SBF to 6r80 Speed Gems Adapter w/ Atlas

[Yeller]

I can’t speak for the latest greatest 40 spline unit, I’ve not had experience with it, I’m gun shy from the past. Spent way to many nights rebuilding and/or replacing 35 spline units. If they live fantastic I just can’t verify.

Even Grizzly and Detroits have limitations where they don’t work. In high HP, high velocity situations they are bad about freewheeling when enough inertia is at play. Doing hill killing or snow bashing are prime examples of 1 wheel unlocking and being an anchor. I’ve only personally experienced it in a U4 car doing hill events. Went to spools and never looked back.

 

[nvrstuk]

Glad you guys have brought this up again. I talked to somebody there at GW and I can't remember his name but we discussed GW 10" R&P 3 different times about using their product for my applications after I'd blown up my 2nd High 9 rear end.

Longevity is exactly what he said I probably would not get out of it. Takes abuse like Steve said over and over again however he said I would probably be very lucky to get 25, 000 miles and then for only $6000 I could replace it again lol

So $6K rear in 5.38's, I'd have to change my frt since I run 5.13 so for $12K UNsponsored dollars I would have had to put another 35spline ARB in and I wouldn't do that unless it was the mega-dollar comp unit.

All this was waaay too rich for my blood.

 

[nvrstuk]

All I heard when I was researching ARB's comp unit was that I hopefully couldn't "blow it up", I talked with ARB about the comp unit, like you said, they claim it's somewhere close to 3x stronger...

I'm a 14 bolt convert!!! It was easier to overcome the need for a workable driveshaft angles than spend close to $18K to buy GW frt and rear a new Comp ARB and everything that goes with it... easy choice, really easy! lol

IMHO, I wouldn't touch a std 35 spline ARB unit. I've only grenaded one but they aren't cheap.

 

[hossbronco]

After doing a little more research, I believe these gears are lower life because they use 9310, which is stronger for short term usage (shock loads), but has wear characteristics that reduce the life span.

 

[Yeller]

Something else to consider. 40 spline axles are really hard on ring and pinions, ujoints and transmissions. Unless your rock bouncing or running a trophy truck they are more of a liability than a benefit. They are heavy enough that they don’t torsion soaking up shock load. In my opinion 35 spline 300M is a better choice. I believe to successfully run 40 spline in a full out application you need that 9310 material to survive.

 

[nvrstuk]

hossbronco- thanks for doing this additional research. It backs up why they didn't recommend these gears for my use.

Hope you find another way to go that works for ya.

 

[hossbronco]

nvrstuk, thanks. I called the guys at Gearworks again today. The guy I talked to claimed that US Gear heat treats their 9310 gears differently than other manufacturers, which gives them more life. I’m not sure I totally buy it, but I plan on talking to US Gear once I find a contact number.

Gearworks said that they have seen some still going strong at 50,000 miles, but they don’t know beyond that as there aren’t any out there with more miles yet. They said they’ll see Ultra4 guys that send them in after putting 10,000 miles on them and Gearworks will rebuild the 3rd members and send them back out with the same gears, even multiple times in a row (I think).

I’ve backed off the ledge a little. I’m going to build 609s front and rear, and I’ll put manual hubs in the front. So in a worst case scenario I send my rear gears in every 30,000 miles for a $1,500 refresh. The front should see a lot less wear. If I’m not happy I’ll switch out the 3rd member with something else. I know this isn’t the cheapest or easiest way, but it gets me what I’m looking for.

I’ll keep y’all apprised of anything else I turn up on my research.

 

[Yeller]

Something to consider is 10,000 miles for a U4 is 10,000 race miles, different than just driving.

 

[nvrstuk]

Good info!

 

[badkarma]

I will try to add a build thread here soon.


Atlas 2 Pro case 3.0:1 with 1300 series flange yokes.

I am waiting for my atlas, ordered the speed gems comes and it comes in today. I will be doing the same thing as you just a couple months behind you. I look forward to see how it comes together and any information you can share. Simultaneously i am going with the duff dual sport monster setup with 2 inch body and think I will be going with the VX shifter from Rad design.

 

[hossbronco]

I am waiting for my atlas, ordered the speed gems comes and it comes in today. I will be doing the same thing as you just a couple months behind you. I look forward to see how it comes together and any information you can share. Simultaneously i am going with the duff dual sport monster setup with 2 inch body and think I will be going with the VX shifter from Rad design.

There are a few of us working through this at the same time. I have my Speed Gems adapter, 6R80, and Atlas 2 Pro, but I’m waiting on my engine. I’m likely to go with the VX as well. My build is slow enough I certainly won’t be the first one done.

 

[nvrstuk]

The top of the 6r is "taller" than the 4r all the way to the rear of the trans.

