Stabbing Dizzy New Motor - Logic Check

[kiteoregon]

Ok, so i have a 351W flat tappet and a D.U.I dizzy on a brand new build.

1) Find TDC on the compression stroke
2) Move to 10* BTDC
3) Seat the Dizzy, indicate the direction of the rotor, mark on base
4) Install cap and align plug terminal with mark on the base, this will be #1
5) Firing order is 1,3,7,2,6,5,4,8 so after plug 1 just move around the cap in a CCW direction following the firing order
6) Start up the engine (assuming it's been oil primed already and fuel primed)
7) Assuming it's running, pick up to 2000 RPM for 20 minutes (break in)
8) Adjust timing to be 24* @3200 RPM

This is my first motor build so any advice is welcome. The last thing i want to do is to burn it up and start all over.

Thanks
KO.

 

[bax]

Add coolant.

 

[Steve83]

The bottom of this caption explains how to stab a distributor:

 

[Ourobos]

1) How will you know it's a compression stroke? It's a dice roll. You may have to roll engine over 360 degrees if not.
2) Not NECESSARY, may help. 0 is close enough to start it, but nothing wrong with trying 10.
7) With the HO/351 firing order, I'd hope it's a roller? If so, no break in needed. If flat tappet, yes. You'll probably want the proper springs after break in as well if so.
8) EFI or carbureted? EFI the ECU added 16 degrees. Stock before is 10, I like 14 - so it'd be at 14+16=30 total. My thinking, set a carb the same degree.. I like 30...

 

[Dannyboy71]

The bottom of this caption explains how to stab a distributor:

Except...... 351 firing order is 13726548

 

[tirewater]

Double check all hose clamps. I got about a minute in before I had to tighten up my hose clamps. Have a second set of eyes watching the motor while you watch the tach.

If your distributor cap has a terminal marked with a one, use that as your starting cylinder. Install the cap & mark on the distributor body where one is.

I left my motor at TDC & rotated the rotor back so it slipped into place when I installed the distributor.

I had to rotate the oil pump shaft because the it didn't line up with the distributor shaft. You'll notice this if the distributor doesn't drop all the way down. I simply used the oil pump priming tool.

I got five minutes in before the leak at my transmission turned into a flood. Now dealing with that.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Add coolant.

I like to use straight water on the first start. Too many chances for leaks. My new water pump leaked on the first start. Easy to drain in the driveway if needed.

 

[rmk57]

I never start a new engine with any less than 12-14 degrees advance.

A performance engine may need at least that to run at all.

 

[Timmy390]

Coolant
Oil
Break in additive (flat tappet must have)
Prime oil system before stabbing the dizzy
Check hose clamps (you will need to do this once the cooling system is up to temp and pressure. I had a few drips.)
Check the PS fluid level so the pump don't burn up during break in.

Tim

 

[kiteoregon]

It's running a quadrajet. Was planning on running water vs. coolant for the first run due to possible leaks. I am using a special oil with break in additive added.

Thanks all, this is all great.

 

[Steve83]

Except...... 351 firing order is 13726548

Firing order is not an exception to that procedure. All 3 smallblock firing orders are linked in that caption.

Was planning on running water vs. coolant for the first run due to possible leaks.

Water will cause flash-rusting inside the block & water pump. It's better to just seal everything properly & use coolant. If you don't want to buy a coolant pressure tester, try to borrow one.