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Has anyone use Rust Bullet inhibitor and their blackshell coating to paint their plate bumpers and cages?. Need as much input as possible, thanks in advance
Rust bullet is a lot like POR right? I'm thinking of doing POR 15 with the Gloss Black top coat on my bumpers. The biggest drawback I see is touch up will be a pain.
From what i know, rust bullet and por 15, are pretty much the same product. I think they are even made by the same company, what i read somewhere, but could be wrong.
I'm going to try the gray coating, then the black to top coat it.
Will a quart of each be enough to cover:
a family cage
a rear protofab bumper w/tire carrier
and a Logans Metal Products Bronco bumper?
The rust bullet literature says that a "quart will cover 50 square feet applied twice".Thanks.
I used the process you are talking about to coat my frame. I used a 3" foam roller and some disposable brushes. It came out beautiful. It was super glossy black and had a slight hammered finish when it was done. no brush marks at all. As Hoochdog said I did have a couple of chip issues when I had to hammer a bolt through a hole or when I was trying to get a bolt to thread into the frame. I had to beat the new leaf spring bushings into place on the frame to get them to line up and I missed once and hit the frame braket and it chipped. Goes to show how hard of a coating it is. Reagular impacts like just setting the body in place before the bushings were there have had little effect on it as far as I can tell. I like it enough that I plan on useing it on my bumpers when I get some. My advice is to let them get some surface rust on them first as that will etch up the metal and give it better bite. There was no difference in the finnished product of the rusty areas or the clean areas I tried anyway. POR uses a metal etcher for clean metal and it too will stick beter to surface rusted metal. I also coated some new pieces with the rust bullet and it chipped easier on them cause they were too clean and I didn't sand them with a corse enough sand papper. I was able to repair the chips fairly easily by sanding down the area around the chips and it smothed up quite nicely and the touch up matched just fine. as far as coverage... the black shell will cover twice as much as the silver. To do an EB frame I almost made the recommended 2 coats of silver with 1 quart. The black covers so good you only need to do one coat of that and I had about a third of the quart left over (I also double black coated the small area that didn't get the double coat of silver). I personally think that one coat of silver and one coat of black would have been plenty as the black shell was actually a third coat in my case and leveled out any roughness in the silver.
Other suggestions... With the silver...The stuff dries quick... you wont be washing anything out. If it's on your skin get it off fast. It didn't burn or anything but if I didn't get it off in 5 minutes it was there for 5 days. Don't try to go back over an area you have already painted till It has dried enough... It will stick to itself so bad that it roughes up the original coat and will be hard to get smooth. Work fast so that you are allways working with a wet edge.
With the Black Shell... It's a lot more forgiving.. doesn't dry as fast (but fast enough) This coat will flow out much better and leave a very glossy look.
I used a roller for both and don't really see any need to try and spray this stuff. If you try to spray the silver you can probbably kiss your sprayer goodbuy.
Thought of something else. I said that it wasn't too hard to touch up but remember this stuff has a short shelf life when opened and the can you use now probably wont be good a year later when you just want to touch it up. This stuff is pretty expensive if you would need to buy a new can or two everytime you only needed a little for touch up. I don't see rocks that much and will probably not need to touch up very often so I'm sticking to my plan to use them on my bumpers, but I havent found a paint or coating (even powdercoating) that will hold up long skiding over granite. I like the touch up pens that you find at the auto parts store in all of the OEM colors and that will probably be enough for me.
Definatly the por if it is exposed to sun light, not sure if it is not exposed. They say you dont need to if it is not exposed, but i have never read anything saying yea or nea on that from a user. I am curious about that.