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SBF to 6r80 Speed Gems Adapter w/ Atlas

Yeller

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I thought a 9 inch differential was stronger than a Dana 60 differential. Isn’t that the whole genius behind 609 axles, besides weight savings? The 9 inch has a smaller ring gear, but the hypoid distance provides greater contact between the ring and pinion. Certainly a 10 inch third member amplifies that difference.
in theory the gears are stronger, I have no empirical evidence to disprove that. I can say a standard 9" in the front will break before a Hi9, and opposite in the rear, it has to do with coast vs drive side of the gear, on the drive side of the gear the 28 spline pinion is the weak link as long as the case is strong enough to control the pressures that allow it to flex. Where the 60 shines over a 9" is the differential its self, not the ring and pinion, without a doubt the 60 differential is stronger, you just have to hold the parts in your hand, there is no question which is beefier. As for weight savings, it is marginal at best. To me packaging is where a 609 wins, having built a lot of rigs, a 609 packages easier in the front. It is also proven that weight savings is not enough to really be a concern or advantage one way or the other. Over all we are really splitting hairs over which is superior, they all have good and best characteristics between them. It is not like we are comparing a D30 to a 9 or a 60.
 
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hossbronco

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in theory the gears are stronger, I have no empirical evidence to disprove that. I can say a standard 9" in the front will break before a Hi9, and opposite in the rear, it has to do with coast vs drive side of the gear, on the drive side of the gear the 28 spline pinion is the weak link as long as the case is strong enough to control the pressures that allow it to flex. Where the 60 shines over a 9" is the differential its self, not the ring and pinion, without a doubt the 60 differential is stronger, you just have to hold the parts in your hand, there is no question which is beefier. As for weight savings, it is marginal at best. To me packaging is where a 609 wins, having built a lot of rigs, a 609 packages easier in the front. It is also proven that weight savings is not enough to really be a concern or advantage one way or the other. Over all we are really splitting hairs over which is superior, they all have good and best characteristics between them. It is not like we are comparing a D30 to a 9 or a 60.
Thanks for the input. I really enjoy the discussion, and it’s always nice to get commentary from someone with significant experience. I agree that in stock form the Dana 60 differential is stronger. Thank you for correcting me on that, as I was referring to the whole center section earlier, including ring & pinion, bearing supports, etc. However, with the advent of aftermarket parts it’s certainly more of a discussion. Where the 9 inch struggles is providing enough room for beefy parts, so manufacturers such as ARB have to resort to improved materials to add the strength. I’m not sure why someone would run a 9 inch front axle and not use a high pinion, unless they’re just saving up for one.

In my limited experience, I’d rather run a built 9 inch, front or rear, than a built Dana 60 (though I’d rather pay for a built Dana 60), but I think you’ll get people who fall on both sides of that discussion. Again, I’m just referring to the center section. The Dana 60 is much better when you get to the ends of the axle.
 
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Yeller

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Thanks for the input. I really enjoy the discussion..............

In my limited experience, I’d rather run a built 9 inch, front or rear, than a built Dana 60 (though I’d rather pay for a built Dana 60), but I think you’ll get people who fall on both sides of that discussion. Again, I’m just referring to the center section. The Dana 60 is much better when you get to the ends of the axle.
Thank you, I do too, and if sharing it helps someone make a decision of one part over another they can make it open minded and know what the potential pitfalls or successes are.

I'm with you on the building part, I would build 9" stuff all day long, rarely do I build Dana's, I hire someone for that, its just a whipping as far as I'm concerned. There is a reason we use 60 or even better 70 front parts for steering. Dana 70 is what Reid king pin parts are based off of, happen to know where their original design samples came from...... Dang I'm showing my age LOL. As for rears the Full Float parts are the way to go for sure whether they come from a D60, D70, D80, Sterling, 14 bolt or AAM. The advantage to using 14 bolt over the others is you can use a D60/70 front hub to get any wheel bolt pattern you want and double spline axles, which in theory are stronger than a flanged axle, Although I've never broken a full float flanged axle at the flange, I've sheared the bolts off due to a builder not using appropriate hardware but never the flange. I have broken the flange off of a semi float axle, it does happen, I know of 2 bronco's that have done this on the street, scary. I've also seen 1/2" wheel studs shear on 5x5.5 bolt pattern, scary being chased down by a 40" tire 1/2 full of water thundering its way down a mountain with no vehicle attached to it.

