Rivnuts / Nutserts for hard top

[PGreenlawMD]

As fall approaches I again dread having to load the hardtop back on the bronco. Fighting with all those nuts/bolts is a pain in the a@$. Because of my rear quarter panels from Bronco Hut with speakers, upholstery, etc, it adds a lot of work to this project to take everything down and then connect it back up again.

I saw on Cloud 9 Classics a bronco that had been sold, but one thing that caught my eye were outserts/rivnets placed in the sheet metal back quarters for much easier transfer of the hardtop

Once in place this would also seem to allow the rear quarter panels/speakers etc to stay in place full time

Any experience with these rivnuts/nutserts for hardtops or similar constructions?

Thanks
Paul

 

[BroncoBrad]

How about tacking nuts on the underside of the rails?

 

[PGreenlawMD]

How about tacking nuts on the underside of the rails?

Thanks for the suggestion

My assumption is by "tacking" you mean "welding?'
I don't have welding skills/equipment and would not want to risk the paint. Some of the more forward and rear holes are very well hidden and would be very hard to get lined up perfectly into place even if considering some type of epoxy based fixative.

I like the idea of the rivnuts because they can be put antegrade from the top side and not have to do anything to the underside of the panels again.

Stainless rivnuts are also available that would be a nice touch to "clean up" the mounting holes for the hardtop. I typically put the bolts, washers, and nuts back into place with a rubber grommet with the hard top off to try to minimize any risk of water getting into the speakers (marine, but why take chances)

 

[Broncobowsher]

Rivnuts are used all over the place. They have been factory attachment points for over a decade I know of. They do work very well. But I have seen a few issues in the past. If the rivnut doesn't grab the sheet metal well they tend to spin. Usually the hardest one to access the back side of. And always when trying to remove the bolt from the rivnut. Don't overdrill the mounting hole. I have only used small ones, typically 6mm, maybe ¼" max. The hand setting tool gets questionable even at those sizes. I have not used the hydraulic setting tool but if it is anything like my hydraulic flaring tool then it would be a good tool to get. Rivnuts do sit a little proud of the body panel. Need to consider that as well. How will that interact with the gasket. I wonder if they make a dimpling die to make a pocket for the rivnut?

As for tack welding nuts on the back side. Sure so long as you don't mind burning up the paint job on the top side.

 

[PGreenlawMD]

Rivnuts are used all over the place. They have been factory attachment points for over a decade I know of. They do work very well. But I have seen a few issues in the past. If the rivnut doesn't grab the sheet metal well they tend to spin. Usually the hardest one to access the back side of. And always when trying to remove the bolt from the rivnut. Don't overdrill the mounting hole. I have only used small ones, typically 6mm, maybe ¼" max. The hand setting tool gets questionable even at those sizes. I have not used the hydraulic setting tool but if it is anything like my hydraulic flaring tool then it would be a good tool to get. Rivnuts do sit a little proud of the body panel. Need to consider that as well. How will that interact with the gasket. I wonder if they make a dimpling die to make a pocket for the rivnut?

As for tack welding nuts on the back side. Sure so long as you don't mind burning up the paint job on the top side.

Thanks for the post

To try to minimize risk of the rivnut turning, would there be any benefit to using some adhesive, such as loctite, when inserting into the sheet metal hole?

 

[Tom Dummer]

http://www.broncofix.com/viewtopic.php?t=261593

 

[PGreenlawMD]

http://www.broncofix.com/viewtopic.php?t=261593

Awesome. Thanks

Green Loctite it is then!

 

[TN1776]

Pay attention to the material thickness that the rivnut is designed to compress onto. Too thin and you'll end up with a spinner. I have seen people stack a washer underneath the bed rail and compress the rivnut onto it plus the body sheet metal. Or just get rivnuts designed for thin sheet metal...

 

[PGreenlawMD]

Pay attention to the material thickness that the rivnut is designed to compress onto. Too thin and you'll end up with a spinner. I have seen people stack a washer underneath the bed rail and compress the rivnut onto it plus the body sheet metal. Or just get rivnuts designed for thin sheet metal...

Definitely going to trial with some comparable sheet first. Should be easy enough to add some washers below even if I have to split them into half washers around the larger diameter rivnut.

 

[Attac]

PGreenlawMD
I was a Heavy structure Mechanic For Grumman Building Military aircraft for 10 yrs.
I learned to use the coolest fasteners while working there, many I have used on my Bronco Build. They make countersunk fasteners as well as dimpling dies when you don't want to lose any of the integrity/thickness of the attach metal When done properly no other glue should be needed. Some are splined so that they will not spin but as others said you must get the ones for the thickness you are attaching to. One little trick is to get a size longer than you need and place a floorboard washer on the back side before you pull it. Then it gives you a little more structure around the hole. If you dimple the hole they also make dimpled washers you can put on the backside.
The best way to dimple is with an air squeeze style riveter for solid rivets. They sell dimple dies that fit in the jaws.
Another idea is to use a nut plate that you can install with pull rivets.
Hope this helps.
Chuck

* Duh.... I just saw the washer thing was right above my post...

 

[Galt72]

I got this idea from another build here. This is what I'm going to use.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/38138?term=weld+nuts&pageno=2

 

[RV77]

I have thought about using 3/16" flat stock,cut to length and put it underneath the rail,mark the holes,drill them one size bigger and then weld nuts.

Paint and enjoy

 

[Greg_B]

I have thought about using 3/16" flat stock,cut to length and put it underneath the rail,mark the holes,drill them one size bigger and then weld nuts.

Paint and enjoy

I did something similar. I just marked all the holes on a piece of 5/16 flat stock. Drilled and tapped the holes and pop riveted in place.

Also... I think I have a lot of 1/4 -20 and 3/8-16 riv nuts I would sell cheap if you need them.

Greg

 

[1971BroncoSport]

These worked well (requires installation tool that is a link on the page)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=yqq9r6