Security Tech Write-up.

[md_lucky_13]

Okay, I promised that I would get this hammered out today, so here it is. I will try to contact Admin and maybe get it to be an official tech-write in the near future, but for now this will have to work.


Here is the dilemma we all face. If you remove the original hard top, you are making it much easier for the bad-guys to get in and steal your stuff. There are thousands of different tricks that can slow or stop a theft, but one of the tried and true methods will always be the car-alarm.

After removing my top, I became paranoid about losing my valuables inside. I have never been afraid of someone actually stealing my bronco; I have several cut-off switches and tricks that would prevent that. However, this would not stop them from stealing my tires and rims (just price a set of 35" MTRs), my stereo, my hi-lift jack and tools, or anything else that isn't permanently bolted into place.


I found a fairly in-expensive security system from JBM technologies, a division called "Bull Dog Security." (www.bulldogsecurity.com). The model I chose was the 7002PRO, which came with remotes, unit, stickers, and all the instructions it would take to install it: http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/proseriesalarmpage.htm


Once receiving the unit, I became fully aware that it had more options then any bronco owner would ever be able to use. However, it had 2 very vital options.
A: A shock sensor, that will chirp the alarm if the vehicle is struck (or, if someone climbs into it looking for a cheap stereo)
B: A "zone sensor" optional addition. This allows you to create "zones" that if the system notices anyone’s hand reaching inside, will chirp the alarm.

The first thing I went to work on was a location for the actual alarm horn. According to their directions, the best location is up high, away from wire cutters and facing down at the ground. Due to this being an off-road application, I wanted to keep it in the cleanest and safest location possible. I chose the driver side fire-wall, where it was safe from heat, water, and most elements:

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/lucky_13_bronco/classicbroncos/alarm/horn.jpg

The next step was to find a good location for the control box. I had plenty of room under the dash on the driver side, so I decided to locate it there. I then dove into the wiring. The directions were very clear, and I had no difficulty wiring in the wires that I would use. Disconnect the battery for a safer install. Don't be afraid if you have a bunch of left-over wires; most of them are for things like "dome-lights" and automatic electric locks.

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/lucky_13_bronco/classicbroncos/alarm/box.jpg

Most of the wires you will use are the following:

1 Constantly "Hot" wire (always has electricity)
1 Key-on hot wire (only has electricity when the key is on)
The Parking Lights wire (for turn signals, they flash when you press the button)
Open door sensor wire. -I will get to this later.

After you have wired in the box, check that everything is working. Wire the antenna in as high as possible, allowing for a further distance and signal:

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/lucky_13_bronco/classicbroncos/alarm/antenna.jpg

Next, wire in your flashing LED. This lets you (and the bad-guys) know that there is an alarm system, and it is armed. A lot of times the simple little flashing light will be enough to scare away potential armature thieves.

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/lucky_13_bronco/classicbroncos/alarm/blinker.jpg

One of the last things I wired in was the door sensing wire. This was the only part of the install that took a little custom fabrication. This until allows for two types of sensors:

1: when the door is open, it gets a shot of 12v (connects to a specified wire)
2: when the door is open, it becomes grounded (connects to a different wire)

The system will not operate properly if one of these is not connected. I chose to use the ground system, because it seemed much easier to create a ground then to create a hot wire.

I went down to Napa and found a small door-opening unit. It was only described in their books as "Bus Style Door Jam Sensor." It is a very simple unit that has two wires coming to it. When the small tap is open, it allows the wires to touch a common copper end, creating a closed circuit. When the tap is pushed close (when you close your door) it separates the wires from the copper, between a plastic tap. This removes the ground. It was about $4 at Napa, and easy to install. Sorry for the blurry picture. The wire to the right of it is the ground:

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/lucky_13_bronco/classicbroncos/alarm/door.jpg

The other wires are for future options, such as remote start (for a $10 relay, I think that would be a cool bragging right for a bronco.. more to come on that in the future), the "zones" described above, and other options.

The system comes with two remotes, pictured here:

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/lucky_13_bronco/classicbroncos/alarm/remote.jpg

Overall, the install was rather easy, and anyone with a little electrical knowledge should have no problem. The key is to take your time, route the wires correctly, and do it right the first time. Lets not forget why we are doing it, there is a lot of money tied up in some simple electronics......

http://www.angelfire.com/extreme4/lucky_13_bronco/classicbroncos/alarm/radio.jpg

Scale of 1-5, I would rate this a 3+. The thought of wiring may intimidate some, but over-all was simple and easy to follow.


Tools Needed:
Alarm system
Test light (or ohm meter, I prefer the simple "light on, light off")
Wire crimping/cutting tools
Wire connectors
Drill
Wire loom

Time Needed:
Approximately 5 hours

 

[md_lucky_13]

Pictures didn't work.. Bummer..