A bit of an undiscussed trivia. In hard core rock crawling its common to see front tires 1/2-3/4's of the way full of water, the added weight in the tire increases its traction considerably. Also adds slow speed stability. Think about how hard it is to roll an axle over with tires on it sideways, now make it 500# heavier with the weight focused on the bottom of the tire, it will be even harder. Its guys doing that stuff that have driven the development of the parts and technology we have today that make our rigs as strong and well performing as they are.

I recently built a semi float 60 for myself and really struggled with the "has to be full float", ultimately I caved and did semi float with SET 20 bearings, and 11" Ford drum brakes. I really wanted to do SET 80 bearings but they are expensive, uncommon and I had to machine my own ends. I was also going to have to do my own brakes to do FF and again, expensive and time consuming with custom parts. The axle I wound up with has off the shelf available virtually anywhere at a reasonable price parts. The only custom part is the axle shafts because it truly is a custom built axle to fit the application and there were no common shafts that would work. It really came down to brakes being the ultimate deciding factor, in this application an 11" drum is all that there was really room for without changing other design factors that I didn't want to change.
 

rcmbronc

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Where would the nest place for getting a front fabricated housing for building a 609 front axle. I have a Camburg in the rear but not sure if that is a way to go in front or others. Would prefer to save some cash.
 

Yeller

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Camburg's are spendy for sure, but great stuff. I've had good luck with Spidertrax and Trail Gear. I know there are a few folks here that have issue with TG as a company but I've had good luck with their parts and as a race team partner. I've used knuckles from both companies with good success, however if I was to run a unit bearing front I'd use late model super duty parts, just simpler with OEM parts. However the fully splined bearings from TG, Currie, Spidertrax or Spidertrax ultimate unit bearings are far superior than bored out designs of old but eliminate the option of using a lockout since the axle splines directly into the bearing. Of course King Pin is king of simple robustness in knuckles.

Since I brought up unit bearings...... There an issue with the one's that use a lockout or drive flange, the spindle is too thin, heavy tire with a heavy side load stretches the spindle allowing the bearing to become loose and it quickly goes downhill from there. The splined units solve this issue by using a spindle that is broached with splines to drive the axle. The added material from the broaching process adds enough material to keep the spindle from stretching. This does not apply to late model SD bearings with 1550 axle ujoints, they are a totally different animal.
 

nvrstuk

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9" can be stronger than a HP60 but it's not just the "hypoid" internet talk that makes a rear end (or in this case frt end) it's EXPENSIVE AS HECK compared to a 14 bolt or HP60. You have to bump up to a Nodular housing, Daytona pinion support, probably better upgrade the pinion like Yeller was mentioning earlier. None of these are cheap but they are strong. Then you need to bump up in axle diameter and spline count...

Can you spell "Ka-ching"?

I am not in anyway saying Hinmaton's frt end won't survive but I did extremely critical expense and strength comparison's between axle/center sections before making my choices again. For most of us money is a factor and it was in my choices.
 

nvrstuk

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I also try to explain things and help toss copious number of alternatives out there so others can have more information and make it harder to make decisions! :)

More than that, I love seeing stuff like Himnaton is building. Waaay cool.
 

Yeller

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Couldn’t agree more. Restorations are neat, and have a huge appreciation of them, no offense to anyone, they are boring, like fine art. Custom builds are interesting like interactive art that require out of the box thinking and if well executed are high functioning usable pieces of art.

