Steering Column Gap

[R-Banger]

Hello everyone,

Been lurking a while, finally decided to post as I really am stuck. So I have searched and found some guidance on closing the gap between my steering column and steering wheel, but didn't know if that was just a cosmetic fix.

When I got my car it had a beat up old Grant steering wheel with an adapter and a busted turn signal switch. I changed out the turn signal switch and installed a factory steering wheel as I prefer the original look. The dilemma I am having is it seems now I have a large gap and the horn switch is not contacting the back of my steering wheel. Also the prongs don't protrude deep enough on the back of my steering wheel to cancel my turn signal switch. Wanted to see what the proper remedy is? Car is a three on the tree. Would undoing the steering column and tapping it up fix this? Almost seem like the shaft is too long now.

Thanks in advance.

 

[R-Banger]

Here are some photos for reference.

 

[thegreatjustino]

Loosen the two bolts under the dash and the clamp holding it to the bracket in the engine compartment and you can slide it up toward the steering wheel to close the gap.

Once you do so, loosen the clamp on the steering shaft in the engine bay near where you loosened the clamp and slide it back up so it holds the bearing in the end of the column. It will need to slide up the same distance that you slid the column up.

 

[RonJones]

Photobucket sucks ...

 

[DirtDonk]

Also, try pushing down on the steering wheel to see if it moves, or if you can feel some spring pressure there holding it apart. What year is your Bronco, and in theory, the column?

Yeah, thought we were past most of the PhotoBucket debacle, but I see that is not the case.
Try another online image hosting site to see if that helps, or use your "garage" and "gallery" features here in your User CP center.
Ultimately, the best way to host images many of us think, is to pay the 12 bucks a year here for "contributor" status and you can upload the images directly.

If none of that works for some reason, you can e-mail them to me and I'll post them up for you.

But as Justino said, there is often a spacing issue from messing about with the column. The outer column casing can slide down on the shaft, and the shaft can slide up. But ultimately what holds the earlier model shafts in place is a small clamp down at the base (engine side of the firewall) that holds the lower bearing in place and also holds the shaft in it's lower position.
It's why I asked about what year yours is though. On some models there are ring clips that are supposed to locate the shaft inside the column.

Then there's the case of changing steering wheels. If the gap is something like an inch and a half or so, then you're likely missing the shift collar too.
Looking forward to seeing pics, whichever way you are able to upload them.

Paul

 

[72Sport]

What steering wheel do you have. Early and late are not interchangeable without changing a lot of parts. https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/Early_Bronco_Steering

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229582&highlight=S

The 2nd link shows pictures of the upper part of the column. That should help identify the column.

I do have an armload of most everything under the steering wheel.

 

[R-Banger]

Appreciate all the replies. So if I push on the steering wheel it compresses maybe a 1/4 inch or so from the spring. I just saw my photos didn't post. I just became a conritbutor to avoid the headache. Here are new photos.

Car is a 67 Bronco and has the period correct steering wheel link below.

https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/steering-wheel-factory-style-66-73-new

 

[DirtDonk]

Yeah, obviously that's not right, and now we know it's not just the shaft. Unless you can go down to the steering box and find out that it's pulled up too far? I don't think the stock shaft can do that, because of the design of the interface, but I've never tested that theory.

What about the shaft? Is it stock, or aftermarket?

And last, something just looks wrong to me about the angle of the column parts. In the one pic of the engine compartment side showing the wheel well and shifters, maybe it's the angle of the photo, but your column looks twisted/rotated farther to the engine side than I remember.
I guess "clocked" would be the better term here. I remember my shift levers and the aligning tube (the dome-shaped thingy on the column skin you use to slide a drill bit or rod through, to line up the shifters in Neutral) being rotated more to the top. Rather than more towards the engine like yours is.
How do the shift rods look down at the transmission? Are they adjusted with all their extra thread past the adjusters?

Sorry, a few more questions.
If you did not try loosening the column itself yet, as was suggested earlier, I would try that for sure. Can't hurt!

Paul

 

[thegreatjustino]

If you can simply push on the steering wheel and have the gap compress by 1/4" against the spring you either need to tighten the nut that holds the steering wheel to the shaft, or have someone compress the steering wheel and move the clamp in the engine bay that rides on the bearing and washer at the end of the column up.

