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Red 72 Explorer Sport Patina Rebuild

Chiclassics

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Joined
Sep 2, 2025
Messages
253
New PCV valve made a difference. Idle smoothed out and now RPMs don't rise when line is pinched off. $2.35 well spent.
Bulls eye...its gonnna only get better from here on. Once you replace adv diaphragm further adjust timing...thats why I love these analog parts they only complain when something is really bad. They typically have high tolerance for errors unlike digital starts complaining the moment something is loose. I took my Willys CJ2A Jeep on a coastal drive day after I just bought it. I drove on PCH from Santa Monica to Malibu and back (24mile drive ) I slightly felt little bit of engine hesitation when I restarted engine at Malibu..Once I got back I checked engine oil level and it was 10%, still it ran like a champ. These classics were made for extreme conditions, they fight like a warrior until last breath before they die....so I never get upset when something is not working on these vehicles because the reason is always extreme and not silly..
 
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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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Gardnerville, NV
3 days back and forth to the Super Cel, added another 160+miles to the odometer and everything is doing well. And I'm getting pretty good gas mileage to boot. I'm looking forward to the fine tuning after making sure the advance and all the vac systems are working.

The paint looks so good in the sun. There is a lot of subtlety to the patina that doesn't show under the shop lights. I won best LUBR at the Super Cel! And a Duff gift certificate too!

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I was chasing a squeak for a couple days. I couldn't hear it while driving unless I was near a building or fence and the sound could bounce back to me. It also didn't happen until I had been driving for a while. It was clearly at a wheel but I couldn't ID which one. Finally, I found a small worn corner on a rear brake shoe, there was no sign of a corresponding mark on the drum so I took some material off the shoe backing pad and the squeak finally stopped. On another brake oriented note, I definitely need to add a proportioning valve to the rear brakes.

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Chiclassics

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253
Congrats! Well deserved.

Btw @gunnibronco may be you mentioned this somewhere what is the tire size (diameter and width) I like the stance. And whats your lift.
 
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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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Messages
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Loc.
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Congrats! Well deserved.

Btw @gunnibronco may be you mentioned this somewhere what is the tire size (diameter and width) I like the stance. And whats your lift.
Very well deserved. Your work on this Bronco is superb. Congratulations.

Thanks! I'll give a lot of the credit to the rig itself. It is such an unmolested, original, solid platform to start with, making it "right" has been pretty straight forward. 30 years of messing with Broncos, and 9 years to build a plan and collect parts made the process pretty smooth. There have been a few surprises (I'm not surprised), but nothing bad. The advice I've received here, and also at the Super Cel have been great as well.

@Chiclassics they are 3.5" WH springs (springs were used so they have settled) and 33x10.5 tires, rear axle is in the factory location, NOT pushed back 1". The wheels are 15x7 with just under 4" back spacing, it might be 3.75" (I'm not sure where to measure from). The tires do rub on the radius arms before full lock, but it's manageable. I wasn't expecting to go with 33s when I started, but a few here and on FB suggested they will fit. I'm super happy with the look, and I haven't experienced any sheet metal rubbing. I did take it on a dirt road with some "whoops". I didn't bomb the road, but it didn't rub either.

