Rebuild the C6 as strong as possible

[lowbush]

OK, I am leaning towards rebuilding the C6 myself. I am going to buy one of the rebulld kits to start with and here is what I know so far:

I want to go with a kit that has:

Kolene steels
Red Alto race frictions
Kevlar bands

are there any other items I should be looking for in a quality kit? and do you have a kit recommendation?

There seem to be some good deals on kits on ebay, but being ebay I am leery.

Also I know there are some parts that are not in the kit, that can be upgraded to make the trans much stronger. Anyone familiar with rebuilding the C6 for performance, the stroker it is sitting behind is pretty hopped up and I think that is why it got trashed in the first place. Though the C6 is not going behind a 1000hp application I want to build it like it is, so I need recommendations of weak links that I need to replace (I know weak links and the C6 is relative, but I managed to trash one already) . I am going to do the rebuild myself and am not going to go with a builder.

 

[bmc69]

Super servo (R) upgrade was a standard feature in every one of our MX 4x4 race trannies. You've pretty much listed the rest already. We never bought a complete kit, preferring to buy a gasket/seal kit separately and specifically picking out the other parts individually.

Also...depending on what you have in there now, there is a HD clutch assembly that uses one more disk set than the regular duty model. It's been so many years (>15) since we were actively building the C-6s that I've forgotten a lot of the details. There was also a lathe modification we'd do to the input shaft to improve oil distribution...

 

[Timmy390]

I would talk to these guys
http://www.broaderperformance.com/

They build C6's to stand up behind big block FE's and sell the kits to do it yourself. I've talked to them a few times about the C6 behind my FE.

Their C6 500hp kit sounds like it has all the parts you need.
This kit includes all friction and steel plates, selective style steel plates, stepped pressure plate to add 1 extra friction in your direct drum, Carbon/Kevlar flex band, all gaskets and seals, #9 needle bearing kit, F ratio servo lever, complete thrust washer kit with selective, 5 stage shift kit, vacuum modulator, pump bushing, extension housing bushing, heavy gauge deep steel oil pan and our technical manual with several photos and modifications explained even for the novice builder. All modifications can be done with a set of drills and a hand grinder.

Tim

 

[lowbush]

I would talk to these guys

Thanks Tim, I sent them an email, I will see what recommendations they come back with, maybe they can put together a kit to get me there. I don't want to rebuild this thing again.

 

[Timmy390]

Might also want to checkout "Ford Transmission Forum"
http://www.network54.com/Forum/260730/

I've cruised it a few times and ask a question or three. They talk everything Ford transmission on there. It's an old school forum format but does have a search......

Tim

 

[lowbush]

OK so I am pulling the trigger on buying later today and wanted to get any last input on items that should be done to beef up the C6, here is my shopping list so far:


The Billet servo as Bill recommended
http://www.broaderperformance.com/ford-c6-/4-r-code-servo-kit-.html


A 5 clutch Drum:
http://www.broaderperformance.com/ford-c6-/68-c6-5-clutch-direct-drum.html

I have a few questions on that one, for an offroad truck is it better to get the one with the drain holes and Broader talks about one with lubrication modifications for high RPM applications, I know mine wont be high RPM applications but I don't know if there is a tradeoff for having the modifications done. If it only makes it stronger with no drawbacks I am going to have it done.

Broaders 500HP kit:

http://www.broaderperformance.com/ford-c6-/69-500-hp-rebuild-kit.html


The high strength reverse hub:

http://www.broaderperformance.com/ford-c6-/79-high-strength-reverse-hub.html

The one way clutch assembly from the AOD:

http://www.broaderperformance.com/ford-c6-/149-c6-one-way-clutch-assembly-.html

I am thinking about also doing the following:

The Sprag upgrade:

http://www.broaderperformance.com/ford-c6-/77-heavy-duty-sprag-upgrade-kit.html

A tuned valve body:

http://www.broaderperformance.com/ford-c6-/7-auto-shift-valve-body-.html

And the reverse planet gear:

http://www.broaderperformance.com/ford-c6-/85-rollerized-reverse-planet-gear.html



Thoughts would be appreciated, I only want to do this once, if anyone sees a glaring upgrade that I have missed let me know. The intent is to not do this rebuild again.

