RuffStuff sterling disc brake kit

[AxlesUp]

Just thought i would post some pics of what the thanksgiving fairy brought me!

May be a while before i get it mounted up and plumbed in since i am starting from scratch for the rear brakes. I went ahead and mocked them up and everything seems to fit good!

Have to say they are massive and heavy as can be. talking about abusing the USPS flat rate box LoL!!!!!!

i'm thinking i should paint the brackets and maybe the calipers and rotor hats before i install it? anyone have a preference on a proportioning valve?

 

[DirtDonk]

I would definitely paint the surfaces exposed to the weather. If you like the natural cast-iron look, you could either clear coat it or use one of the several "cast-iron" color paints. Eastwood and Duplicolor both have them I think.
Or the color of your choice too of course. I just went flat black on the brake stuff on one of my cars because it was handy. Didn't really think I'd like it but it really looked great. Still does.

I always paint the edge of the rotors too, as far down the vents as I can reasonably get. Even along the sides where the pads won't hit. If I get a little in the friction area, no big deal as it will wear off with the first brake event or two.
Don't like to get too much, or too thick of paint where the pads will be of course, but a little bit doesn't hurt anything. And it looks good rather than rusty bare steel.

Paul

 

[Justafordguy]

Are these much different/better than the disc setup that comes on a Sterling?

 

[Apogee]

Are these much different/better than the disc setup that comes on a Sterling?

I assumed he had an earlier Sterling 10.25" unit with drum brakes, as those were the only ones I'm aware of that had the 8x6.5 wheel pattern. The later 10.5" models came with disc brakes, but also had the 8x170mm wheel pattern IIRC.

Those brakes definitely look beefy. What are you running for front brakes? Any concern about front/rear bias?

 

[AxlesUp]

i have a front Dana 60 out of a 93 so the front brakes are massive as well! I likely will need a proportioning valve. 95% of all cars have a prop valve of some kind can't imagine i'll get that lucky..

Apogee is right on about the axle!

Thanks Paul i would't have thought to paint the edge of the rotors.

 

[AxlesUp]

Got one side mounted up today. my flanges were a little bent up so i had to sledge them a little. other than that the kit went on easy as pie.

my studs were all mismatched and beat up so i put new ones in. got to use a new tool:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ETUD22/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that thing is amazing! made installing the new studs ez breezy!

 

[Justafordguy]

Lookin good, you should have no problem stopping that thing now.

 

[DirtDonk]

Back to the proportioning valve question, with a rig like yours is set up, I would only use a manually adjustable valve. On the rear only of course.
Reason I say the manual one would be better is that your truck no longer has anything even remotely resembling a factory balance. Nor is it likely to respond as well to the factory bias settings of a stock type.
Not that you couldn't have nailed it right on the money of course, but the chances are pretty slim with this setup I would think.

Besides, while I would imagine all your hard lines are going to be new and semi-custom, plumbing is likely simpler when you need to rig something up in one circuit only.

Paul

 

[AxlesUp]

the rear lines will be all new. i bought a roll of 3/16" copper nickle line. just waiting on some gift cards(tools=best use of cc miles ever) to buy the flaring tool:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TN15E...=UTF8&colid=8NQRQEH1ETV4&coliid=IKQSN104JYTFI

picked out this proportioning valve:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EANSPF...UTF8&colid=8NQRQEH1ETV4&coliid=I1DMX4N8B5IH13

i'm a little curious how the prop valve is going to behave with the hydroboost since the hydroboost puts out double the psi of a conventional braking system. i haven't seen any prop valves rated for 2000 psi.


also not really sure what i'm going to use for the flex line. really don't want to spend $50 on some pointlessly shiney line.

i found this earls speed flex line. i have about 12"s between the frame and the axle where the factory lines attached. so i need at least an 18" line. this one is 24"s:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN5I7...g=UTF8&colid=8NQRQEH1ETV4&coliid=ITNUVZWSQPDO

anyone have any part numbers or ideas of what models to look at for 3/16" factory rubber brake lines with enough length to work i would love to hear about it.