You're either compressing against the spring under the steering wheel or the manual steering boot at the steering box is flexing. Remove the slop that's allowing that flexing and your problem is solved.

 

[PaveBronco]

Just like the TGJ said, prob adjust the column.
The Column bracket is slotted allowing some movement to reduce the gap.
Its easier if you pull the wheel off, pull the spring, put the wheel back on, just snug the nut. this way you're not fighting the spring tension. Once you get the gap set and all the clamps tight, reinstall the spring.
I had to elongate the slotted holes a time or two..
Also had an adaptor with the wrong taper, wouldn't go down enough..it was a cheap one, so my bad.

 

[72Sport]

The outer column tube needs to move toward the steering wheel. Measure the gap between the bottom of the steering wheel and the turn signal mount so you know how much you need to move the column up. Remove the plastic trim
that is screwed to the dash around the outer column tube. Loosen the two bolts that hold the column tube to the dash. Mark the dash to show the present location (that will give you a reference to show you where the column is now). When you get the pinch clamp (1/2" wrench) loose on the steering rod just below the end of the outer tube and the big pinch clamp loose (9/16" wrench) you can slide the whole column up toward the steering wheel. You will probably have to break the rubber seal on the outer tube that is between the column tube and firewall bracket that you just had your 9/16" wrench on. When you are happy with the gap tighten the little 1/2" clamp gently. Same with the 9/16" nut. Check things out. Can't tell you what the correct position is for the shift arms other than I keep mine in the garage in a box. I would GUESS the arms on the column should level and be parallel to the driveway when in neutral. Loosen nuts on trans shift levers and make sure they are in neutral position detents. Ford picture shows 3/16" alignment pin to line up shift levers next to column tube. When are happy tighten things up.

Not responsible for errors or omissions!!

 

[blknblu69v]

I just went thru this with my 69 that was converted to a floor shift. I was adding a new steering wheel/adapter and had a big gap and horn contacts weren’t touching. Read this thread and loosened bolts as described above and that did the trick! Thank you for your help! Now I got a cool steering wheel and turn signal cancels and horn working that never worked before!!

 

[R-Banger]

Thanks so much for all the guidance everyone. I apologize I have been out of the country but get back next week. Will give this a go and report back.

 

[R-Banger]

The outer column tube needs to move toward the steering wheel. Measure the gap between the bottom of the steering wheel and the turn signal mount so you know how much you need to move the column up. Remove the plastic trim
that is screwed to the dash around the outer column tube. Loosen the two bolts that hold the column tube to the dash. Mark the dash to show the present location (that will give you a reference to show you where the column is now). When you get the pinch clamp (1/2" wrench) loose on the steering rod just below the end of the outer tube and the big pinch clamp loose (9/16" wrench) you can slide the whole column up toward the steering wheel. You will probably have to break the rubber seal on the outer tube that is between the column tube and firewall bracket that you just had your 9/16" wrench on. When you are happy with the gap tighten the little 1/2" clamp gently. Same with the 9/16" nut. Check things out. Can't tell you what the correct position is for the shift arms other than I keep mine in the garage in a box. I would GUESS the arms on the column should level and be parallel to the driveway when in neutral. Loosen nuts on trans shift levers and make sure they are in neutral position detents. Ford picture shows 3/16" alignment pin to line up shift levers next to column tube. When are happy tighten things up.

Not responsible for errors or omissions!!

Okay so I went through this. I was able to when loose, compress the wheel and pull the column together. The problem is that when I let it go it's like the inner part of the column just bounces right back out towards the drivers seat. The small pinch clamp seems to just be wrapped around solid tubing. Not sure what it is supposed to hold in place. I have some photos below. Now my gap is bigger.?:?

I was able to tighten the steering wheel nut another turn with the breaker bar but that's as tight as it will get. Thank you for the detailed instructions though they were spot on.

 

[DirtDonk]

The problem is that when I let it go it's like the inner part of the column just bounces right back out towards the drivers seat.

That inner part is the solid shaft that the wheel is attached to, that you mention in your next statement.

