Steering stabilizer install

[the74bronco]

Measure the shock, bushing to bushing (between the two halves) both compressed and extended and post those here.
Members here can compare them to known good ones.

Those aren’t actually factory brackets, and they don’t mount in the factory location at least on the drag link.
It does look like it’s utilizing the factory holes on the cross Member, but it’s hard to tell from here.
Does the passenger side bracket use two bolts in line, as shown in that other picture by .94 OR, of a factory bracket next to the custom offset one?
Looks like there’s a little more room you could move that over, but certainly not enough to compensate for the long shock.

You could be dealing with the double issue of a longer bodied shock, and the non-stock drag link.

14” compressed and 23” extended. The frame mount utilizes the existing holes in the frame. I was avoiding installing the ubolts on the threaded heim end because that didn’t seem right, but I could not find any clarification.

 

[the74bronco]

The supplied driver side bracket does look nicely offset to accommodate a slight lift. Is there any chance that, using the U-bolt mounting method that you have, it can be pushed up to the upper link closer to the Pitman arm? Instead of on the main bar of the drag link?
Or does that put it too close to the Pitman arm?

It could go on the threaded heim or maybe the heim end?

 

[the74bronco]

i never noticed this. seems like a poor concept to mount this to the threaded portion.

That was my thought.

 

[the74bronco]

Here’s some pics without bracket , so yes maybe one unbolt around adjuster (hex in center position and then other around upper rod end .. ,, s far as alignments well the tech would have remove bracket while making adjustments if needed,, not ideal but have had to do that on quite a few aftermarket set ups on various vehicles,

Note ,, OP’s signature shows 5.5iin lift with drop pitman , so may take some extra work? Op also post picks of whole setup all the way to right side , looking at how the upper end is the adjuster shows a lot of thread on tube side and not many threads on rod end side ,, ,,, ,, there is adjustability in the tie rod ends and adjuster to shift tie rod tube left or right as well as drag link to get everything in good position ,

I found on the ends that aren’t part of the adjustment, I first had them in the tube so minimal thread was showing but found that didn’t work so well as then the adjusters would need to have a lot of thread showing,, so had to play with all the ends till I was happy , had it close until brought to work and did final adjustments,,

Also note , I find my steering box center and mark it , set everything with box centered and then worry about if steering wheel is installed properly .,,
But all this is done after frame and axle are centered with track bar .

I first centered the axle, steering box and the pitman arm straight back. With that set I was trying to mount the bracket to the tube to avoid bolting to the threads on the heim. The lower portion doesn’t seem to have much adjustability, but the top does. Adjusting the top part pushes the pitman arm to the drivers side when everything else is centered, which seemed off.


I did not think about bolting it to the actual heim end at the pitman arm. Is that how you set yours up?

 

[.94 OR]

Why did the extended bracket not fix it? I was thinking about doing the same thing.

That was a couple years ago, so a bit foggy on the brain, but the shock didn't have the same length of travel that the upper mount did.

 

[ksagis]

FK rod ends looks to be a possible source for parts if you wanted to do what I mentioned. Looks like from your exposed threads on adjuster you have the length to make it work.

https://www.fkrodends.com/products/rod-ends/

Probably just easier to bolt on adjuster though, at least to test if the stabilizer is doing what you want.

 

[EPB72]

I first centered the axle, steering box and the pitman arm straight back. With that set I was trying to mount the bracket to the tube to avoid bolting to the threads on the heim. The lower portion doesn’t seem to have much adjustability, but the top does. Adjusting the top part pushes the pitman arm to the drivers side when everything else is centered, which seemed off.


I did not think about bolting it to the actual heim end at the pitman arm. Is that how you set yours up?

I don't run a stabilizer,, but have in the past but not on the current set up,,

As far as mounting on upper rod end , that is how the picture Oldtimer posted from the duff site,, shows it,, , when I looked on there site I only found a picture with ther older style white damper pictured , they also mention it being 12 1/8 c and 20 1/2 e,, to me the dimensions of the damper you posted 14 and 23 aren't helping, ....maybe loosly mount bracket on rod end and leave damper off measure between frame braket and pitman arm braket at center position and then cycle steering full left and right and take those 2 measurments ,

as far as drag link , the adjustment of the rod ends . if the lower end is sreawd out a little then you could have the upper end screwd in more less threads exposed, ,,,basicly the tube is shifted to the left a little more, but the pitman arm is still at the steering gear center point ..

 

[jamesroney]

I first centered the axle, steering box and the pitman arm straight back.

This is incorrect for an Early Bronco.

When you install the pitman arm on an early Bronco, and the steering box is centered, you should be able to service the drag link castle nut straight up past the frame with a socket.