Phase I is coming to an end, it's a great driver now, better than I expected. Small projects include:
  • Vac advance, tune carb & timing
  • Add brake prop valve to rear line
  • Water temp gauge- I have a spare I'll try before buying new
  • EVAP/Air cleaner fitting- fitting arrived yesterday
  • Jack tools- I need the jack crank tool, jack bag arrived yesterday. I got some pics of very original trucks yesterday and I need to reorient the fender jack bracket and get the lug wrench to fit the hold down's right
  • Reinstall repaired factory clutch rod & new bushings- I have an adjustable one installed now
  • Turn signal cam & straighten steering wheel
  • Fix horn
  • Passenger door latch/exterior door handle is temperamental (getting worse). Latch just needs a cleaning probably. Driver door is like butter after the latch had a good flush & relube.
  • Finish flushing cooling system with distilled water and add coolant- I've been running water only. I've run and drained the radiator a couple times, but water is still VERY rusty. I'm not sure how many more times it will take, but cold temps will force the issue soon.
  • I'll probably swap track bar bushings. I expected to swap c-bushings and radius arm end bushings, but they look really pretty good.
  • Leaf spring shims. The new WH springs made the pinion angle steeper, it's ok, but I know shims will only help
Opinions please. I got so much great input (and saw some great rigs) at Super Cel.
Phase II and beyond were going to include:
  • Wire harness- I have a Centech on the shelf- wiring is in better shape than expected with minimal shenanigans by PO
  • Rust repair
    • Floor pans are split at bend to firewall- have a set on the shelf
    • Rockers- they are very thin, especially at the very bottom. They would need to match paint to existing- have a set on the shelf
    • Bottom front of a-pillars- I want to be careful not to disturb paint inspection stamp on driver's a-pillar- I have a set of a-pillar front panels
    • Inner aprons (typically bad) and kick panels (minimal rust but it's there)- probably the most difficult/invasive job
  • Power steering- I have almost everything except some parts to build a collapsible lower steering shaft
    • The steering isn't as difficult as I expected.
  • Roll bar & 3 point shoulder belts- I really don't like lap belts from a safety aspect. I did 10 years in autobody & paint and realized how uncrashworthy these trucks are. I have an old Smittybuilt roll bar that would keep the 80s build look and allow a 3 point belt
  • Interior
    • I have the upholstery material and someone lined up to make/install the seat covers
    • New dash pad- I have one on the shelf
    • Headliner- picked up a new one from WH at Super Cel
    • Wiper cover & visors- have "patina" ones on the shelf
    • Carpet (tan)
After the Super Cel I'm reconsidering a lot of this list. I got so many positive reactions to the condition and look of the truck I'm reevaluating most the list. The rust and interior (especially the carpet) were received with great enthusiasm and many said leave it the way it is.
  • Rust repair- The truck really won't see much moisture (certainly no snow) and won't get too many miles so the rust shouldn't really progress. The truck is super square, doors open and close great and body gaps are excellent, except the hood due to some damage. The carpet may be ruined if I do the front pans (it's really glued down). I'm not worried about doing the rust repair and paint, it's actually what I did for a living for 10 years. I know a guy who can custom mix/match the paint (I'm colorblind so I'll excuse myself from the process).
  • Power steering- Not as big a deal as I expected but steering and shifting the 3 speed at low speeds takes a bit of coordination & strength.
  • Interior- see possible carpet damage above, seats aren't terrible but I'm sure the deterioration will accelerate with use, dash pad is badly blown up, but not a real problem. All of the interior "issues" fit the patina/survivor look perfectly and it's all growing on me.
Market value would probably lean towards fixing all the above. I'm pretty happy (and dyed in the wool EB enthusiasts), with the truck without any of the above. I'm not planning to sell it, but if someone wants to pay off my mortgage I'd consider it. LOL. I'd love to hear what everyone thinks.
 
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SLOWnEASY

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Sep 26, 2022
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San Diego, Ca.
It absolutely helps to have a list. I just sat down and made one for my Bronco since I'm finding I'm forgetting all that I want to do.
One suggestion on your interior. I would say one of the best things I ever did to my interior is I had my cardboard headliner lined like a modern car. It makes a big difference in the road noise coming in as well as it just looks more complete than just an off white piece of cardboard.


Headliner.JPG
 
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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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628
Loc.
Gardnerville, NV
How do I know which vac advance I need? I can't find a part number on the distributor. There is a number cast into it but it's a C8 number, not D2. I haven't pulled the distributor out, but I looked all around as much as possible with a mirror.

Will there even be a physical difference to know I have the right one? From the pics they look identical. There aren't any in stock close to go look at.

If they physically interchange, I'd think the difference is in the advance/retard curves and there is probably no noticeable difference in performance. If the Chineseium part even works at all.

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Chiclassics

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Sep 2, 2025
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253
@Chiclassics they are 3.5" WH springs (springs were used so they have settled) and 33x10.5 tires, rear axle is in the factory location, NOT pushed back 1". The wheels are 15x7 with just under 4" back spacing, it might be 3.75" (I'm not sure where to measure from). The tires do rub on the radius arms before full lock, but it's manageable. I wasn't expecting to go with 33s when I started, but a few here and on FB suggested they will fit. I'm super happy with the look, and I haven't experienced any sheet metal rubbing. I did take it on a dirt road with some "whoops". I didn't bomb the road, but it didn't rub either.
thanks I might try that. I have 30s right now LUBR 3.5inch lift. I have plenty of torque and accleration and needed to size up so wondering 31/33 . Did not know 33s come with 10.5 so Ill try. my wheels i think are 15x8.
After the Super Cel I'm reconsidering a lot of this list. I got so many positive reactions to the condition and look of the truck I'm reevaluating most the list. The rust and interior (especially the carpet) were received with great enthusiasm and many said leave it the way it is.
In my opinion(which my dad always approves haha- he worked on trains all his life ) , the way the car sits mostly stock, I would recommend you to keep interior -carpet and seats as is and make them as functional as possible. If you ever want to sell it, a period correct will equally fetch you same amount as a fully prettied up bronco-but that means full paint job (frame off) and reupholstery and carpets etc. I would steam clean carpets and recondition vinyl on seats(mineral oil / vinegar and linseed oil mix). Can you get to the floor pans from underneath? may be use some metal filler to make them safer i guess(i am no body expert). These stock broncos are becoming more rare these days. People in bronco restoration building bigger badder broncos get a glimmer in their eye when they see a good stock one. They dont want to sell it but keep it, because they know its real deal. They are valuable in SMILES. Hope that gives you some perspective.
 

