Replacing steering linkages on 73

[miket]

In looking at the rods and ends on the front of my 73, I see I will have to replace it all. In some prelim. investigation it appears the main rod is expensive and somewhat hard to come by. Rather than replacing stock, whats the recommendation for a full tie rod/ends/drag link replacement?

 

[DirtDonk]

Lots of options for once miket. Luckily, or unluckly as the case may be, since they cost more in the beginning too sometimes.
But you're on the right track. Getting a whole new linkage where just the rod ends are replaceable, rather than the long tie-rod entirely each time you want to replace the driver's side. Or an entire draglink when just an end is worn out.

To keep mostly stock layouts and sizes though, we sell a setup like this:
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tie_Rod_Drag_Link_3way_Adjustable_6675yr
It fits the stock tapered holes in your steering and pitman arms, but with full adjustment capability and larger diameter rod stock.
The benefit of spending a little more now is not only that you can now center your steering with the adjustable draglink, but that in the future you only have to replace the individual ends.

We're working on getting images of the exact parts now (rather than relying on the line-drawings you see there) because there are some variations especially in the draglink where the stabilizer shock mounts. But you get the picture...

There are other options as well, such as "Heim" style rod ends, conversion to GM heavy duty rod ends with custom tubing, and other stuff as well. But this kind of thing is likely the simplest and most basic upgrade these days.

Hope that helps.

Paul

 

[bronconut73]

Paul how much stonger is the gm 1 ton tie rod than your stronger than stock linkage?

 

[DirtDonk]

It'd be hard to quantify with numbers unfortunately.
The tapered stud on the "GM 1-ton" stuff is larger, but I'm not sure if the actual ball-and-socket assembly is larger or not.

The tubing "can" be larger on the custom 1-ton stuff too, but that depends on who's making it. However, I would have to say that most of the installs I've seen have been at least semi-custom and have used pretty massive tubing.

The main weak link in the other systems is the passenger side rod end bending under stress. They're slightly necked-down in size at the end, and some brands are noticeably worse than others when you put them side-by-side. Unfortunately, the draglink is mounted right there at the weakest spot. Adding exponentially more potential stress to that one point.
The GM tapered hole used to attach the draglink was originally slated for a steering stabilizer mount, not a draglink. So making it super stout was never needed originally.
Every one I know using that system has bent at least one of those ends.
It's not usually something that's going to leave you stranded. Just something to hassle with when it happens. Changing toe-in will mess with your handling and tire wear, so it must be corrected before getting back out on the road. That taken care of, most brand's warranties take care of the expense issue.

The other downside to the GM conversion is that it puts the draglink mount at a pure vertical angle. Whereas the original Ford stuff, as well as our conversion bits, are meant to be angled slightly back/up to give a more natural angle to the draglink end.
This angle reduces the "twisting" force put into the tie-rod.

So, I would have to say that in overall strength, the GM conversion has a slight advantage.
In design criteria in keeping more with the Ford design for the EB, I would say ours has a slight advantage.

I know which way I prefer (which only has a little to do with where I work), but also have been thinking about how to make the GM passenger rod end with the correct angle built into it to get rid of that one issue.

Paul

 

[miket]

Lots of options for once miket. Luckily, or unluckly as the case may be, since they cost more in the beginning too sometimes.
But you're on the right track. Getting a whole new linkage where just the rod ends are replaceable, rather than the long tie-rod entirely each time you want to replace the driver's side. Or an entire draglink when just an end is worn out.

To keep mostly stock layouts and sizes though, we sell a setup like this:
http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tie_Rod_Drag_Link_3way_Adjustable_6675yr
It fits the stock tapered holes in your steering and pitman arms, but with full adjustment capability and larger diameter rod stock.
The benefit of spending a little more now is not only that you can now center your steering with the adjustable draglink, but that in the future you only have to replace the individual ends.

We're working on getting images of the exact parts now (rather than relying on the line-drawings you see there) because there are some variations especially in the draglink where the stabilizer shock mounts. But you get the picture...

There are other options as well, such as "Heim" style rod ends, conversion to GM heavy duty rod ends with custom tubing, and other stuff as well. But this kind of thing is likely the simplest and most basic upgrade these days.

Hope that helps.

Paul

Thanks Paul....that's what I was looking for.

 

[Lmfp]

I have a heim setup on my bronco. I wont have any road testing though till next week at the earliest. Picked mine up from bcbroncos on my last trip to the deer lease.