I didn't notice any movement at the steering box but the upper bolt of the trac bar definitely had some movement.
Good stuff to find out. Even a tiny bit of movement in the trackbar can lead to some noticeable wandering on the road.
The tires are from 2012 if I'm reading correctly.
I forget how to read the code, but I know it's easy to google and if that's what you did and it indicates 2012, I would at least plan on replacing them eventually. They may be perfectly fine, but do not ignore them as they may very well be a contributing factor in the sketchy ride.
The main reason I was going to do 2.5" instead of 3.5" was to avoid the need to move any lines or go with the drop stuff.
Reasonable plan. And while you don't have to add the drops by traditional standards, in my opinion even 2" is high enough to justify correcting the steering. Too many things change in even that little amount of lift for my tastes.
And we're more particular about how our Broncos handle these days than we were when we were teenagers and treated them like trucks and didn't care about the same things we do now.
So try it as it is now if you want (can't hurt) but if you decide you'd like to fine-tune the driveability a little more you know that the drop arm and bracket are options.
If no drops though, then I would definitely use an adjustable trackbar.
As far as brake hoses and parking brake cables go, you do not "need" them for a 2.5" lift either. Especially if the Bronco is just driving on the street.
However, if you are going to replace the brake hoses between the axles and frame anyway (maybe yours are old, maybe not) then it makes sense to get the longer ones.
A lot has been done to your Bronco obviously, so you might even have longer ones already.
If I should add the drop arm and bracket anyway then 3.5" would be fine by me. Is there any reason to go 3.5" over 2.5"?
I've been looking at the Method Grid wheels (17x8.5) and would like to run 35s. Was also planning on a 1" BL and the gorilla warflares.
Like the others I would also lean towards the lower lift either way, but a 3.5 can still drive very well and look great. But keep in mind your family and how they like climbing into a high truck (or not) and use that as part of your decision for the 2.5 vs 3.5 issue.
It's only one inch, but it does make a difference.
Good pics of the driveshafts and C-bushings by the way. Thanks.
Judging by the pics I'd say you can get away with 7 degree bushings as well, and with either lift that's what you should get. If those are old Rancho bushings (are they black, or red under there?) they are only 4 degrees. If black, they could be any brand and any offset, but if you're going new then go with 7's.
I'd have to say your rear pinion is pointed too high by just a smidgen. Unusual for your setup, but not completely unheard of either. I'd say the typical 6 degree shims would be too much. Maybe something like 2 degree instead?
Or just leave it alone until you find out you have a vibration issue, or a problem with short u-joint life. Otherwise just leave it until you have to do something to the rear end.
But keep the rear pinion angle in mind when you're making these changes, because when you make changes to the rear you can change the pinion angle.
To me, from here, your rear pinion looks to be pointed above the centerline of the driveshaft by just a couple of degrees at the most. It should be pointed down by the same amount. So if it's 2° up now, you would lower it by 4° to achieve 2 degrees down.
The problem is that shims under the leaf springs usually add more than their rating, hence my suggestion for 2° tapered shims for the leaf springs.
But again, wait until you know for sure.
Good luck.
Paul