Anywho, if anyone has any questions/thoughts/comments, please feel free.. Whether it is how I did something, or my spelling, or wording, or anything else.. By all means, hack away!

 

[Ryan]

Nice, but why tell the world what is protecting your Bronco ?:?

My 86 Bronco has remote start, windows roll up when I arm it, tailgate window rolls down when I hit the trunk pop buton, Blah blah.

You need EFI for the remote start

 

[teqoso]

I've had my 35's and stereo recently stolen off my truck a few months ago, and that was with an alarm system installed. I'm begininng to like the idea of installing a small shocking device to the front seats that will shock if someone is trying to steal the car or anything out of it. I may be buying the alarm system that pages you if someone is trying to steal the car. Maybe I can set up a video to catch the thieves, then deliver my shocking punishment. The lawyer who is my significant other, will probably tell me that I am in for a whole lot of trouble if someone gets hurt. Short of putting my dogs in the car, the only safe place to put my car is in the garage at home.

Well, at least the insurance company replaced everything!

 

[j.r.nice]

...for those considering shock (electrical), fire, sprays etc. to protect, I suggest you check with your local/state law enforcement agency......may have laws against boobietraps.

Also, consider the liability you might face if you do something that COULD endanger an innocent if someone steals your Bronc, (heaven forbid) and you've got it wired to shut off after 30 secs. and it crashes into a busload of kids.

No, I dont like the "freedoms" thieves are given but it's part of life. Dont jeopardize your life's assets to a law suit.

 

[md_lucky_13]

You need EFI for the remote start

I have EFI.....


I have always beleived that if it is a true pro, there is no way you will stop them from getting what they want. But its not always the pros you have to worry about. This is more for some stupid kid that wants a cheap stereo, and may not know enough to disarm the system. It goes off, and bam, I have him.

I was thinking about doing a huge write-up of different things to do, including a few cut-off switches and what not. Anyone else want to throw in ideas?

 

[flint_knapper]

I like the idea of exacto blades in the rear/sides of the stereo
housing. Let the little bastards bleed.

 

[brian72]

I was thinking about doing a huge write-up of different things to do, including a few cut-off switches and what not. Anyone else want to throw in ideas?

Yes - do this..

do they make locking lug nugs for our big tires?

 

[brewdude]

Yes - do this..

do they make locking lug nugs for our big tires?

Yes they do, but it didn't stop theves from getting my Centerlines and BFG A/Ts off of my old 66.

 

[j.r.nice]

The simple solution to the tire issue is to make sure the alarm has a "shock" or "motion" sensor. They can be optional (plug in type that can be added later) or integral to the alarm processor. When it comes to alarms ....you get what you pay for.......
A crappy alarm which gives "false alarms" (actually called nuisance alarms) is annoying to you, your neighbors, and will quickly become unused. This goes for a decent alarm incorrectly or half-assedly installed.

If you want real protection, spend the extra bucks for an alarm with "rolling code" technology. Many of the "bad guys" have defeat or "black boxes" that emulate your transmitters.

Actually, while not as convenient and trendy, the best alarm you can have is a passive one tied to the ignition switch, with a short delay on the drivers door and immediate on everything else. In other words, no transmitter. The ignition shuts it off. But trying to find one is difficult, but they're out there. Additionally, if you want to keep your original Ford ignition switch (lock) I wouldn't recommend that. They are no protection from a slide hammer. You would need a secondary (hidden) switch or relay, especially on a roadster.

As far as stereo protection (never hurts to have too much), get the stereo with the removeable face plates. Take it off if you're concerned about the neighborhood and lock it in your tuffy box or stick it in your pocket. If you're concerned about protecting remote speakers (the kind in boxes), get (or have made) plastic coated wire rope with end hoops and bolt it to the box and floor/cage/sides. Use large washers to prevent them from being ripped out. Most thieves (the ones your worried about) dont carry big cable and bolt cutters that will cut wire rope. This goes for any other "loose" accessory on your rig, i.e. spare tire, battery box, winch etc.

LOCK YOUR HOOD!! The BEST alarm will do no good if the battery to which you have connected it is unprotected. Locking hood pins are ok, but the best is a wire rope or chain from the hood to the frame or something solid. Want even more protection, build a solid battery box to slow down a drill attack from the inner fender/ grille, hood etc. The name of the game is to slow the thief down and/or send him elsewhere.

BTW, get good insurance. Make sure your ins. co knows about your optional equipment. Once it's stolen it's a moot point.
And remember, if thieves have stolen from you once, expect a return visit. They figure you have insurance and will replace the stuff. What better than to come back 2 months later, do it again and this time get NEW stuff

Well, HTH, gotta go, got house projects on the front burner, but thought I would share some of my experiences.



J. R.