Quality Aftermarket Ignition Switch

[abn373]

I am replacing my hacked-up OEM dash with a replacement dash that only has the speedo/column/relocated glovebox. I installed a Centech harness in the late 90s and it works fine, but the Centech ignition switch looks ugly, the key is pathetic and looks like it's for a golf cart, and if I am going to put a better switch in. Now is the time to do it since I have to drill a new hole anyway.

QUESTION: Has anyone used a more modern type key/switch? I don't have doors, so I am not concerned about matching keys. My truck is not close to being an original, so that is not an issue. I would actually prefer a more modern "fullsize" type key if possible. I have also been looking at keyless push button start (with a FOB as the proximity key) like my newer vehicles have, but that may be a hassle with Bronco that often requires some cranking to start. I would consider it though if anyone had any success (carb'd with electric choke).

To clarify, I need some type of key for security, be it metal or a fob or whatever. Its not an offroad only type vehicle that I can just use a pushbutton start.

Thanks

 

[abn373]

I am replacing my hacked-up OEM dash with a replacement dash that only has the speedo/column/relocated glovebox. I installed a Centech harness in the late 90s and it works fine, but the Centech ignition switch looks ugly, the key is pathetic and looks like it's for a golf cart, and if I am going to put a better switch in. Now is the time to do it since I have to drill a new hole anyway.

QUESTION: Has anyone used a more modern type key/switch? I don't have doors, so I am not concerned about matching keys. My truck is not close to being an original, so that is not an issue. I would actually prefer a more modern "fullsize" type key if possible. I have also been looking at keyless push button start (with a FOB as the proximity key) like my newer vehicles have, but that may be a hassle with Bronco that often requires some cranking to start. I would consider it though if anyone had any success (carb'd with electric choke).

To clarify, I need some type of key for security, be it metal or a fob or whatever. Its not an offroad only type vehicle that I can just use a pushbutton start.

Thanks

This is the current set up. Hard to believe that flimsy key has worked for this long. Its beside a standard type 90s F150 regular car key for comparison.

 

[ol gray mare]

X2 on the golf cart switch. Mine lasted 20 years and was still working fine. I just had a hard time looking at it. I replaced mine with an OEM style. I got the bezel and plug in for the switch on ebay and the switch on Amazon. Centech sells the plug in, but they're pretty spendy.

 

[toddz69]

Back in the '80s, my dad converted ours to use a '70s F-Series ignition switch that has the double-sided key. To this day, I still use that type of switch because the key is more robust and you can stick it in 2 ways without issue. It's a bit more 'modern' than the EB key/switch, but not much. I've also seen guys use the matching door locks from the same trucks, if desired.

Todd Z.

 

[abn373]

Back in the '80s, my dad converted ours to use a '70s F-Series ignition switch that has the double-sided key. To this day, I still use that type of switch because the key is more robust and you can stick it in 2 ways without issue. It's a bit more 'modern' than the EB key/switch, but not much. I've also seen guys use the matching door locks from the same trucks, if desired.

Todd Z.

Damn! you are onto something there I don't see why I couldn't get this 78-79 Bronco switch to work (It's also 73-79 F-series). Seems like if I purchase parts 8,9,10,11,12 on the LMC parts diagram, that should be easy to make work and includes a harness. The hole in the dash appears to be a simple circle. The only thing that would require some mods (possibly) is part #10 to secure it against the back of the EB dash, but that doesn't seem far-fetched. All 5 parts plus keys come out to $52.75 plus whatever they are going to charge for tax and shipping. I like that it is an actual readily available part (the actual switch) as far as replacing it vs these universal switches like I have now. Plus, no golf cart keys.
Unless someone posts a better idea in the next day or so, I am going to order it.
Thanks toddz

 

[4xfun]

If you go the push button route, I remember seeing a couple of old school writeups on using a magnetic switch for theft protection. You put a magnet of the dash in a certain place and it closed the switch.

 

[FordBronc]

FYI as far as using a 78/79 Bronco or a 77-79 Ford truck ignition, same same. You can order them with the tumbler and key already in it. LMC diagram item #10, and #11 go in from the back side of the dash. And item # 9 threads on from the outside/front side of the dash.

So the dash hole needs to be as big as the threaded part on item #11. Or the OD of item #9. Make sense? Not very much of item #9's outer lip catches the dash edge.

Scott Drake makes a ignition bezel 3 finger key. Or just use a flat tip screw driver in one slot and tap tap tight.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-ignition-switch-bezel-tool-1967-1968/p/HW1661/

73 to 1975 and maybe a 76 switch has less connections than a 77-79.

