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replacing front end bushings question

lasadoor

Full Member
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
421
Loc.
San Diego
I've got a good idea on how to do most of the work replacing the radius arm and C bushings, trac bar bushings and tie-rod dust boots, my question is about removing the front drive shaft. Is this necessary to do the job properly, i assume so but... and do i take it from the transfer case or front differential?

this will be my first major project, can't wait to get started.

you know your on Classicbroncos.com too much when - you get to work early so that you can get online.
 
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lasadoor

lasadoor

Full Member
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
421
Loc.
San Diego
thanks for the info. i'm aware of the cursed lean, i'll mostly likely have more questions once i get started

back to work.
 

73AnneBoleyn

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
1,045
Loc.
Charlotte, NC
did you read the link i posted for you? "Bushings are not fun"? it will help you greatly; it's all about the trials and tribulations i went through when changing mine.

like they said, disconnect the driveshaft at the diff. for that matter, disconnect EVERYTHING that connects the front axle to anything and everything.
 

70_Steve

Old Guy
Joined
Dec 13, 2002
Messages
8,317
Another helpful hint. To reinstall the coils, place the coil cup and lower coil retainer in place, and start the bolts a couple (2, 3, 4) turns. Place the coil on top of the retainer and "screw" the coil spring into place. Then tighten up the two retaining bolts. See the Bronco Tech article (<< to the left<<) for hits on how to install the upper coil retainer.
 
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lasadoor

lasadoor

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May 22, 2008
Messages
421
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read your post last night, i also flipped through the manuals and talked to some buddies about helping out.
 
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lasadoor

lasadoor

Full Member
Joined
May 22, 2008
Messages
421
Loc.
San Diego
now i'm just waiting on the parts, gives me time to soak all the nuts and bolts and setup a game plan. i think i'll clean up the wiring under the hood too.
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
It's easier taking apart than going back. I've done it myself lots of times but I would get an extra person for the first time. You'll need a floor jack (two is better) and don't get squished!
 

Chief Master Sergeant

Retired U.S. Air Force
Joined
Nov 6, 2002
Messages
5,219
It's easier taking apart than going back. I've done it myself lots of times but I would get an extra person for the first time. You'll need a floor jack (two is better) and don't get squished!

Let me second that...we had one of our Airmen crushed and killed recently when his vehicle fell of the jack. I was fearful the entire time I was installing my lift. It was on jack stands and I had the jack under it as well, but the way it would sway when I had to try to loosen or tighten something scared the shit out of me. BE CAREFUL!
 

73AnneBoleyn

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
1,045
Loc.
Charlotte, NC
i don't know if it would actually help in the event of the front end falling off of the jackstands, but i always put my front two tires on their sides underneath the rockers. in *theory* if the jack fails and the jackstands fail, then maybe the two tires would give me a few inches.

like i said, probably wouldn't work, but it gives me a LITTLE peace of mind while under there! (nothing like a false sense of security! :) )
 

bludorbronc

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Messages
653
When I replace Radius arm bushings I do one side at a time. Jack up front of truck and place 2 stands under frame rails near bumper, use floor jack and remove one tire, with tire off take out bolt holding shock to radius arm,remove top coil retainer,now lower axle end until coil has pressure off it, loosen bottom coil cup bolts( if can't get with wrench use socket,long extension and ratchet thru top of coil),spin coil out (if stuck tap coil with hammer to loosen grip of crud),remove coil cup, jack up axle till level, now take off radius arm nut, now attach come along to end of axle housing and other to end of frame and pull arm from frame mount ,replace bushing ,loosen cable while guideing into mount, install second bushing and tighten to hold bushing in place but not tite yet.Now remove c- bushing bolts and again pull axle forward to remove c-bushing,clean rust and scale and reinstall bushing,loosen cable so axle goes back into position,if not back enough take cable from frame attaching point and attach end to radius arm frame mount and pull axle back and install remaining c-bushing and install bolts just slightly loose(you can also use longer bolts to pull halves together and change them out when close enough). Install cups,coil,jack up axle install retaining clip( sometimes it is easier to put a longer bolt in the top retainer bolt hole and on the outside hole a long punch is used to pull the holes even and if they won't stay take a vise-grip to keep them so you can install bolt),shock, bolt tire on and go to other side.When done with both sides go back and tighten all bolts to spec.Keep come-along handy incase you need to pull body into position when changing trac bar bushings to get frame bolt into hole.
 

73AnneBoleyn

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
1,045
Loc.
Charlotte, NC
bludorbronc, do you ever get a lean doing it your way? the reason most people drop the axle is to make sure that both radius arms are level, therefore reducing the likelihood of getting the lean.
 

bludorbronc

Sr. Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Messages
653
I had my truck since 77 and can't say that I have.If you tighten everything up once it is back on wheels would it not be level,same as dropping it on the floor?
 

73AnneBoleyn

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 6, 2008
Messages
1,045
Loc.
Charlotte, NC
I had my truck since 77 and can't say that I have.If you tighten everything up once it is back on wheels would it not be level,same as dropping it on the floor?

not necessarily. let's see if i can explain this without confusing the issue...
if the degree at which each radius arm is not the same, then when everything is all tightened back up, the axle may drop a little lower on one side, thus causing the lean. the reason people do the whole "rotate the axle to the ground" trick is to make sure that the angle from radius arm end to the axle, straight up to the frame is exactly the same. if it is, there should be no lean.

that said, apparently some people have just tightened everything up and have been fine.
 
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