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Spot weld drill bits?

admin

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Any thoughts on these? I've never used them before.

From the Eastwood.com site I see there are 2 sizes, 3/8" and 1/2". Should I get them both? Any better sources for them then Eastwood? Shipping is a bit much.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...temID=1148&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=spot

p618.jpg
 

tonto

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Oct 16, 2001
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You should be able to find them local to you, try an auto body paint & supply shop thats where I got mine.
The ones I got are like a 3/8" mini hole saw with a spring loaded point in the middle, I think the one you showed the picture of would work better than the ones I got.
Francois.
 

Blue71

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Aug 27, 2001
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I used the one like Tonto was describing. I cut several hundred spot welds with them. I went through a few, but they are cheaper than the one in the picture. I got mine at Northern Tool if you have one...they came two in a pack, One was like 3/8 and the other like a 1/2 possibly. They are like a small hole saw. IF you break the teeth off of one side..you can remove it, flip it over and continue . I got my refills at NAPA. I think the refills came 3 to a pack and they are double sided also. I think they were like 12.00 for the 3 Pk. Never used one like the ones from Eastwood. If you get one...let me know how they work and how long they last.

Good Luck,

Blue71
 

MnkyBiz

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I purchased the other type offered by Eastwood
p2375.jpg


I purchased it as a kit with the extra tips. I have only broken one of the three so far.

MnkyBiz
 

vap13

Full Member
Joined
May 4, 2004
Messages
211
I used the one like mnkybiz from Eastwood. It worked pretty good, thats how I removed my windshield frame, many spotwelds. While I'm on the subject has anyone figured out a way to reattach the windshield frame without spotwelding?
Paul
 

iwlbcnu

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Nov 1, 2001
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I also used the ones above, found them at the local auto paint supply shop.
 

74bronc

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Jul 28, 2001
Messages
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I have used both and the kind that admin listed is the best. I hated the hole cut ones and chucked them in the trash. It is difficult to keep them centered and then they walk before they start cutting. I wasted alot of time and swear words on them. The kind admin listed work very well, less to grind afterward and they stay sharp for a long time. I used those all the time when working in the body shop. That is the only kind we used. I wouldn't bother with the 1/2" size as the 3/8" will work great on any spot welds on the EB.
 

HotWheels

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vap13 said:
While I'm on the subject has anyone figured out a way to reattach the windshield frame without spotwelding?
Paul

I considered this also. I replaced mine with the stainless windshield frame and hinge from Tom's Bronco Parts. Yet when I really thought about how to reattach it there were these things to deal with:

Bolt in:

1) very tight area.

2) bolt holes allowing water to seap (sp?) and cause rust issues later.

3) stress areas of bolts concentrated on a smaller area (not good)

Weld in:

1) negates #1

2) Negate #2 and allows the area to be sealed with a rust prohibiter such as POR15 or Rust Bullet.

3) Stress is disperssed over a wider area providing a much more secure attachment for going soft top/top less.

I chose to weld it in if u haven't figured that out;)

I know some here might dissagree; but we all do what we think is the best for our application.

hth,

Mick

:)
 

Bronco Ben

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i removed the cowl off my 65 mustang once with the eastwood style (hole saw type) and it did cause it to walk a bit. So I bought a pocket full of pilot bits (1/8th I believe) and drilled out the center of all the spot welds before using the eastwood bit. worked pretty good for me, there were several spots welds in the mustang cowl :(
Ben
 

Blue71

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I meant to add that, i also used a pilot bit. Didn't take much to make a small pilot dent and the bit won't walk on you.

Blue71
 

77TexasBronc

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Jan 27, 2003
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Loc.
Baytown Texas
I too found the 3/8" mini hole saw with a spring loaded point in the middle works ok however if you pre-drill with a 1/16 to 1/8 pilot bit it works great and prevents breaking the teeth off the small hole saw bit.
 

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admin

admin

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Thanks for the input. I just ordered these and I'll let everyone know how they work.

p618.jpg
 

Walter Hinz

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vap13

Full Member
Joined
May 4, 2004
Messages
211
HotWheels said:
I considered this also. I replaced mine with the stainless windshield frame and hinge from Tom's Bronco Parts. Yet when I really thought about how to reattach it there were these things to deal with:

Bolt in:

1) very tight area.

2) bolt holes allowing water to seap (sp?) and cause rust issues later.

3) stress areas of bolts concentrated on a smaller area (not good)

Weld in:

1) negates #1

2) Negate #2 and allows the area to be sealed with a rust prohibiter such as POR15 or Rust Bullet.

3) Stress is disperssed over a wider area providing a much more secure attachment for going soft top/top less.

I chose to weld it in if u haven't figured that out;)

I know some here might dissagree; but we all do what we think is the best for our application.

hth,

Mick

:)
I kind of felt that would be the answer. I could'nt figure anything small enough with the exception of maybe rivets that would be flat enough for the hinge not to hit.. Looks like I'll be spotwelding
Paul
 

behemoth

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Joined
Jul 2, 2003
Messages
1,736
This is another set that I am about to use on the window frame.
I did it the last time with just a drill and a chisle. This should make things a little easier.
 

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