the rest of us who are busy, some of the details we talked about get forgotten. The list keeps us on the same page.
Sorry I know this is after the fact, but maybe others who read this thread can learn from what we have dealt with... I think it looks great, Nice work with the post paint mods you had to do!
 
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gnsteam

gnsteam

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Thanks. Yes a written list of must haves. Would have helped avoided the issue. Lessons learned, and I hope others learn from this post. I am still pleased with the overall work done by Bombers Garage, here in Lincoln, NE.
 
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