With a 3" body lift the top of my JB Fab transfer case cable shift assembly comes within 1/16" of hitting the top of the 6r when the shifter is mounted in/to the tunnel.

It is tall.

 

[ngsd]

Are you guys picking up used, new or rebuilt 6R80's and where are you sourcing them from?

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

Are you guys picking up used, new or rebuilt 6R80's and where are you sourcing them from?

sourced from car-part.com had it shipped to my door. $1300 shipped with 22k miles

 

[BruiserOutdoors]

I am waiting for my atlas, ordered the speed gems comes and it comes in today. I will be doing the same thing as you just a couple months behind you. I look forward to see how it comes together and any information you can share. Simultaneously i am going with the duff dual sport monster setup with 2 inch body and think I will be going with the VX shifter from Rad design.

lets chat! I am doing duff long arms and am worried about the rear radius mount hitting the atlas. I think I am going to have to weld on the mount or have a custom one made. I have 2" BL and the speed gems fit without modification. Contact me for photos.

My atlas should be here in the next 2-4 weeks but AA has been silent. I ordered in October.


What stage is your build at?

 

[hossbronco]

I bought a cheap Gen 1 6R80 on eBay and swapped it out for a rebuilt Gen 2 from PBH.

 

[jmhend]

nvrstuk, thanks. I called the guys at Gearworks again today. The guy I talked to claimed that US Gear heat treats their 9310 gears differently than other manufacturers, which gives them more life. I’m not sure I totally buy it, but I plan on talking to US Gear once I find a contact number.

Gearworks said that they have seen some still going strong at 50,000 miles, but they don’t know beyond that as there aren’t any out there with more miles yet. They said they’ll see Ultra4 guys that send them in after putting 10,000 miles on them and Gearworks will rebuild the 3rd members and send them back out with the same gears, even multiple times in a row (I think).

I’ve backed off the ledge a little. I’m going to build 609s front and rear, and I’ll put manual hubs in the front. So in a worst case scenario I send my rear gears in every 30,000 miles for a $1,500 refresh. The front should see a lot less wear. If I’m not happy I’ll switch out the 3rd member with something else. I know this isn’t the cheapest or easiest way, but it gets me what I’m looking for.

I’ll keep y’all apprised of anything else I turn up on my research.

Have you looked at Hinmaton's 609 stretched project (I think he calls it project long horse)? He is just running standard ce ter sections if memory serves me correctly.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[nvrstuk]

9" in the front has to run on the back side of the gear. I am tough on parts and it wouldn't last. I had enough problems with blowing 9" parts everywhere including TrueHi9's.

 

[Yeller]

9" in the front has to run on the back side of the gear. I am tough on parts and it wouldn't last. I had enough problems with blowing 9" parts everywhere including TrueHi9's.

Have you looked at Hinmaton's 609 stretched project (I think he calls it project long horse)? He is just running standard ce ter sections if memory serves me correctly.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Hinmaton is using reworked standard housings but they are extensively trussed. Nothing wrong with that approach, I would rather have an a housing that doesn’t require that. The only one of us that frequents here that makes enough power to need a rear truss on a heavy fabricated 9 housing is nvrstuk. From those heavy in the know desert racing 750hp is the tipping point for needing a truss and he’s getting close, even then the issues isn’t up and down but from forward thrust. Same issues with a 14b. I’ve never bent one up, but have bent them from forward thrust.

Nvrstuk, a hi9 would stand up in the front as far as gearing goes but I believe you made the right decision with the 60 due to the beefier differential. I’m impressed with some of the standard 9’s I see living in the front with their use, but I’ve seen plenty of them broken too. Hi9’s hold up fine, pinion twists off before the gears beak in the front.

 

[hossbronco]

Hinmaton is using reworked standard housings but they are extensively trussed. Nothing wrong with that approach, I would rather have an a housing that doesn’t require that. The only one of us that frequents here that makes enough power to need a rear truss on a heavy fabricated 9 housing is nvrstuk. From those heavy in the know desert racing 750hp is the tipping point for needing a truss and he’s getting close, even then the issues isn’t up and down but from forward thrust. Same issues with a 14b. I’ve never bent one up, but have bent them from forward thrust.

Nvrstuk, a hi9 would stand up in the front as far as gearing goes but I believe you made the right decision with the 60 due to the beefier differential. I’m impressed with some of the standard 9’s I see living in the front with their use, but I’ve seen plenty of them broken too. Hi9’s hold up fine, pinion twists off before the gears beak in the front.

I thought a 9 inch differential was stronger than a Dana 60 differential. Isn’t that the whole genius behind 609 axles, besides weight savings? The 9 inch has a smaller ring gear, but the hypoid distance provides greater contact between the ring and pinion. Certainly a 10 inch third member amplifies that difference.