I think we’ve crawled a long ways from installing a 6r and atlas lol. Hopefully Bruiseroutdoors isn’t too upset with us.
 

nvrstuk

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I have several buddies that like to go to Car Shows and I follow them 2-3 times/year... I bring my Bronco and I drive up on diagonally placed appr 2' tall blocks JUST so people can see something that doesn't have a stock part left on it. (well almost- dash knobs are) :)
Anyway, I'm probably the only guy that is on his hands and knees looking at suspension and "hard to see parts".... I like creativity & different.
 

hossbronco

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9" can be stronger than a HP60 but it's not just the "hypoid" internet talk that makes a rear end (or in this case frt end) it's EXPENSIVE AS HECK compared to a 14 bolt or HP60. You have to bump up to a Nodular housing, Daytona pinion support, probably better upgrade the pinion like Yeller was mentioning earlier. None of these are cheap but they are strong. Then you need to bump up in axle diameter and spline count...

Can you spell "Ka-ching"?

I am not in anyway saying Hinmaton's frt end won't survive but I did extremely critical expense and strength comparison's between axle/center sections before making my choices again. For most of us money is a factor and it was in my choices.
No doubt to me the Dana 60 was the right fit for your build, especially with the cost criteria.
 

hossbronco

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Couldn’t agree more. Restorations are neat, and have a huge appreciation of them, no offense to anyone, they are boring, like fine art. Custom builds are interesting like interactive art that require out of the box thinking and if well executed are high functioning usable pieces of art.

I think we’ve crawled a long ways from installing a 6r and atlas lol. Hopefully Bruiseroutdoors isn’t too upset with us.
At the risk of suffering BruiserOutdoor’s wrath, I’d love your opinion on my idea to install Dynatrac Dana 60 inner C’s and knuckles on a 4 inch chromoly housing. This would allow me to run manual locking hubs on a 40 spline shaft to prolong the life of the 9310 gears. To do this I’d have to bore out the inner C’s from 3.75 inches. I’d rather have kingpins, but I may have to compromise here to get the manual hubs.
 

Yeller

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If you feel 40 spline is what you what I believe that is your only real option. 40 spline really needs 1550 or larger joints, there isn’t an off the shelf kinkpin that works unless you go to a Rockwell. As for boring to 4” I don’t believe it is a strength issue.
 

hossbronco

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Thanks for the input. I came to some of the same conclusions. The other option is to ditch the manual hub.
 

badkarma

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lets chat! I am doing duff long arms and am worried about the rear radius mount hitting the atlas. I think I am going to have to weld on the mount or have a custom one made. I have 2" BL and the speed gems fit without modification. Contact me for photos.

My atlas should be here in the next 2-4 weeks but AA has been silent. I ordered in October.


What stage is your build at?
I am just ordering parts getting everything purchased, and driving to lick creek restorations in June.
 

nvrstuk

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Hoss-
I have a 6r to sbf adapter if you don't have or end up not wanting the extra inch and a half length or extra rotation mass from the speed gems.

I don't know where you are at with with mocking up motor mounts etc so thought I would just toss sad out there
 
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hossbronco

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Hoss-
I have a 6r to sbf adapter if you don't have or end up not wanting the extra inch and a half length or extra rotation mass from the speed gems.

I don't know where you are at with with mocking up motor mounts etc so thought I would just toss sad out there
I appreciate the offer. However, last August I made the decision to sell my Speed Gems adapter (and 427W) and replace it with the best adapter money can buy: a 7.3L Godzilla. That’s right, it bolts right up, no spacers needed, other than the OEM starter index plate. I’m very satisfied with this change and haven’t looked back! I’m waiting on a few parts to become available, but they’re just around the corner.
 

nvrstuk

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That's right! Sorry- I went back a few posts but didn't go back 3 pages. My bad.

We've even talked about it! lol

You'll love it. Got some great stuff going on with your build- way cool.

I'll read it again tomorrow and like it again then too! :) :) :) :)

Have a great week!
 

hossbronco

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Haha, no worries, there are a ton of great builds to keep track of (including yours). You have a great week and a great Easter as well!
 

badkarma

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Aug 16, 2010
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and the latest update is? @badkarma
Sorry have been assigned details to el paso to help out the absolutely overworked border patrol on the border. From the invasion. All done van Tumblin knocked it out of the park. The 300 mile ride home was awesome. Just saw this glad to answer any questions
 
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