 

[toddz69]

Thanks for the additional tech on the switches - I'm not sure which version I have in mine, although I did replace it a few years ago. Mine is a little different in that the switch sits proud of the dash - I should take a pic and post it. I've thought about recessing it to match stock but have never gotten around to it. I didn't even know part #10 in the LMC diagram existed! That's also a cool tool that Drake sells - I sometimes pull them out and have to use a screwdriver which tends to bung up the notches in the ring.

Todd Z.

 

[abn373]

Thanks FordBronc,
I went ahead and ordered parts 8-12. I took your advice and got the 73-76 F100 harness. All other parts were same for 73-79 F-series and 78-79 Bronco.
If anyone is interested, the total (from LMC) with taxes and shipped to SC, was about $76. Not sure where LMC is located, but I would guess it will be similar price for anywhere in US.
I doubt LMC would be the cheapest, but they had all the correct parts in stock and for $50 I didn't feel like sourcing the parts at multiple places because I doubt I would save all that much.
I will follow up on this post when I get it and install them.
Thanks fellas

 

[FordBronc]

Well glad you got a plan and are moving fwd. Sorry I should of voiced my opinion BEFORE you ordered from LMC which are in Lenexa Ks by the way. They are the LAST vendor I would use. Most of their stuff is cheap overseas repop junk. Sorry I did not voice my opinion with my 1st reply.

Dennis Carpenter is my go to vendor. https://www.dennis-carpenter.com

https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/bronco/

78/79 switch https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/tr...n/d8tz-11572-a-ignition-switch-housing-assemb

70-76 switch https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/trucks/electrical/ignition/d0tz-11572-a-ignition-switch-housing

Very interested to see how you get it wired up. Please post up a walk thru with a what connection of the switch goes to what wire on the Bronco. I have a 76 parts truck what has the same smaller ignition and I want to do the change over. If you need some more Ford truck diagram help just holler.

 

[abn373]

Well glad you got a plan and are moving fwd. Sorry I should of voiced my opinion BEFORE you ordered from LMC which are in Lenexa Ks by the way. They are the LAST vendor I would use. Most of their stuff is cheap overseas repop junk. Sorry I did not voice my opinion with my 1st reply.

Dennis Carpenter is my go to vendor. https://www.dennis-carpenter.com

https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/bronco/

78/79 switch https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/tr...n/d8tz-11572-a-ignition-switch-housing-assemb

70-76 switch https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/trucks/electrical/ignition/d0tz-11572-a-ignition-switch-housing

Very interested to see how you get it wired up. Please post up a walk thru with a what connection of the switch goes to what wire on the Bronco. I have a 76 parts truck what has the same smaller ignition and I want to do the change over. If you need some more Ford truck diagram help just holler.

Damn. Yeah I have never ordered from LMC. I was trying to avoid the chinese amazon junk and may have stumbled right into it. Its getting harder to order anything these days.

 

[FordBronc]

Really sorry I did not voice my opinion up front. I have used some of their items way in the past. I drove across the border and over the counter shopped the place. Never again, unless I can not find the part no where else and I can not find what I need in the JY. Here is a list of vendors that "Us" 73-79 Ford truck folks use a lot. Surprisingly a few of these also carry EB repop parts. NOT meaning to take any thing away from the big 3 EB vendors out there, but when you need a part, its nice to know of a lot of options where you can look for one.

Parts Vendors & Resources
Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts
National Parts Depot:Ford Truck Parts & Accessories | 1948-1979
MAC's Antique Auto Parts
Blue Oval Truck Parts
Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
The Early Ford Store-San Dimas,CA
Truck & Car Shop (Orange, CA): 48-86 Ford Trucks, 66-86 Ford Bronco
C&G Early Ford Parts: 32-79 Ford Trucks (Escondido,CA)
Sacramento Vintage Ford
Flashback F-100s: 48-2008 Ford Truck Parts
Vintage Pickup Truck Parts & Restoration Resources Directory
Green Sales Company - Vintage NOS & OEM Parts
TABCO Inc.- US Made!Replacement Sheetmetal & Parts
https://www.cjponyparts.com/

 

[904Bronco]

Really sorry I did not voice my opinion up front. I have used some of their items way in the past. I drove across the border and over the counter shopped the place. Never again, unless I can not find the part no where else and I can not find what I need in the JY. Here is a list of vendors that "Us" 73-79 Ford truck folks use a lot. Surprisingly a few of these also carry EB repop parts. NOT meaning to take any thing away from the big 3 EB vendors out there, but when you need a part, its nice to know of a lot of options where you can look for one.

