• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Running better w/o vacuum hooked to distributor?

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,483
Oh, and perhaps the mechanical portion of your vacuum advance is worn out and loose? That could explain at least some of why your rod and plate move back part of the way.
Likely not the only thing at work here, but it's one possibility at least.

Paul
 

broncnaz

Bronco Guru
Joined
May 22, 2003
Messages
24,341
The breaker plate will have more travel than the vacuum advance does. Although a actual vacuum will pull it farther than my method of testing will as there will be some air left in the diaphram housing and you cant make up for that my test was only to test to see if the diaphram is in good shape or not. Most vacuum advances give around 10-12 degrees advance at the dizzy which is 20-24 degrees at the crank.
 
OP
OP
Dave_in_Texas

Dave_in_Texas

Jr. Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2006
Messages
219
Loc.
Denton, TX
One other tid bit of info I forgot to mention. While I do still have vacuum at idle, when I rev the engine, the vacuum drops drastically and goes to zero.

Does info make sense to ya'll?

Dave
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
49,483
Yes, that's what vacuum does. And exactly why most setups hate to run on full manifold vacuum.
As you open the throttle, vacuum signals naturally drop. Sometimes precipitously. The faster and farther you open, the lower it drops, until things equalize and your engine can pull more vacuum again.
Under very little load, such as level ground or just siting there, your vacuum will be relatively high. Under more load, such as going up a hill or towing a heavy load, the throttle blades are open farther and vacuum is lower.

The same theory holds true for ported vacuum of course, but it's modified by the port's location in the throttle bores. At low idle, there is zero vacuum. This is where you set the base timing. Just as you crack the throttle, instead of losing signal from it's max, you actually gain signal from zero to whatever. Not going to be full vacuum usually, but the initial spike is still fairly high and helps you accelerate and avoid bogging.
You still lose some signal as you push harder on the throttle, but that's perfect, as you want the ignition timing to fall back a bit from it's max vacuum-assist point, to avoid pinging.

Best thing for you would be to figure out why that port has full vacuum signal, or find another port that bleeds in from higher up in the throttle bore.
If you're able to remove the carb, you can trace where each port gets it's signal. Anything below the blades is full manifold vacuum all the time. Anything above them at idle is "ported".
Short of removing the carb, at least peer down the bores with a flashlight and look into each bore to see if you can see a slot (it's a transition slot you're looking for, rather than a single hole) and find out where it is in relation to the blades.
And verify too, that, with the choke all the way open, and the idle speed screw unscrewed to the point it's not touching the throttle lever, your throttle blades are closing literally all the way down so that there is zero gap on either side of the blade and the bore.
Something could be hanging them up and you're basing your idle on a falsely high setting.

Paul
 
Top