Replacing Rear Main Seal

[bu66a]

Hey Guys,

Just starting to do some research on this and its looking like it might not be that tough? Mine is leaking pretty good, so its almost embarrassing taking my Bronco places.

I emailed my local shop and he told me it could end up being a $1,000 job. Yikes! I live in Seattle and my garage is tiny so I won't be able to do much at my place. Is this something a buddy and I could do up in his barn? Or is there anyone in the Seattle area who would want to earn some extra cash on doing so?

Its a stock 1970 302 manual transmission. Any help or leads is very much appreciated! Thanks guys

-bu66a

 

[73azbronco]

Not tough at all, just time consuming.

$1000 is right on, 10-12 hrs labor, need to pull tranny, transfer case, flywheel, then reverse. It can be done with simple tools, a rental tranny jack and a few hours a day over four days. Put some plywood on the floor or cardboard.

 

[ahansen_1985]

It can be done in a day.... Pretty easy to do.... Looking at 5-8 hours....


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1966,351,m5od,205....3.5" lift, 2" body, 35's,

 

[Jeff76]

I'm pretty sure you can replace the top rear main by dropping the pan, loosening the crank (slightly-check spec), tapping the old one out and the new one in. Got this info from the Ford shop manual when I was trying to stop my leaks. The bottom part of the rear main is actually part of the pan gasket, and that may be all you actually need to replace...it turns out, this is all I had to replace. I used an asymmetric lift, and had the front axle removed at the time, and it was till a pain in the arse. But it's something that can be done on a drive up ramp in the driveway...

 

[patterdale]

It should not take too much to do. The pan has to come down and the rear main cap comes off. If it is a rope seal the crank has to be dropped a bit. If it is a split rubber seal you should be able to drive it out with a thin punch and slide the new one in. No need to remove any driveline parts unless it is a newer design that has a one piece seal. Being a stock 70 302 I'm sure it is the rope type seal. There may be an option to replace it with a split rubber seal. Do a little more research before you dive in. I believe the one piece seal came when the engines were designated 5.0 instead of 302 in the 80's.

 

[patterdale]

I'm pretty sure you can replace the top rear main by dropping the pan, loosening the crank (slightly-check spec), tapping the old one out and the new one in. Got this info from the Ford shop manual when I was trying to stop my leaks. The bottom part of the rear main is actually part of the pan gasket, and that may be all you actually need to replace...it turns out, this is all I had to replace. I used an asymmetric lift, and had the front axle removed at the time, and it was till a pain in the arse. But it's something that can be done on a drive up ramp in the driveway...

The bottom half is not part of the pan gasket. It is inside of the main cap. The pan gasket seals on the out side of the main cap.

 

[Jeff76]

The bottom half is not part of the pan gasket. It is inside of the main cap. The pan gasket seals on the out side of the main cap.

Ahh, Thanks!

 

[73azbronco]

Good point, I'm thinking one peice seal, if it's old they have tools for under $10 at NAPA to pull old seal with just oil pan off. Might want to loosen engine mounts to get engine raised.

 

[TDubya]

It's been over ten years, but I know I didn't have to do any more than drop the pan to change the rear main seal on my 75. It was a two piece seal and was relatively easy to replace. Couple of hours after work in my garage.