Parts Vendors & Resources
Dennis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts
National Parts Depot:Ford Truck Parts & Accessories | 1948-1979
MAC's Antique Auto Parts
Blue Oval Truck Parts
Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
The Early Ford Store-San Dimas,CA
Truck & Car Shop (Orange, CA): 48-86 Ford Trucks, 66-86 Ford Bronco
C&G Early Ford Parts: 32-79 Ford Trucks (Escondido,CA)
Sacramento Vintage Ford
Flashback F-100s: 48-2008 Ford Truck Parts
Vintage Pickup Truck Parts & Restoration Resources Directory
Green Sales Company - Vintage NOS & OEM Parts
TABCO Inc.- US Made!Replacement Sheetmetal & Parts
https://www.cjponyparts.com/

Thank you for the list, I have been ordering parts to get my 79 back on the road.
Pleased with DC, Pleased for the most part with BGY other than a $4 part showing up with $16 worth of shipping! (With no option for other shipping?)
LMC has been okay, other than me questioning the finish on an inner fender I bought in October, having a replacement part show up in mid November, and they finally sent an email communication this week saying that they have replaced the part. I guess (??) that they felt the 1st one was substandard? And there has been no request to get the 1st part back?

 

[abn373]

I finally got around to installing the switch today. It came out great. A 1 3/8" hole saw makes the correct size hole for the bevel to sit flush. The F150 behind the dash support bracket actually fits like its OEM. I just need to drill a small hole at the end to secure it. This was just a mock up.

 

[DirtDonk]

Good to see that coming along. Thanks for the additional good pictures.
I always wanted to do that too, or even substitute a column mounted switch, in order to still use the matching door locks.
A new later model column always seems to fiddly, and too much work though. The flat one on the dash is very slick.

 

[FordBronc]

Awesome ! Can you please do a detailed write up on the wiring conversion/hook ups to go from that one ign switch to the EB wiring. Thank you a million up front. Bonus is, I have a 73 also, so standing by anxiously.

 

[abn373]

Will do, it may be a week or two and will probably be a bit of a ham-fisted explanation, but once I do, I will do some pics and that will get anyone started.

 

[FordBronc]

No worries I have a ton of other parts to install before that, but it is on my project list for sure. Especially since my old OEM ign key switch is getting sticky and sometime does not want to work. And I have a couple of these old switch setting around. Again I appreciate it very much.

 

[abn373]

Just an update. I think I have the wiring figured out. I was going to use the pigtail harness I got (73-76 F100) but the quality did not seem that great and the wires seemed a gauge or two smaller than my Centech harness. Also, the plug doesn't really lock in like a modern harness with a clip and such, so I am 90% sure I am just going to use 4 spade connectors with shrink wrap and it will be a better more waterproof seal anyway. and will pull out just as easily as the F100 plug (which sucks because I want it locked in to prevent it from pulling out. I may still figure that part out. Anyway, after sorting through a million blurry diagrams and wrong model year pictures online, I just decided to use multimeter and do continuity test on the terminals and I should have just started there. If any of my electrical terms are incorrect, I won't be insulted if you correct me. I am an amateur and try to remember the terms I have heard along the way from others.

I made this simple diagram of the actual back of the switch. For me it is only 4 wires and to be honest it is only really 3, let me explain, the ACC2 position (what I call turning key to the left of OFF) should only probably have the heater circuit it on it. I have completely deleted everything related to the heater/fan system in my truck. The whole circuit does not exist nor does the hardware, but that is where you would wire it. Instead, I have the ACC2 circuit and the ACC1/RUN (what I call the first notch over between OFF and START) both wired into the same circuits on fuse panel, which is fine for me, but maybe not you (aftermarket self-made fuse panel) so for my simple truck, everything works on both key positions.

There are 2 terminals that I believe are called PROVE OUT, I am not using these because I do not have a Brake Warning Light or Brake Switch. I believe (someone chime in if I am incorrect) that this is where you attach those items. Apparently, some Fords (mustangs) used 2 terminals, and some used 1. I don't know personally.

I have a 1990s Centech harness, so for my diagram I used the color of wire for the arrows/words associated with that spade terminal if that helps anyone. As far as an OEM harness, I don't know the color wires you would have. I will update more when I get a little farther along.

 

[DirtDonk]

I’ll try to double check some of those connectors on the back of the switch to see what they actually are. There should not be two prove out terminals. And there should be an on/run terminal only in addition to the ACC terminals.
The main thing I see wrong with your scenario is that with everything wired to the ACC terminal you have things like ignition and charging system running anytime you’re just listening to the radio. Or do you not have a radio?
There’s a reason they put those items on an ON/RUN-only terminal.