"Special Bearing Puller?!"

[Dantheman365]

I need to re-pack the needle bearings in my ford 3.03 and I'm assuming I need to pull the output/input shaft. The chilton manual refers to a "special bearing puller". This thing might as well be a unicorn because I can't find anything like it.

Anyone have any solutions?

 

[broncodriver99]

Yes there is a special bearing puller for the ford transmissions. It consists of about 5 or 6 different ford specialty tools. It is essentially a long reach puller.

More importantly though.... What needle bearings are you re-packing? Everything in the transmission is lubed by the gear oil.

 

[Dantheman365]

Yes there is a special bearing puller for the ford transmissions. It consists of about 5 or 6 different ford specialty tools. It is essentially a long reach puller.

More importantly though.... What needle bearings are you re-packing? Everything in the transmission is lubed by the gear oil.

The rear shaft popped out during install and the transmission will not shift now. I opened it up and there are needle bearings loose at the bottom of the case. Not sure exactly where they go but, Im assuming I would figure it out once disassembled.

 

[broncodriver99]

Got it. You shouldn't have to remove the output shaft. I have had luck pulling the front bearing retainer(snout) and gently working the whole input shaft and bearing out of the front of the case. This was on 4 speeds but they are essentially the same as the 3 speeds. I did have to remove the cluster shaft and drop the cluster to clear the gear. Not sure if the 3 speeds are the same way. Use a piece of dowel to keep all of the rollers in the cluster from falling out or you will be pulling the whole tranny apart. Once you get the input shaft out the needles go in the "cup" inside of the gear. You then reinstall the input shaft gently. Tapping with a dead blow or brass hammer is ok but no ball peen or carpenter's hammers. Then reinsert the cluster shaft into the cluster gear. It is kind of a pain to get it all aligned and make sure the thrust washers don't fall off of the ends of the cluster.

 

[Dantheman365]

well that is good news. i'll give it a go. thanks

 

[TwoDalesDad]

Of Course ...If the Muffler bearings fall out...You will have to rent a Muffler bearing re-incursion tool......You can find this at any Unicorn Rental...in north america.....LOL

 

[Dantheman365]

followed the chilton directions and I cant drive the roll pin out of the counter shaft. If I try any harder Im afraid im gonna break the punch off in the hole. Gonna have a beer and woosah. Here's what i fished out of the bottom of the case:

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/rcfijhy8vp2lvll/hW7hlOm6Lr

 

[Dantheman365]

14 bearings, 3 tabs and a broken retainer clip

 

[Dantheman365]

Ok, had a break through. Got the input shaft off with a well placed punch blow. I am seeing wherenthe three tabs go and Im assuming the 14 bearings go inside the input shaft, much like the way you pack the bearinngs in the transfer case.
Correct me if im wrong please.

I still have a little wire size c shaped retainer of some sort that is broken. Is this essential?

 

[Dantheman365]

Got the input shaft ready to re-install but I'm having a hell of a time getting it to slide back into place. I get it about a quarter of the way in and I'm stuck.
any tricks?

 

[broncodriver99]

The c spring is definitely essential. It is what holds the 3 synchro dogs in place. There is another one on the other side of the synchro hub. The spring should sit inside of the dogs once they are in place. Since the dogs came out you are going to have to pull the hub and make sure the spring is seated properly on both sides. There should be a section of the outer gear that is machined off for a little clearance. Align that area with the gear on the counter shaft. Other than that it is just finesse.

 

[broncodriver99]

Also, the hub must go on the way it came off, meaning whatever side was pointing towards the input must be pointing that way when reassembled. There is a slight offset that will bind things up if not put back correctly.

 

[Dantheman365]

Makes sense. Found a really helful video on you tube explaining the function of the shift dogs/inserts and the synchro rings ("learn about transmission synchro rings"). Guess this is all a great learning experience. For now im waiting on my rebuild kit from TBP.

Thanks for the help in the mean time

 

[Dantheman365]

So I finally got the rebuild kit and there are no c-springs. Trying to find these things, bur really have no clue what they are called. Gonna check napa, but the napa around here is generally unhelpful.

 

[broncodriver99]

They are part of the synchro kit. Should be the synchro key and spring kit. Will include 2 springs and the 3 dogs.

Should be a WT150-K for the 2/3 kit or a WT299-K1 for the 1st/Rev kit. About $10

Those are numbers for a T150 transmission which should be the same as the stock 3 speed. I would verify their crossover though.

The two places I source everything from are Cobra Transmission 1-800-293-1848 or All-trans 1-800-922-9562.

 

[Dantheman365]

Update- its all back in and running fine. Finding the spring inserts was a pain, but I found some on ebay for a ford 4 spd. They were a little different, but they worked.

Upon attempting to reassemble everything back onto the hub I found that the hub just did not want to slide move through the slider. I did mark the slider and hub prior to disassembly. First gear was alwaysna bit rough to engage so im guessing this was why. To solve the issues i soaked the hub and slider inngear oil for a few hours. I then grabbed a piece of pvc and placed thenhub inside the slider. I then forcefully
worked the hub through the slider in both directions repeatedly, probably 100 or so times, until it slid in
and out more easily. I put it all back together and now the trans shifts smoother than ever. No issues so far.

Thanks for the help, tearing down and reassembling the entire drive train has definitly boosted my confidence.