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Rebuilding a Dana 20 transfer case question

Ripcity

Full Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2008
Messages
220
Loc.
Coos Bay, OR
I am in the process of converting my Bronco from 3 speed to C4. I would like to rebuild the Dana 20 transfer case while I have it out. Any special tools required? I have a lot of tools and am mechanicaly inclined but never have had one open before. How difficult is it? Would you recommend a decent do it yourself mechanic to do it or should I take it to a shop. My shop wants 250.00 plus parts to rebuild it. When I say rebuild I mean installing the kit including seals, bearings, gaskets, gears should be fine.

Thanks
Tim
1970 Ford Bronco with new power steering oh how nice!
 

Viperwolf1

Contributor
electron whisperer
Joined
Aug 23, 2007
Messages
24,341
Do it yourself it's easy. You will need to find access to a press to setup the rear output assembly. Oh, and break the yoke nuts loose before you pull the case.
 

Sweathog

Full Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
311
Loc.
Lansing
Check out a Bronco Driver magazine about 1-1/2 ago. They had a very detailed "How To". Take plenty of pictures and lay everything out on your bench as you take it out. There are less parts in the case than you think.
 

Buldozer

Bronco Virtuoso
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
3,065
Loc.
God's Country
This is not a hard job, but it does take some special tools that some may not have and it takes quite a bit of patience. If you are short on either, take it to someone and let them do it for you. But if you think you can do it yourself, first search for post on here with tips...there are several. A few of the tips I like to mention is (1) put a spacer inside the idler gear as you knock out the axle pin that it runs on (if you plan to reuse the needle bearings) ....I use a piece of PVC pipe and some recommend making a wood dowel the same size as the pin. Either one works fine...and if you are replacing all of the needle bearings inside the idler gear, just knock out the pin and let them fall out because you can use the plastic pipe or wood dowel when you put it back together (2) you will need a dial indicator to set the shims to the proper end play in the yokes when you reassemble them, and (3) make sure and spray each of the external shims (front & back) with copper gasket spray to keep them from leaking or you will be taking it back apart. Don't ask me how I know this! Good luck.
 

TN1776

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
2,632
Its not hard. As the others said - you need a press. Having a second set of hands and eyes around helps too.

Start with a clean workbench with lots of space to lay stuff out. Take it apart carefully labeling the various pieces and snap a few pix as its coming apart.

It goes together pretty easily - as others have said though, search around on this site - there is good information about the whole process to be found.

The parts are not expensive and (taking my time) I was able to completely rebuild mine in a weekend. If I'd have gone about it a little quicker, it would have been done in an afternoon.
 

needabronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 2, 2004
Messages
6,411
Loc.
Prescott/Farmington
I did mine without a press. All you need is a little creativity. I did however need a brass drift. Use plenty of vaseline to hold the needle bearings in place when you put it together. Good luck.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
This might help.
http://www.classicbroncos.com/dana20/dana_20_manual.htm

I did mine myself. It's really not hard at all. There's a couple shafts that need bearings pressed on and off. needabronco says he got "creative", but I just took the shafts to a local mechanic, and, for $20 he pressed the bearings for me. Buldozer offered some very good suggestions. They will make sense when you get into the transfer case.
 

malcolmzilla

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 18, 2003
Messages
1,522
Loc.
Calgary, AB, Canada
I didn't need a press, mind you I had new bearings and beat the old ones off.

For reassembly, I warmed the new the races with a propane torch, and had the shafts in the freezer for a bit prior, and everything went on easy with light tapping using tube as a driver.

x2 on the gasket spray between the shim packs and RTV on the idler.

End play I took a guess and it works fine. Set it a bit stiff as the bearings will wear/seat a bit.
 
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