It makes the drag link about 1-2 inches longer, and it looks really funny. I think it's keyed 1-2 teeth off 90 degrees. But that's how the factory did it, and that's why your steering shock won't fit. (that and your shock is too big.)

Also, Your pitman arm needs to be twisted to match your lift. That rod end should be centered in it's angular travel at static ride height. I posted in the other thread about breaking off the rod end stud post. PLEASE be safe.

 

[DirtDonk]

You sure about that James?
We’ve talked about it a lot over the years, where we look at the early models (at least before 73), had their Pitman arm offset 10° (one spline?) to the driver side.
At some point after that, however, it seems that they changed to straight back from the factory. The Pitman arms and sector shafts are keyed, as you said, but the aftermarket arms usually are not. And it might depend on what steering gearbox is installed as well.
And can’t you still get a socket on a nut even with the arm straight back? After all, the box and arm are to the outside of the frame rail to begin with.

 

[jamesroney]

You sure about that James?
We’ve talked about it a lot over the years, where we look at the early models (at least before 73), had their Pitman arm offset 10° (one spline?) to the driver side.
At some point after that, however, it seems that they changed to straight back from the factory. The Pitman arms and sector shafts are keyed, as you said, but the aftermarket arms usually are not. And it might depend on what steering gearbox is installed as well.
And can’t you still get a socket on a nut even with the arm straight back? After all, the box and arm are to the outside of the frame rail to begin with.

I am NOT 100% sure about that. I will defer to you on anything built with factory power steering. I've got a factory 76-77 box handy, so I'll check to see if the missing tooth is centered in the middle of the box. I don't think I've ever had a factory 73+power steering pitman arm. I've only had the C8TA arms, and they are keyed to the driver's side.

edit...now that @Oldtimer posted a pic of the D3TA-A arm, I'm going to change my answer to "yes."

I know I spent a fair amount of time filing away the key slots on the 76-79 F100 pitman arm for the 4x4x2 box before I twist them. (and yeah I mill the giant donut arm smaller so a pitman arm puller fits...)

And when I say "socket" I mean a socket with an impact wrench attached to it. Specifically a Chicago Pneumatic CP-734. In my mind, I can remember thinking..."that arm is NOT pointed straight."

 

[DirtDonk]

When I took pictures of the different arms, it didn’t occur to me at the time to take additional photos of the splines. Duh!

 

[Shimmy]

my 77 stock box was keyed offset to the driver side.

 

[DirtDonk]

Good to know. Thanks
Now we just need to confirm which way the different pitman arms were keyed, if any different.
Was it that way from the factory, and with the dropped pitman arm?
Maybe they put the '76/'77 arms back out like that, or maybe all them were that way and all the "straight back" arms we've seen were on lifted trucks?
Lots of people have been messing with these things in detail since they were new. Hopefully we can put a "100% certain" at the end of this discussion.

Paul

 

[Oldtimer]

C8TA-3590-F (68 M/S) and D3TA-3590-AA (72 P/S) side by side.
They are both clocked to drivers side.

There is also a D6TZ-3590-B used on 76-77 power steering boxes.


Both of these have casting number of C8TA-3590-F.
The one on the right was stock on my 68, and has no indexing keys. It has punch marks that correspond to the keys.

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks Geoff. That’s just the kind of stuff we are looking for here.
It still coincides with what we’ve been saying here for many years. We’ve talked about up until 73 being offset one spline, while later power steering Broncos were straight back.
That was not said with any authority, of course. Just what it appeared to be from others experiences. But after all these years we don’t know the circumstances, and whether or not the Broncos were stock or modified.
But if the D3 arm was the same through 77, that would put an end to guessing.

Does anyone have 74/75 and 76/77 arms to compare?
And that’s interesting about the indents rather than keys on your 68. My 71 had definite key splines.
The first time I installed an aftermarket arm meant for a full-size Ford, I had to file the keys out in order to get the arm to sit at the same offset to the driver side as my stock arm.
I remember thinking it was funny that it was offset, but I was certain that’s how I had taken it off and that the box was centered. So that’s where it went back.

 

[DirtDonk]

And as anyone can see in those pictures, there’s a good reason for James’ modification to let the pullers fit!
Got any pictures of your modified arms James?

 

[jamesroney]

C8TA-3590-F (68 M/S) and D3TA-3590-AA (72 P/S) side by side.
They are both clocked to drivers side.

There is also a D6TZ-3590-B used on 76-77 power steering boxes.

Thanks for looking that up. I 'm pretty sure that the D6TZ-B number you posted is the service part number out of the MPC.

That arm should have the D6TA-B part number forged into it.

 

[Oldtimer]