Steering - Which tie rod setup to run on my 76?

[joshd1971bronco]

I have a 76 that obviously came with the inferior "Y" style steering linkage setup. I'll be running a 3.5 inch susp lift with a 1 or 1.5 inch body lift. I would like to switch to some version of the "T" style linkage and I would like to have it set up as a 'tie-rod over the knuckle' to gain some ground clearance and improve geometry.

My question is - what's the......simplest, easiest, effective to get there?

If I buy a whole new stock style "T" setup - from like WH or something - it's almost a $400 deal. For that, I could get a "Bullet-Proof" heim-joint / DOM tubing steering system - that seems like a better solution. Thoughts?

Finally, I do have in my possession the complete "T" style linkage from a FULL SIZE 78 Bronco. Is there any merit in cutting down, and machining these used pieces to fit?

Thanks for any info you can provide.

 

[blubuckaroo]

What are you using the car for? The inverted "Y" was Ford's attempt at more ground clearance. If you don't have a front locker it should work fine.

 

[joshd1971bronco]

Good point - I forgot to mention the use.

It will be used for street driving as well as mild camping and trail use - fire roads to double tracks to some, what I would call, mild rock climbing - think Colorado 4x4 trails.

I understand that the geometry of the "Y" style gets out of whack beyond adjustment once you lift the vehicle much at all. I'm planning on about 3.5-inches of suspension lift.

 

[broncnaz]

Just about any way you go is going to cost you when going to a TRO. Your 78 tierod could be shortened and made to work and would be a very good choice. You biggest issue may be tierod and wheel clearance 76/77 knuckles are a little closer to the wheel and most people need to install wheel spacers or get different wheels(either backspacing or larger wheels) so the tieord clears the wheel.
I'm personally not a big fan of hiem setups for steering but thats another can of worms.

 

[blubuckaroo]

Toms and WH sell the stock type conersions. Check your DOT regs on the use of heim joints. Vendors can sell them but I don't think they are legal for street.

 

[g8rb8t]

Switched my '76 Daily driver to the T set-up from wild horses here and love it. Plus no reaming, direct bolt-up:

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Tie_Rod_Drag_Link_3way_Adjustable_7677yr/Tie_Rods_Drag_Links

 

[Oatmeal]

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Full-Steering-Kits_c_113.html ----------Hans

 

[COBlu77]

I ran the stock "Y" set up for many years, doing just what you described your use will be. It worked fine and I never bent anything and it was no problem to keep aligned. If your drag link and ties rods are still tight, just adjust the toe when you put on your lift and call it good until you wear it out or bend it.

When I went to 35" tires I got it in my head that I needed a beefy "Heim" setup and bought a whole Stonecrusher setup. It was a great product, at a great price with great service. I've had no issues with it over the last 3 years. Very "beefy". Mine handled and felt noticibly better after making the change from my 30 year old "Y" stuff.

Having said that here are my regrets and how I'd do it different now. First, you have somewhat unique 76-77 knuckles and drilling them straight thru, without a taper, for Heim style will be hard to change if you want to go back to a tapered tied rod. That taper is a design feature for a reason. Realistically, I drive mine mostly on the street and highway. The lock nuts on the bolts thru the knuckles and pitman arm do work loose and you better have a pin through the bolts. After a hard trail, I have to tighten everthing back down a little to get rid of the noises and loose feeling. My heim track bar gets very noisy after a day on the trails. This has me a little nervous about the safety aspect, but they have never worked loose on the street and Stonecrusher's 3/4" grade 8 bolts and heims seem up to the task.

My recommendation would be to check out 1 ton tie rod stuff at Moab Mike's http://extremecustomparts.com/. You still have to ream the knuckle, but at least it's a taper you can buy DOT approved tie rods for. I personally didn't see the need for "tie rod over" and my track bar alignment was better in the stock location under.

 

[todd.gorman]

Plus extreme custom parts is having a great sale right now!!!

Typical...just bought mine last month and now there is a sale..... haven't installed it yet. Not sure if I'll do it over or under yet. Will check how the track bar lines up.

 

[joshd1971bronco]

Wow, no kidding. Extreme custom's setup looks like a good deal and the fact that you can buy replacement ends is a plus. Thanks for the tips. I may start a new thread (after doing a search) about their stuff. I've never heard of them - are they quality? Good support?

 

[73stallion]

another vote for the GM 1 ton TRE's, but also agree on the clearance issues. i'm doing one on a '77 right now and we're having to run 1/4" wheel spacers. extreme is running a 10% off sale right now, which makes it about the same price as the ballistic setup, and it's already welded together.

http://extremecustomparts.com/

 

[66fora69er]

subscribed

 

[haydenjsle]

I switched from the "inverted Y" to a heim jointed "T" style on my '76.

I ordered DOM with the exact ID so all the machine shop had to do was run a tap--no drilling and no welding in bungs. Then I had QA1 spec out some heim joints. Very simple and cheap--a big improvement in driveability and strength over stock.

The DOT issue is a good question--something I never thought of and something you should probably look into if it sees street time.

I did make sure to use pins through the locking nuts/bolts and used some medium strength thread locker on everything and have never had an issue with loosening. The ends QA1 spec'd have not given me any squeaks or noise, either.

I prefer tie rod over, but you will run into clearance issues with the drag link bracket if you go this route--nothing that can't be fixed relatively easy though. As noted above, you might also run into clearance issues with your rims/ wheel weights with the bigger joints--depending on your wheel backspacing. All in all, I'm very satisfied with this setup.