Remedial locking hub question

[SaddleUp]

When loosening the adjusters remember that both sides turn in opposite directions to loosen them. For removing and installing the lock ring a pair of snap ring pliers allow you to get a grip on them normally. If that doesn't work a set of pics can be used to hook behind it to get it loose. When installing the ring back on you normally do not have to adjust the nut. If the pin doesn't line up when you try to put the ring on then pull the ring out and turn it over and then put it back in. (The holes in the ring are aligned specifically so it can be turned over to change the position of them without adjusting the nut) There is enough adjustment back and forth that it will almost always go in one way or the other.

 

[Potshot]

Sorry, but I never drove mine...I kept trying to bleed the brakes and I could see the differance between the fluid shooting out of the rear and the fluid slowly pouring out of the front bleeders. Once all was bled, the peddle felt soft(reallysoft) and would touch the floor.

I used vise-grips tight on the rod about ¼ back from the rear housing and then pry with pry bar-bonk-came right out Chuck

Are you using a proportioning valve of any kind? There's $50 adjustable valve that fits in line and of course a better cast one for more $$, saw both in most of the major EB catalogs...

 

[blazinchuck]

sorry, but no. I may look into that later if I have any issues...but so far I have none.Chuck

 

[Potshot]

Was just wondering. I grabbed one simply because I'm bad (good?) about trying to overdesign. Can't hurt, might help. Wasn't going to break the budget but it seems like it might have been unnecessary.