The small pinch clamp seems to just be wrapped around solid tubing. Not sure what it is supposed to hold in place.

The solid tubing...
When your steering wheel moves up and down, the entire shaft is moving up and down right down to the joint at the box. There is a spring up there that wants to push it toward the driver. This is why two people really helps.
One pushes down on the wheel to close the gap, while the other moves the loose clamp upward to the lower bearing and then clamps it down tight.
Once that clamp is tight up against the bearing your steering shaft can no longer come up.

So try again. Move the outer column up like you did (maybe it's still up?), then move the steering wheel down while someone slides the clamp into place and tightens it while the gap is being held closed.
On early models that clamp literally holds the lower bearing race in place. On later ones that still used the clamp, it simply keeps the shaft from moving up and creating the gap.
The clamp is key to the whole process, as was mentioned earlier by justino...

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and I don't know if it was mentioned before, but that is a custom lower shaft setup. In case you were not already aware.
Looks like someone cut the old tulip joint and lower section and welded on a u-joint from some other application maybe. Probably for a custom power steering install.

And since this is the '67 you should verify that your lower bearing and race are still intact and in good shape. If they're worn out or missing, you will never have a good tight wheel without at least some trouble.

The bearing looks like an old kids bicycle crank or steering head bearing (plastic cage, exposed metal roller ball bearings) and the race is a nylon/plastic looking thingy that slides up the shaft into the bearing.
The collar/clamp holds it all together. Too tight and it'll be rough and wear out. Too loose and it will flop around and be noisy.
Again, the clamp is the key to everything on the early columns.

Paul

 

[H20rider]

‘68 Half Cab that had column 3 speed that's now 4 on the floor. I've got a '68 Mustang steering wheel. Problem is that the wheel bounces. The column is tight, but the steering shaft is unsupported . It looks like a bushing would help stabilize the shaft in the column. Is there a part for this?

 

[thegreatjustino]

'68 Half Cab that had column 3 speed that's now 4 on the floor. I've got a '68 Mustang steering wheel. Problem is that the wheel bounces. The column is tight, but the steering shaft is unsupported . It looks like a bushing would help stabilize the shaft in the column. Is there a part for this?

You're missing one or both of the upper sleeves that go between the shaft and bearing. From the factory, the lower sleeve was plastic and the upper was metal.

The plastic is the only one that's available new.

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Bearing_sleeve_6673yr/Bronco_Stock_Column_Parts

 

[DirtDonk]

Or they're there, but not adjusted. If you're lucky...
Look closely at the lower end of the column in the engine compartment and see if the bushing and clamp have slipped down. Or more likely were left loose and slipped down, since once it's tight it's almost impossible for it to slip on it's own.

However the parts can and do wear out. Only an once or twice over will tell you what's going on.
Did you put the Mustang wheel in place, or did a previous owner?

Paul

 

[seymourless]

The outer column tube needs to move toward the steering wheel. Measure the gap between the bottom of the steering wheel and the turn signal mount so you know how much you need to move the column up. Remove the plastic trim
that is screwed to the dash around the outer column tube. Loosen the two bolts that hold the column tube to the dash. Mark the dash to show the present location (that will give you a reference to show you where the column is now). When you get the pinch clamp (1/2" wrench) loose on the steering rod just below the end of the outer tube and the big pinch clamp loose (9/16" wrench) you can slide the whole column up toward the steering wheel. You will probably have to break the rubber seal on the outer tube that is between the column tube and firewall bracket that you just had your 9/16" wrench on. When you are happy with the gap tighten the little 1/2" clamp gently. Same with the 9/16" nut. Check things out. Can't tell you what the correct position is for the shift arms other than I keep mine in the garage in a box. I would GUESS the arms on the column should level and be parallel to the driveway when in neutral. Loosen nuts on trans shift levers and make sure they are in neutral position detents. Ford picture shows 3/16" alignment pin to line up shift levers next to column tube. When are happy tighten things up.

Not responsible for errors or omissions!!

Apologies for the late bump, but this writeup was absolutely perfect for helping me get my aftermarket steering wheel and hub to all work correctly, horn included!