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Steering Wheel moving in and out after Lower Shaft Replacement

NolaBoy

Jr. Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2013
Messages
52
I recently had my lowing steering shaft replaced as there was some slack in the U joint. After replacement the steering wheel moves in and out. Not the entire column only the inner shaft. Is there a retainer clip or clamp for this? I know there is a clamp for the column on 75s and lower but mine is a 76 and it states it is not needed. The wild horses web site states that the shaft is held in place by a snap ring and c-clip at the top of the shaft. Could I be missing this? Thanks.

Jimmy
 

WILDHORSES

Sponsor/Vendor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 7, 2003
Messages
2,202
Loc.
USA
Upper 76 shaft showing two grooves for the snap rings. The ones on either side of the knurled part. That third groove is wear and does not belong there. Make sure you have snap rings in both stock grooves. That will keep the shaft from moving up or down provided everything else is what it should be.

Jim
 

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NolaBoy

Jr. Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2013
Messages
52
Thanks! I'll take a look. Are those snap rings for sale anywhere?
 

jmhend

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
2,739
Upper 76 shaft showing two grooves for the snap rings. The ones on either side of the knurled part. That third groove is wear and does not belong there. Make sure you have snap rings in both stock grooves. That will keep the shaft from moving up or down provided everything else is what it should be.

Jim

Hey Jim,

A buddy is having a similar issue but he has a 74 manual column. The steering wheel started moving after he installed the lower shaft.
 

muskrat

Bronco Guru
Joined
Aug 21, 2008
Messages
1,503
'74 needs the clamp at the bearing at the bottom of the column.

thanks for the get back. I have the clamp at the bottom of the column, which prevents it from pulling out, but my issue is the steering column moving down that far enough that the signal switch housing is rubbing against the shift collar sleeve.

I'm thinking a set screw on the bottom of the adjustable shaft would prevent the shaft from moving down so far.

Thanks.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,096
I have the clamp at the bottom of the column, which prevents it from pulling out, but my issue is the steering column moving down that far enough that the signal switch housing is rubbing against the shift collar sleeve.

The clamp also sets the spacing. It's not just so things don't pull up, but to hold them at the proper "preload" for lack of a better term. On the very early ones, it actually holds the lower bearing's inner race in place.
We've found that '74's have a crazy mishmash of parts from early and late models. Does your friend's have the early lower bearing, or the later 1-piece sealed unit?

On Broncos even the stock 1-piece shaft can move up and down because the old tulip joint had a lot of play in it. Your buddy's '74 probably has a rag-joint and a regular u-joint? Definitely much tighter, but it's still not the job of the joints to keep the shaft from moving in and out. In fact the aftermarket joints are even tighter than the factory ones in some cases.
Nor is it the job of the admittedly tighter factory 2-piece collapsible shaft to hold things in place. It's the lower clamp against the upper spring and c-clip.

The lower shaft is allowed to move all it wants and does not have to be limited. Yes, you could put a set-screw between the two halves to act as kind of a limiter, or even weld it (neither a good idea though, as it would defeat the safety aspects of the collapsible shaft) but you should not have to.
Unless I'm remembering it wrong, the column shaft is retained exclusively by the lower clamp keeping it from moving up, and the upper c-clip to keep it from going too far down, and the spring to keep the upper bits from rubbing on each other.
Maybe in your case there is no c-clip because the parts are rubbing on each other when pushed down too far, but there is still a balance to be struck between the upper spring and lower clamp.
I've seen plenty of Bronco columns you could push hard enough on that it would rub parts together. The trick is to loosen the lower clamp, have a helper push down on the steering wheel just enough to tighten up the gaps, but not enough to make things rub on each other, then re-tighten the clamp.

Maybe Jim knows if that upper c-clip on the early columns is there to limit the downward movement. But my own '71 could be pushed hard enough against the upper spring to make things rub. I remember seeing the groove, but don't remember a clip. But it's been so long it could have been there and I simply did not need to mess with it.
I basically pushed down until things touched, then let the spring push up until the parts separated by a tiny amount (less then 1/8" or so if I remember) then tightened the clamp. Drove it that way for many years and never had anything rub.
That spring is pretty strong.

You could even grab some material of the thickness you'd like your gaps to be, slip it in between the parts and push hard up against them to set the gap. Then slide the lower clamp as far up as it will go.
If that does not do the job, we'll need pics!

But let us know about the type of bearing at least. Very curious about that always with '74's.
Maybe even post up what month the Bronco was built based on the door pillar decal.

Thanks

Paul
 

jmhend

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
2,739
The clamp also sets the spacing. It's not just so things don't pull up, but to hold them at the proper "preload" for lack of a better term. On the very early ones, it actually holds the lower bearing's inner race in place.
We've found that '74's have a crazy mishmash of parts from early and late models. Does your friend's have the early lower bearing, or the later 1-piece sealed unit?

On Broncos even the stock 1-piece shaft can move up and down because the old tulip joint had a lot of play in it. Your buddy's '74 probably has a rag-joint and a regular u-joint? Definitely much tighter, but it's still not the job of the joints to keep the shaft from moving in and out. In fact the aftermarket joints are even tighter than the factory ones in some cases.
Nor is it the job of the admittedly tighter factory 2-piece collapsible shaft to hold things in place. It's the lower clamp against the upper spring and c-clip.

The lower shaft is allowed to move all it wants and does not have to be limited. Yes, you could put a set-screw between the two halves to act as kind of a limiter, or even weld it (neither a good idea though, as it would defeat the safety aspects of the collapsible shaft) but you should not have to.
Unless I'm remembering it wrong, the column shaft is retained exclusively by the lower clamp keeping it from moving up, and the upper c-clip to keep it from going too far down, and the spring to keep the upper bits from rubbing on each other.
Maybe in your case there is no c-clip because the parts are rubbing on each other when pushed down too far, but there is still a balance to be struck between the upper spring and lower clamp.
I've seen plenty of Bronco columns you could push hard enough on that it would rub parts together. The trick is to loosen the lower clamp, have a helper push down on the steering wheel just enough to tighten up the gaps, but not enough to make things rub on each other, then re-tighten the clamp.

Maybe Jim knows if that upper c-clip on the early columns is there to limit the downward movement. But my own '71 could be pushed hard enough against the upper spring to make things rub. I remember seeing the groove, but don't remember a clip. But it's been so long it could have been there and I simply did not need to mess with it.
I basically pushed down until things touched, then let the spring push up until the parts separated by a tiny amount (less then 1/8" or so if I remember) then tightened the clamp. Drove it that way for many years and never had anything rub.
That spring is pretty strong.

You could even grab some material of the thickness you'd like your gaps to be, slip it in between the parts and push hard up against them to set the gap. Then slide the lower clamp as far up as it will go.
If that does not do the job, we'll need pics!

But let us know about the type of bearing at least. Very curious about that always with '74's.
Maybe even post up what month the Bronco was built based on the door pillar decal.

Thanks

Paul


Thanks Paul, I will see if we can't get somewhere with the information you provided.
 
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