Rear 4 link Help

[Yeller]

Lowered 4" is a good start and opens up a lot of options. To clarify the percentage, with 10" of separation at the axle the frame side would be 5-7", closer than 5 and the anti squat gets too high. Rather than raising the frame side of the uppers, lower the frame side of the lowers 2", the numbers will look much better. One of the drawbacks to having the coilovers mounted to the control arms is without a tube chassis it is very difficult to get the frame ends where they need to be to get the steering angles very low. How much is too much is up to interpretation of what is acceptable by the driver, some are comfortable with very loose and some it has to be very tight to be acceptable. I do think if you lower frame side of the lowers it will get to an acceptable level. The next thing I would do is have a professional tune the shocks, it's amazing the difference it can make. I need to find a new guy, mine retired and does not do it any more. I do know who to ask, there is a guy that has been traveling to Ultra 4 events that is really good so if your patient you wouldn't have to travel to the desert southwest to get it done.

As for pics, here's what I have readily available.
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242196

 

[68ford]

Just throwing this out there, but based off you not having a c notch on the frame I can assume it can sit quite a bit lower. I run 35in tires with no body lift and all bumpstop material completely removed from the frame and the axle still rubs the frame rail at the same time a 35in tire slightly rubs the top of the inner fender well. You likely also need to cut a hole in the floor for the upper link mounts to come up through.

 

[rcmbronc]

I did lower the truck about 3 inches all around. Handling is night and day better. Very drivable now and comfortable. Now just tuning some bump stop lengths and looking at spring rates. Also setting the secondary spring settings in the coil overs. So right now I am happy with the results. Need more time to keep tuning. Thanks for all the help

 

[Yeller]

Good to hear your getting it sorted out. Less height always makes them better, lower CG makes things behave so much better. That's why mine is at near stock suspension height

 

[rcmbronc]

I am going to go a bit lower but I will need some new springs to do it so it will be a bit.

 

[68ford]

At your new/current ride height, what is the measurement from top of axle tube to bottom of framerails? If there was no bump stop or bracket, like if it was just the rectangle tube of the frame.

 

[rcmbronc]

I will measure that tonight and let you know.

 

[pcf_mark]

With the OPs single triangulated upper you will get a lot of rear roll steer. You can jack up one side and the suspension will roll up into the wheel well. A lot by the look of it. If this is what you are going for great but if not that is going to be a real handful to drive. As that axle rises on one side it will reduce the turning circle of the truck because it is going to steer into a tighter circle. In road racing you design in some rear roll steer to help cornering but only a few degrees not a few inches.

I'll go back to the sidelines I never built a rig for crawling.

 

[nvrstuk]

Post up the frame rail to axle tube measurements when you get a chance...interested in what you come up with.

 

[rcmbronc]

Will do. Ran out of time last night.

 

[rcmbronc]

I have 8” from top of axle tube to bottom of frame

 

[JSmall]

I have 8” from top of axle tube to bottom of frame

With 2” of suspension lift how much up travel do you have?

 

[rcmbronc]

Not sure what you are asking for?

 

[JSmall]

Not sure what you are asking for?

At ride height how much up travel do you have before you are into you bump stops?

 

[rcmbronc]

I start to hit the bump stops at 5" travel

 

[68ford]

Are you oposened to lowering ride height maybe another inch or 2 then removing the bumpstop completely and doing a small c notch in the frame? Obviously upper shock mounts would need raised and hole in the floor for the upper links to come through about 1 in. My axle tube contacts my frame frail that is the bar square tube. Ride height I am 6.5 from frame to axle tube. 35in tires just rub the top of the inner wheel well.

 

[nvrstuk]

It's hard to get it all with our Broncos... great travel, great ride, great articulation, not be full width so you can drive it on rainy days and not be harassed by the law, keep the great Bronco looks by leaving "some" fender, ability to have a back seat, gas tank under the bed-not in it, etc...

I went thru all these choices as most of us do... taller the tire, the difficulty compounds.

Extremely hard to get it all and still have it be a 4 seater Bronco AND look like a Bronco...not impossible, but tough, especially linked...

Keep at it, you'll get it!!

 

[CA Monkey]

Builds are also based on region. Being west coast, we like to do 2-3 day long trip where we have to bring everything with us. Because of that, none of us are looking to cut into our beds if we can avoid it because it takes away from the amount of stuff we can bring. Central and east coast guys usually go places where the park the trailers in a centralized location and go on short trails which means you don't have to bring a lot with you.

I run 40's with 2" BL and 5" suspension lift and I'm currently trying to go with less lift as the taller you are, the harder it is to get in and the less you use it. I went full width axles but run 5.5" BS on my wheels and run the silverback (wide) flares which keeps the tires from sticking out. I'm currently leaf sprung with a shackle flip but watching this thread as I'm torn on how to improve my drive ability, reduce axle wrap and lower the rear more.

 

[nvrstuk]

Like you said CA Monkey...different builds for different areas and people. I missed another 2,000 mile road trip to the Rubicon this summer...that takes some gear storage, highway manners for 4 long solid days of driving, gas tank capacity, etc... not forgetting that you're wheeling pretty hard all week and you still have to drive home a thousand miles...

I run 40"s, 2 1/2" susp lift on ORI's with 6" uptravel, 4 linked and not full width. Took forever... handles great on the freeway but just prefer highways... thanks to those that helped get my suspension dialed in...

 

[rcmbronc]

I am not opposed to lower. I actually want to for sure. I need some new front springs to do it. I will also need to raise my bump stops as they bottom out a bit before the frame would hit the axle. Cutting into the bed for the top mount also is doable. I think I may also cut out the rear crossmember and move the fuel tank and lengthen the wheel base. Put the lower link brackets on the front of the axle and new top links. Should also help. Honestly if I was smart at this point I should have just cut the frame behind the seats and installed new with a custom floor. I really did not want to over cut on the truck but it would have been easier and better packaged. Right now I cans still have the back seat in the truck which is good. It will probably become the winter project to lower it more. Also need more power now also so that also.