Spicer Ford locking hubs something missing?

[Got4wd]

I am putting a set of oem ford hubs on my build. All went together well but when locked the dial is loose and drops down about and 1/8 of an inch. Is those normal? When unlocked it’s flush no movement. This is the only part I have seen in some pics and not in others. I can’t even tell where it would go? Against the bearing to keep the spring away from it maybe? I’ve done plenty of warns but this is my first spicer ones. Also if anyone has a perfect set of chrome dial parts I would like nicer ones for the build.

 

[Oldtimer]

I put new actuator knobs in my hubs, and they have a little play, like yours. Re-installed the old ones and no play. Something different in the replacement knob, but could not see what was different.

Against the bearing to keep the spring away from it maybe?

Is that #14, spring retainer plate?

 

[Got4wd]

I put new actuator knobs in my hubs, and they have a little play, like yours. Re-installed the old ones and no play. Something different in the replacement knob, but could not see what was different.



Is that #14, spring retainer plate?

View attachment 965051

Thank you for that pic. I haven’t seen tha one before. But yes that’s were it goes. I will try the old knobs and see if there is less play.

 

[Got4wd]

Put an old original dial in. No difference. Maybe that’s the way they are. Doesn’t seem right. This space between the slug and actuator part is the space that the dial sinks in.

 

[Bruners4]

If the Axle shaft sleeve and ring (#11) and Inner clutch ring (#12) are fully seated, then the Actuating cam body (#9) will not move outward enough to apply pressure on the Actuator knob (#5) to press it firmly against the Retainer knob-hub ring (#3). I've rebuilt mine and have had them apart a couple of times to verify the #11 & #12 tooth engagement. I have full engagement with just a little free play in #5. Also recheck after using the front axle with the hubs locked. I've mixed and matched #11 & #12 parts to get the best inner bushings and tooth engagement.

 

[Got4wd]

If the Axle shaft sleeve and ring (#11) and Inner clutch ring (#12) are fully seated, then the Actuating cam body (#9) will not move outward enough to apply pressure on the Actuator knob (#5) to press it firmly against the Retainer knob-hub ring (#3). I've rebuilt mine and have had them apart a couple of times to verify the #11 & #12 tooth engagement. I have full engagement with just a little free play in #5. Also recheck after using the front axle with the hubs locked. I've mixed and matched #11 & #12 parts to get the best inner bushings and tooth engagement.

Look at my last picture I just posted. There is a gap between there and that won’t change unless there’s something that goes between it to keep it tight or am I missing something?

 

[Bruners4]

I checked all of my spare Face Tooth Design hub parts and they are all alike. The Actuating Cam (#9) is not as tall as the space that it runs on that the two toothed gears (#11 & #12) have machined for it. What you are showing in your picture is the same as mine. I'm going to speculate that Spicer designed it this way to allow for variances and wear.

Here is a Spicer Service Manual that shows both types of the Internal Type of Spicer Manual Hub Loks.

http://www.billavista.com/tech/pdf_index/files/Axles%20and%20Gears/Dana%20Spicer/5330%20Service%20Manual%20Dana-Spicer%20Manual%20Hub%20Lok.pdf

Also, here is a link to some spare parts. https://torqueking.com/collections/spicer-factory-lockout-hubs-1971-1977-ford-d44

 

[Got4wd]

Thank you for all the manuals and pics. That’s a good resource to have. Next time I see a set of hubs like that on an early ford, I’ll see if they are lower when locked in.

 

[DirtDonk]

Something doesn't look right. Well, not so much "right" as much as the way I remember it.
Can you separate the pieces you're showing in post #4 and take another pic?

Thanks

Paul

 

[Got4wd]

Here are the parts

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks. Now I can see what the assembly in the last pic includes. The top ring with the two notches was throwing me off from that angle. It just looked weird.
In the past I've seen plenty of the red knobs that were "pushable" a certain amount. Some very little, and some more like yours.
I can't say it's normal or common, but it's not unheard of.

Paul

 

[dmoses42]

Do you have the pressure spring (#13)? It's not pictured.

 

[Got4wd]

Do you have the pressure spring (#13)? It's not pictured.

Yes that’s in there. The pics I took are the other side out. I just don’t like that way they operate and loose when engaged.

 

[gr8scott]

I can’t even tell where it would go? Against the bearing

Yes.