quick questions...

[canada]

What do you rccd for steps?

Also After looking at all the gauges, where should they read as far as temps go?

Appreciate it.

 

[DirtDonk]

On a properly running stock-ish engine, the oil pressure should read optimally between 30 to 40 hot, and 60 to 70 cold. But anything within that range is acceptable and could even be considered "normal" due to differences in engines. Generally, if you have 10 lbs per 1000 rpm of engine speed, you're safe.
If you see readings below 10, you should verify with an external mechanical gauge. If correct, you should begin searching for the reason. On old engines, running modern super thin oils can do this, but with a fresh rebuild you should be able to run literally a 5w/30 engine oil without trouble. But on older engines like ours, I've seen where a good 20w/50 will sometimes bring pressures back up into that normal range I mentioned earlier. I used 20w/50 for many years in mine, and oil pressure stayed steady between 45 and 70 right up to the time I sold it with 175k miles on it.

Your water temp should read right about whatever the thermostat is, so you'll need to know that. There were 160's, 180's and a bit higher available, but 180 should be "stock" if I remember. So your temp gauge should waffle around that number most of the time.
On hot days it should stay normal, but under load like a long uphill climb or hard wheeling it will go up above 200. Anything below 230 is workable, but by the time it gets to that point you should be considering stopping and letting it cool down a bit.
If it's running below 180 all the time, you should verify with an infrared thermometer and, if it matches, find out why the engine is running too cool, such as checking for a too-cool rated thermostat or one that's just stuck open.

The ammeter should read all over the place, depending on conditions. But it should not oscillate quickly, or you've either got a charging issue, or the gauge's dampening has just gone away over the years. It happens, but is easy to check. With the key OFF, tap the glass above the instrument, or even give the metal dash a good flick of a knuckle. If the gauge remains stable, it's probably still serviceable. If it flops around when you wrap it with your hand, then it's going to read less than consistently and should be replaced if you can find one that's still tight.
Ammeter should read zero when the engine is off. They don't always, but as long as you know where it sits when off, you can still get a good guess when things are running.
You'll see a spike in the + direction when you first start the engine and the alternator puts out a larger charge to top off the battery. It will gradually reduce the charge to just above zero when you're driving around. You will see ups-n-downs as you turn on accessories like lights and the heater, but things should eventually even out back to that near-zero spot.
An extended positive charging cycle means something may be wrong with the battery, alternator and/or regulator, or a connection somewhere. Anytime you see it go below zero with the engine running, your charging system is not keeping up with the load.

That help?

Paul

 

[canada]

Yes Paul . thank you. I am pretty sure gauge not working and if I recall the ammeter
Does flicker quickly in the centre when i drive. I'll give it the knuckle test tmrw

I have had times when I went to start it and it was dead but after removing and re hooking cables to posts she was good again

The battery is new

Thanks again

Can gauges be purchased easy enough if they are not working

 

[DirtDonk]

Sometimes.
Occasionally you'll find them individually, but most of the time someone has a full cluster for sale after replacing with one of the new digital units, or we have refurbished clusters for sale too. Some still have the ammeter, or you can get them with a voltmeter replacing it instead.

When it fails to start, what does it do exactly? Crank slowly, or not at all? If not at all, does it click once then die?
And when it does it, do you lose all power to everything?
If the latter, then there's better than a 75% chance you need one or more new battery/starter cables. But give us the full symptom rundown first.

Back to your first post regarding steps (sometimes I don't get the computer-speak right away!) there are some options, but only a few real good ones.
What is the step for first of all? Kids, wives, parents, whoever? Are they needed getting in AND out? What about strength? Any heavier people using them?

There is at least a relatively flat backside to the rocker, so it is possible to mount a hoop style step. But it's not the most solid way, so not necessarily recommended for regular use or heavier people. If you find one with big mounting pads and maybe even reinforce it just a bit, you can get good use out of that type.

Regular nerf bars are usually NOT good steps. The way they fit typically can work for getting in, but are very sketchy for getting out. Downright dangerous sometimes!

Both hoops and nerfs will also lose some ground clearance too of course. Not an issue if your Bronco is used primarily as a fun around-town rig. But off the highway a hoop will get ripped off quickly, and a nerf may get pushed into the rocker panel early due to it's lower elevation.

The best step in my opinion is a tube welded to a rocker panel protector. Or at least something similar to that. It's just that this type is most often associated with a rocker protector. This is the one we sell: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/15705
Typically the most expensive (of course!%) ) but probably the best at both getting in and getting out, and just happens to be real good at protecting the body from hard places. About the only downside I can think of is it's higher than other steps. So if height is the major concern, that puts it near the middle of the list. Not the bottom, since I think the drawbacks of standard nerf bars still put them at the bottom.

