Removing Transfer Case Cross Member

[Jeff10]

Hey Guys,

I've done some searching; but, I can't come up with what I'm looking for, so I'm hoping that someone here can help.

I installed an Atlas a few years ago. The nuts that were provided to secure the adapter to the Atlas don't work so well at staying tight. The person I contacted at Advanced said he experienced the same problem and used Nylock nuts. So, the plan today was to swap out the nuts.

Easier said than done.

I was in the process of pulling the transfer case cross member so that I have better access to the nuts. (I also want to tighten the bolts that attach the transfer case to the T18.) Having the cross member out of the way will help with both.

I used a jack under the transmission in an attempt to pivot the drive train at the motor mounts... Just enough to get the cross member out. I'm almost certain this is what I have done in the past when pulling transfer cases.

Long story short, the transfer case isn't coming off of the cross member enough to pull the mounts. I'm afraid to try to force it too much.

I'd like to ask first of all if this is an acceptable way of doing this. If it is, I'm wondering what is keeping the assembly from pivoting. I suppose it could be the twin sticks. If not the twin sticks, maybe the driveshafts, which are still attached to the transfer case. (I really wouldn't think there would be a problem with the driveshafts; but, maybe I'm missing something.)

Thanks for any advice you guys might have.

Take Care,

Jeff

 

[72Sport]

Nylok nuts: Nylon has good holding power something close to 180f. After that is no better than a regular nut. The plastic gets soft and takes on the shape of the bolt threads and does nothing. Get some all steel lock nuts to keep things tight or you may be doing the job over in a year or so. Use some anti-seize on the nuts (they may use salt on the roads around you). It must get something close to 200F under the Bronco, close to the a exhaust. Transmission probably sees 150f most of the time. Nyloks are great for keeping license plate bolts tight or just about anything that doesn't see heat.

Don't know anything about an Atlas removal or t-18. Just looked a mine with a stock transfer case looks like everything under there is in the way. You may get enough room by removing the two frame mounts for the cross member and the donuts and drop the cross straight down. After that remove whatever is in the way.

 

[Skiddy]

I would at least remove the drive shafts

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the input.

72Sport - I appreciate the advice. The problem with the steel lockwasher is probably going to be similar to the flange nuts... the adapter is aluminum. I'm not a mechanical engineer; but, I believe that could be part of the problem. I did look at McMaster Carr's website and the nuts are rated for a max temperature of 220. I don't know what the temperture in that area is. I'll put some more thought into your suggestion.

Skiddy - I'll go ahead and to that.

Thanks again for your input. I ended up taking on another project after posting my question, so I'll try to get back to it tomorrow or Tuesday.

Take Care,

Jeff

 

[72Sport]

I wouldn't use steel lock washers on aluminum. I would use star washers and steel self steel locking nuts.

As far as the nuts loosening, the loose nuts maybe just the gaskets compressing over time. I had pulled my engine a long time ago to install a Mustang serpentine system and AC. I had it ready to install and decided to re-torque everything on the front of the engine. I think I torqued it about 8 times over a couple of days before the torque wrench would click before the bolts turned. Now I don't install anything without letting it sit for a couple of days.