 

[73azbronco]

also consider the torque converter you will be using, I had hi recommendations for Hughes converters.

 

[bmc69]

Think ya used enough dynamite there Butch? Your C-6 build pretty much exceeds what we use(d) in our MX and bog racers (several around 500HP but none exceeding it by much)...and we never had one fail, ever. Methinks you will be good for the long haul.

What are you using...or planning to use...for a cooler? Heat is the enemy of all auto trannies...

 

[Timmy390]

Think ya used enough dynamite there Butch?...

Classic line.....

Tim

 

[lowbush]

Think ya used enough dynamite there Butch? Your C-6 build pretty much exceeds what we use(d) in our MX and bog racers (several around 500HP but none exceeding it by much)...and we never had one fail, ever. Methinks you will be good for the long haul.

What are you using...or planning to use...for a cooler? Heat is the enemy of all auto trannies...

I have an external cooler up in front of the radiator. Honestly this thing was supposed to be rebuilt in the rolling chassie I bought, and the parts on it look that way. The guy that was bulding up the chassie before he decided to sell it was doing it right, it's got a nice cooler set-up on it. So I cant for the life of me figure out how I burnt the damn thing up trying to pull a Rav-4 out of sugar sand. My only guess is something was not set up right inside of it. I half expect to find a 5 band drum in it already, but given that I smoked it, I figure on replacing it anyways. Though I guess I should drop it and see what I got in it, before I order parts.


I am pushing a bit of HP with the stroker so I just want to make sure I have all bases covered, more importantly, given that I am going to rebuilt the C6 it's probably going to sit behind a fairly hopped up 4BT until I can build up an overdrive tranny to go behind it.

That being said, I tend to like to only dynamite things once. Rather be out an additional $500 in insurance parts than doing another $500 and weekend of work.

 

[bmc69]

That being said, I tend to like to only dynamite things once. Rather be out an additional $500 in insurance parts than doing another $500 and weekend of work.

Oh I hear ya there....I'm usually the same way about building stuff..... "Moore's Law" in practice.

 

[bmc69]

I have an external cooler up in front of the radiator.

Add a trans temp sender and gauge too. Having one of those has saved more than one tranny I know of.

 

[lowbush]

Add a trans temp sender and gauge too. Having one of those has saved more than one tranny I know of.

Good call, it's on the purchase pile now. Any recommendations on vendor?

Thinking one of these in the cooler line would work well:

http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessoriesdetail.aspx?vid=169

 

[bmc69]

Good call, it's on the purchase pile now. Any recommendations on vendor?

Not really..I've used VDO, Autometer and Stewart Warner...no complaints about any of them.

 

[SpareParts]

Heat will kill them for sure, you wouldn't go with out a temp gauge on your motor...I can't see why a tranny temp isn't standard as well. My Autometer has always served well too. I've always been told that a C6 with a properly set up valve body, like engineered, is capable of holding 500 hp. stock. Sounds like you'll be good for a long time as long as its kept cool.

Several Monster trucks are/were running them when I was crewing for them. We would get a year or so out of them behind a 1200-1500 hp blown 572. Not for sure what all was in them, but probably not much more than what you are doing. I watched the guys at Bigfoot tear one apart in Indy one year and didn't see much different parts than the stock parts in mine. Good luck!

 

[lowbush]

Some people are swapping in the AOD first and second due to lower gearing, am kicking around seeing if I can find an AOD at the junk yard and grab the gears.

 

[Rustytruck]

Is your truck properly geared for your tire size. Being out of gear really heats up the converter and cooks the fluid. Even if you have all the motor power in the world to pull it its still hard on the converter and the fluid. Ive only used valveoline type f fluid and its always been good to me.

 

[SpareParts]

I believe you are talking about the E4OD gear sets, they are also known as a wide ratio set.

 

[lowbush]

I believe you are talking about the E4OD gear sets, they are also known as a wide ratio set.

Yep that is what I meant.

 

[lowbush]

I have one more question on my build, I did not have a kickdown cable on my truck, and I figure now is as good a time as any to get one on there, I read somewhere that the AOD kickdown is actually a better cable to use than the aftermarket cables, one of the reasons given was that it mounts to one of the pan bolts. Can anyone confirm that its the best cable to use and if not what is a good cable?