Chiclassics

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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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I used the Fine Cut Cleaner by hand.

Some suggest only using the glaze as the cleaner does remove some paint. I forgot there was a swirl remover that might have been less aggressive and left a little more paint. I knew the Fine Cut Cleaner was removing paint, but it (and the glaze) was on my shelf and I was too impatient to do the straight glaze process. I tried it but it would have taken forever.

You'll have to decide how careful you want to be vs how much time you want to spend. I always suggest starting with the least aggressive product and work your way up as needed. I don't always follow my own advice. Lol

If you search YouTube for patina paint polish you'll find some experts who do it for a living.

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Rox Crusher

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Chad, I realize all the effort you already did to make it shine so take this with grain of salt or two……..

I‘ve really become a fanboy of ceramic coatings instead of waxes.

you could literally use a strip wash, rinse and dry, and then apply a spray on ceramic that will make it even more awesome and it will last a couple of years.
 
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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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Chad, I realize all the effort you already did to make it shine so take this with grain of salt or two……..

I‘ve really become a fanboy of ceramic coatings instead of waxes.

you could literally use a strip wash, rinse and dry, and then apply a spray on ceramic that will make it even more awesome and it will last a couple of years.
I'll look into that. I haven't seen a ceramic on patina, but I've thought about it as an option. Anything that will keep it from oxidizing would be great. I'm just avoiding clear coating it due to the potential failure leading to a complete repaint (and bodywork associated with that). Thanks
 

Shimmy

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Maple Valley
I'll look into that. I haven't seen a ceramic on patina, but I've thought about it as an option. Anything that will keep it from oxidizing would be great. I'm just avoiding clear coating it due to the potential failure leading to a complete repaint (and bodywork associated with that). Thanks

i'd personally avoid any coating that requires an abrasive to remove. that rules out ceramic coatings. if you aren't driving in the rain or harsh weather your wax should be fine and still offer a conservative protection.

that being said, they do offer a patina type ceramic coating but again i don't see the point vs it being a marketing tactic
 
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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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i'd personally avoid any coating that requires an abrasive to remove. that rules out ceramic coatings. if you aren't driving in the rain or harsh weather your wax should be fine and still offer a conservative protection.

that being said, they do offer a patina type ceramic coating but again i don't see the point vs it being a marketing tactic
Thanks for the heads up. I don't know squat about ceramic coating. I didn't realize it was that tough to remove.

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DirtDonk

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Interesting. But why would you need/want to remove a ceramic coating? Or any other kind of coating for that matter.
Paint touch up perhaps?
 

Chiclassics

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Has anyone used Poppy's patina- I have seen people that do patina restoration use this coat. I think its kind of clear coat but softer? again I am no expert in patina restoration.
 
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gunnibronco

gunnibronco

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I watched a bunch of videos about patina "restoration" but didn't like the idea of scrubbing the paint with comet powder or Scotch Brite pads or even steel wool before applying a coating.

My main concern is not applying something that is "permanent" and if it fails will ruin the existing paint.

I saw a post on a FB page that said one of the products like Poppy's or maybe Shine Juice isn't a clear coat. But I can't remember the details. Boiled linseed oil, Penetrol, WD40, even Zep industrial floor wax were all being used.

When I was reading about more traditional polishing processes it mentioned if the paint retains it's gloss after polish then the paint is stable, if it returns to a dull, oxidized state then there is no "saving" it. Mine seems to be fairly stable. Its been about 6 months since I polished it and it still looks nice. I didn't glaze and wax it until a couple weeks ago. Until I'm 100% confident in a product I'll stick with glaze and wax. I don't see the maintenance being that cumbersome and I know it won't have any negative consequences.

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SLOWnEASY

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Zep floor polish is talked about quite a bit in the RV forums. Apparently it lasts about a year and is easy to just reply over itself to renew. And it can be stripped without damage to the underlying paint if needed or desired. I never thought about it for a smaller vehicle but I guess why not.
 
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