Rewiring questions - Explorer 4G, Mini starter, Elect Pump, R2R dist

[MnCampNHunt]

Hey all - we have learned so much from this forum - so I thought I would tap into the vast knowledge.

Starting to plan a new harness install. Have a '71 carborated 302 (3-in-the tree) with the explorer front dress (4G alt) with a mini starter and ready-to-run (R2R) distributor. Due to the Explorer Serp drive we will need an electric fuel pump (probably a Carter P4070).

Question #1: with the mini starter, we wouldn't need a starter solenoid - thus no "I" terminal from that for a hot 12V during cranking, nor will we have a seperate voltage regulator "I" terminal (due to 4G 130amp upgrade) - does the stock bronco ignition switch keep 12V on the run contact (red/green wire) while the switch is in start/crank position?
[If so then I can wire the coil and fuel pump off the run position without having to use a starter solenoid to give us that "I" terminal. I've read conflicting info, some related to "clean power" for EFI conversions.]

Question #2: Is there any reason to use a bosch type relay to the mini-starters solenoid coil?
[It would take the inrush load of the solenoid off the ignition switch - or do we keep it simple and just fuse from the switch to the solenoid coil]

Question #3: Currently looking at the Rebel Wire harness kits (probably 9+3 or Jegs 14 circuit) due to ability to add on fuse blocks as needed and better control the feeds to each circuit (with modification). Seems like high quality wire and soldered connections - plus more affordable than the $900+ Bronco specific AAW or Painless kits - made in the US too. Any feedback?

Notes: will use a relay and inertia swich for the fuel pump, will upgrade to a volt meter (relacing the amp meter), all LED lighting including dash indicators, 2-stage Liberty cooling fan, power/heated seats (Minnesota) = 5 or more relay circuits.

 

[Jdgephar]

The I terminal powers the ignition during cranking, and also bypasses the resistor wire for better voltage at the coil to start. Easiest just to keep the factory solenoid and move the starter wires on the posts appropriately.

I would keep also keep the solenoid to prevent starter run-on. Ford kept it with the ministarters too.

There's nothing wrong with keeping the ammeter, as long as you don't overload the wire with too much current. Which means you can't allow the alternator power to go through that wire. Basically, it will only show how much current draw you are using, never a charge. You can add any other voltmeter you want then (plug one into the cig lighter, for example). However, swapping the ammeter for voltage is a nice, clean look too.

While you have the dash apart, here's what I did for the cluster lights. So much better...



Sent from my SM-S916U using Tapatalk

 

[bronco italiano]

Where did you get the cluster lighting kit? Slick

 

[Jdgephar]

Where did you get the cluster lighting kit? Slick

It's just a piece of leftover white LED strip I had laying around. I spliced it into the wire for the stock bulb holder. For $15-$20 on Amazon, you can even get a multi-color LED strip with a remote and have any color you want for the backlight.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LB9HK2/?tag=classicbroncos-20

 

[ba123]

Hey all - we have learned so much from this forum - so I thought I would tap into the vast knowledge.

Starting to plan a new harness install. Have a '71 carborated 302 (3-in-the tree) with the explorer front dress (4G alt) with a mini starter and ready-to-run (R2R) distributor. Due to the Explorer Serp drive we will need an electric fuel pump (probably a Carter P4070).

Question #1: with the mini starter, we wouldn't need a starter solenoid - thus no "I" terminal from that for a hot 12V during cranking, nor will we have a seperate voltage regulator "I" terminal (due to 4G 130amp upgrade) - does the stock bronco ignition switch keep 12V on the run contact (red/green wire) while the switch is in start/crank position?
[If so then I can wire the coil and fuel pump off the run position without having to use a starter solenoid to give us that "I" terminal. I've read conflicting info, some related to "clean power" for EFI conversions.]

Question #2: Is there any reason to use a bosch type relay to the mini-starters solenoid coil?
[It would take the inrush load of the solenoid off the ignition switch - or do we keep it simple and just fuse from the switch to the solenoid coil]

Question #3: Currently looking at the Rebel Wire harness kits (probably 9+3 or Jegs 14 circuit) due to ability to add on fuse blocks as needed and better control the feeds to each circuit (with modification). Seems like high quality wire and soldered connections - plus more affordable than the $900+ Bronco specific AAW or Painless kits - made in the US too. Any feedback?

Notes: will use a relay and inertia swich for the fuel pump, will upgrade to a volt meter (relacing the amp meter), all LED lighting including dash indicators, 2-stage Liberty cooling fan, power/heated seats (Minnesota) = 5 or more relay circuits.

1) lots of people will tell you to leave the solenoid, but I think it's ugly and did the same. You don't need it AS LONG AS you have an ignition that can support the level of amps your start wire requires. I got the Powermaster mini starter and the thing rocks so far. My wire is direct from my push button start system to the starter. My start button system can handle up to 40 amps and my integrated starter solenoid requires 30, so perfect. I don't know what the stock ignition ket can handle.

2) if the switch can't hand;e the amps, then yes. You can use a regular old relay, which is what I would have done in that scenario.

3) Go with whatever makes the most sense to you, but just plan everything out first.

check out my build thread, you might find some ideas or even things you don't like and want to do differently (link below).

 

[Jdgephar]

1) lots of people will tell you to leave the solenoid, but I think it's ugly and did the same. You don't need it AS LONG AS you have an ignition that can support the level of amps your start wire requires. I got the Powermaster mini starter and the thing rocks so far. My wire is direct from my push button start system to the starter. My start button system can handle up to 40 amps and my integrated starter solenoid requires 30, so perfect. I don't know what the stock ignition ket can handle.

2) if the switch can't hand;e the amps, then yes. You can use a regular old relay, which is what I would have done in that scenario.

3) Go with whatever makes the most sense to you, but just plan everything out first.

check out my build thread, you might find some ideas or even things you don't like and want to do differently (link below).

Just remember your ignition coil also needs power from somewhere with the key in the Start position.

 

[MnCampNHunt]

JD - I like the LED strip light method on the instrument cluster. While back I bought LED bulbs for in there, but want sure how the color or intensity might work out - nice to have an alternative.

BA123 - read your build thread - fun couple of hours - great stuff!

So undetermined yet on how we will go - thinking I'll at least have a relay to the mini starter solenoid teminal. Will have to test the ignition switch to see if it retains power to the run terminal while in the crank position. If not I'll have to use a relay to keep power to the coil and fuel pump during crank. Prefer to not have a "starter relay" on the fender with the extra heavy wires and connections.