Rear main seal question

[Gweiner]

My question is not a simple one...can a newbie with moderate mechanical ability fix the rear main seal? How involved is it? Trying to do some research here (this site has been a life saver for a stunod like me). It sounds as simple as dropping the oil pan, replacing the seal and re-sealing the oil pan? Am I missing something?

If there's more to it and takes some skills, wondering if I should just take it to the shop and pay. Just hate to pay if it's an easy task.

Appreciate any feedback/guidance and instructions or tips.

 

[Lennardlector]

Just follow the instructions and you're good to go. Haven't needed to do it on the bronco yet, but I replaced one on my Sbc 2 years ago. Pay attention to what side has a lip and insert correctly, apply sealer where necessary but don't overload or it'll squeeze into places where it shouldn't and clog up your oil pickup. Clean oil pan surfaces, get all old gasket material off and wipe dry with laquer thinner/mineral spirits. Best to have a buddy help to put the pan up in place. I just lay under and stick phone books on my chest to hold it in place while I set the bolts!!

Drink some beer, calm the nerves and take it one step at a time. It's not as easy as changing the oil but its one step up IMO.

Also be prepared for stuff to break. I started at 7am yesterday to change my water pump. Didn't stop till 6pm cause 4 bolts were seized and 1 broke off in the case. You should see the state of the bolts and how corroded everything is. Got it all back together but now my pullies don't line up because the shoulders on the new flowkooler pump are thicker and make my brackets stick out in weird angles so its
modification time....

Yeah it's a PITA, but if I fix it I know it will work, or at least I will know what I did wrong.

It's your car and its a classic, you should learn to do the simple stuff now or it will get really expensive in the long run.

 

[blubuckaroo]

I agree that you shouldn't own a 4X4 unless you learn how to make simple repairs. Money won't save you on the trail.
Even though this web is for a Jeep, it explains pretty well the details of the seal replacement.
http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearMain.htm
Also, if you plan any motor work, this book is indispensable.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpb-hp89?seid=google&gclid=CMvqpNrdvbUCFYFxQgodayoA3A
Above all, have fun with your project!

 

[TBS-POPS]

The only technical part it you have to loosen the main bearing bolts to let the crank drop about 1/4" to get the old seal out and new one in n the top half. You will need a torque wrench to retorque the mains to spec. Not hard to do. Good luck!

 

[chuzie]

Depends on year of motor. One piece vs two piece seal...drop crank vs drop transmission.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk 2

 

[patterdale]

Agreed, you need to know which engine you have. There are 3 possibilities- the old rope type seal-the two piece rubber lip seal- or the one piece rubber lip seal. I never loosened the mains to replace the first two just dropped pan and rear main. There are techniques to remove the seals. The last one requires dropping the trans to get at it.

 

[Gweiner]

Thanks guys. I have a 74' 302 total stock with a 2bl carb and 3spd tranny on the column. Does that help identify which seal and process i need to follow? I would hate to get up to my ears in this and realize I have to drop the tranny....

 

[chuzie]

Nothing is ever black and white with these vehicles as you never know who has swapped what. Best bet would be to check out the engine casting numbers above the starter on the block to confirm.

 

[blazinchuck]

i agree with chuzie, best to know exactly what block you have....more than likely...your 3sp linkage bolts to side of block(like we talked about) if thats the case it should be a 2pc design. as far as i know all later block (ie. 5.0) did not have the provision for mechanical linkage for manual trannys. good luck with it, keep up posted,Chuck

 

[PaveBronco]

WARING!! CAN ‘O Worms….
My rear main seal was leaking also, so I got the seal, pulled the pan, well my clutch has been on its last legs for a few years so I decided to change it, that led to pressure plate resurface, new ring gear. Transmission, starter, transfer case rebuild with twin stick, shift rail mod. Then I decided to replace a very worn tie rod end (also milking for a couple of years) that led do all new steering linkage TRO, WH drag link riser, rebuilt column and shaft u joint, now starting on the leaking power steering box…. But its all so my daughter will have a safe vehicle to drive to school….and the coolest by far…
I have to thank the Bronco community for great info, could not have done any of this without your help.

 

[investigreg]

WARING!! CAN ‘O Worms….
My rear main seal was leaking also, so I got the seal, pulled the pan, well my clutch has been on its last legs for a few years so I decided to change it, that led to pressure plate resurface, new ring gear. Transmission, starter, transfer case rebuild with twin stick, shift rail mod. Then I decided to replace a very worn tie rod end (also milking for a couple of years) that led do all new steering linkage TRO, WH drag link riser, rebuilt column and shaft u joint, now starting on the leaking power steering box…. But its all so my daughter will have a safe vehicle to drive to school….and the coolest by far…
I have to thank the Bronco community for great info, could not have done any of this without your help.

HAHA! I started with a deal on a NV4500 that I said to the wife, "I am going to fix everything while I have it apart."

rear main replacement was more scary to me then dropping the old tranny, new clutch/ flywheel, cutting floors, body lift, resealing the Tcase, new driveshafts... I did my rear main with only taking the rear main bearing cap off. Be careful not to scratch anything up there. use a wood dowel or something softer to push the seal out of the cap, and push the top half out of the block. BTW, it is a good time to take notice of wear on that rear main bearing. I was suprised that mine looked like new!

Greg

 

[chuzie]

Yep ^^^^. I have seen in some books where they suggest you use a small sheet metal screw, drive it into the seal and pull the seal via the screw. DON'T DO THAT!!! You run the risk of scratching the crank. Make sure you oil it well before installing it too and don't forget the RTV.

 

[Bronco73]

Its been a long time since i messed with a rope seal but don't the rope seals have a pin in the cap that keeps the rope seal from spinning and when replacing the rope seal with a two piece rubber seal you have to remove that pin?