No ground clearance loss, more strength than most nerfs and all steps (that I know of anyway) and affords protection and looks good.
Not a bad combo. You pay for that privilege, but it can be well worth it.

Paul

 

[canada]

thanks paul

When it fails to start it is just a click and nothing. After that I charged the battery and good to go. But this weekned after driving it here and there for 2 days, my daughter and I couldnt get it started again. A good guy pulled up in front of open hood and tried to boost us but she just wouldnt start even after having cables on for a few min. He told me once running at home take the pos end off and if shuts off then I need a new alternator. So after pulling her home w my truck- we were only a mile or 2 away, I charged battery for the afternoon. She started right up, so I pulled the pos one off and shut off. So I assuming like he said- a new alternator. Shopping online for one now.

I will look at those steps also.
Thank you very much for your time and input

 

[DirtDonk]

Unfortunately that's a dangerous test to perform. A lot of us have done it however, and it's a reasonably decent test, but doesn't really show the underlying reason for the lack of charging out of the alternator.
And it can damage the alternator to boot! Which is why I say it's not a good test.
Better to have a volt-meter do the work for you.

But once the battery is charged, the alternator has nothing to do with the starter not working. When you get the click and no start, does everything die? OR do you still have juice to the key and headlights and such?

In your searching for a replacement alternator, make sure you have the right type. Do you know what yours is? Is it stock Bronco, or could it have been changed?

Good luck.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

What does this beast look like under the hood by the way? Is it stock wiring, or has it been modified? Or has it been hacked? Lots of that going around, so I had to ask.

Then engine dying on a stock-ish truck would definitely indicate something amiss with the charging system, but that could be a bad wire, bad regulator, or bad alternator. Or any combination thereof too.

The engine clicking and then nothing could be a dead battery from lack of charging, a dead battery from it just being beyond it's useful life, or a bad connection at one or both of the cables.

Could also be the ignition switch, but any of those things could be the mystery culprit.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[canada]

once I get the click and no start I dont have anything at all. After the battery placed on the charger it shows it has very little juice. I can charge it and drive for days again.

I have a spare battery in the back today, and am taking it down to an anlternator shop for the owner to look at.

I am pretty sure it is the stock one from the looks of it.

Thanks

Unfortunately that's a dangerous test to perform. A lot of us have done it however, and it's a reasonably decent test, but doesn't really show the underlying reason for the lack of charging out of the alternator.
And it can damage the alternator to boot! Which is why I say it's not a good test.
Better to have a volt-meter do the work for you.

But once the battery is charged, the alternator has nothing to do with the starter not working. When you get the click and no start, does everything die? OR do you still have juice to the key and headlights and such?

In your searching for a replacement alternator, make sure you have the right type. Do you know what yours is? Is it stock Bronco, or could it have been changed?

Good luck.

Paul

 

[canada]

Looks like all stock to me. Other than maybe th air filter looks newer.

going to change the battery clamps as well, as they do look like they need it

What does this beast look like under the hood by the way? Is it stock wiring, or has it been modified? Or has it been hacked? Lots of that going around, so I had to ask.

Then engine dying on a stock-ish truck would definitely indicate something amiss with the charging system, but that could be a bad wire, bad regulator, or bad alternator. Or any combination thereof too.

The engine clicking and then nothing could be a dead battery from lack of charging, a dead battery from it just being beyond it's useful life, or a bad connection at one or both of the cables.

Could also be the ignition switch, but any of those things could be the mystery culprit.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I'd have to say you're on the right track then. From your description I can only think of two things that can cause that to happen.
One is a truly tired battery, that has virtually no reserve capacity left and will even die dead to death (what?) every once in awhile. Probably bad cells and internal connections.
The other is the battery cables themselves.

Nothing else on the truck can do that. Again, at least not that I can think of right off hand.

Good luck with the swap. At least the cables are very inexpensive (can you say, "cheap insurance"?). And like you're planning, you might as well replace them anyway.
And get a real good battery.

Sounds like your battery is the lead culprit, but if you really want to know where the trouble is, just replace one at a time and try to drive it. Whether a single cable or the battery, just have all the others and a few tools in the back of the truck waiting to be used in a pinch if it stalls out again.
That's how I would have done it when I was younger and didn't mind changing out parts in a parking lot or the side of the highway. It's kind of fun tracking down the true offender in a dilemma like this. But I'd probably just do it all at once now, just to save time and hassle.
Ah, who am I kidding... I'd probably still do it! %);D

Paul

 

[canada]

took alt off last nt, and guy tested it this am. stone dead. new one here tmrw.
should take care of the issue. thanks for all the info. Now to get it back in and back onto that tail light