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Stock 9 inch rear end.

Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Messages
23
Loc.
yuma
New guy question here. I have the stock (I believe) 9 inch rear end and my outer axle seal is leaking pretty good. My question is are the axles wet or dry?
Contemplating if I’ll need to do both inner and outer seals or if it’s supposed to be wet and can just get outer seal.
Thanks in advance.
 

Apogee

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They're just standard semi-float, 28-spline 9" rear ends, so the seal is pressed into the housing end just inside the axle bearing. Remove the tire/wheel, drum, axle and pull it out through the drum brake backing plates. Once the axles are out, you can remove and replace the seals and then reinstall everything, though you may want to look at the rear drums and do some service in case the drum brake shoes are saturated with diff lube.
 

DirtDonk

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That’s assuming they’ve never been changed over the last 48 years!
But you can tell quick enough when you’re pulling them out.
 
OP
OP
gumby77
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Sep 18, 2019
Messages
23
Loc.
yuma
Sounds like they just have the one on the outsides (wheel side) of the hosing then correct? I’ll get them out and see what im working with. I appreciate the help. I had the rear end rebuilt a few years ago but didnt replace the seals since they weren’t leaking. other than a locker i belI’ve its stock. Good call on the Pads also thanks. Was out yesterday in the desert here and had some smoking when i went to air down so im thinking the shoes are pretty well saturated.
 

spap

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The Dana 44 you have in the front has an inner and outer seals , haa just in case
 

Broncobowsher

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No, the other way around.
If stock, the seal is inboard of the bearing. Bearing is a sealed, lubed with grease for life bearing that should not have any gear oil.
 
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gumby77
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Sep 18, 2019
Messages
23
Loc.
yuma
Ok got it out and now my next new guy question. The bearing and seal are as broncobowsher stated. However the bearing has blown up. Lol missing still in tact but both inner and outer bearing seals are gone and a few of the ball bearings are also missing. The seal besides leaking isn’t in too bad of shape.
How do i measure to see if i have the small or big bearing axle and seal?
 

Apogee

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You have to be a contributor to post pictures directly, otherwise you can just link out like you did.

The small-bearing measures Ø72mm OD [Ø2.835" OD] and has a 2.00" x 3.13" rectangular pattern for the 3/8" retainer bolts, so it looks like you might have a small-bearing rear end. Some EB's in the early to mid-70's came with the "new-style" big-bearing Torino housing ends, which some people here call a medium-duty rear end, which use the Ø80mm [Ø3.150"] bearings and have a similar 2.00" x 3.56" rectangular flange pattern with 3/8" retainer bolts. Visually it can be hard to tell these apart from the small-bearing applications without something else for reference, a dimension, etc.

FWIW, the old-style big-bearing 9" ends use the same Ø80mm bearing as the Torino, but have a larger 2.38" x 3.50" flange pattern and 1/2" retainer bolts.
 

DirtDonk

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I had the rear end rebuilt a few years ago but didnt replace the seals since they weren’t leaking. other than a locker i belI’ve its stock.
So you pulled the axles and took the center section out? Had someone put new gears, bearings, and a locker in? I’m surprised they didn’t suggest you replace the seals and bearings at the same time.
Seals will eventually leak. Sealed ball bearings will eventually wear out.
We know that around here, because lots of people have lost axles going down the road when their bearings disintegrated. The Lucky among us, discovered that the bearings were toast while doing general maintenance.
Generally speaking, if your bearings have 100k miles or more, they need to be replaced.
As you may have just found out…😉😁
Was out yesterday in the desert here and had some smoking when i went to air down so im thinking the shoes are pretty well saturated.
Very likely. But even more likely, the smoke you saw was the destroyed bearing heating up and burning gear oil.
Make sure you check the condition of the axle shaft underneath for overheating and scoring. Post some pictures up here for discussion.
Was the Bronco also loaded up for an outing?
Usually the catastrophic failures occur under just a few circumstances. More heavily loaded than normal, or towing. Hot weather, or a bit of a high speed freeway jaunt.
In your case, maybe multiples of the above!

Even though it’s not normally convenient, you’re not driving the vehicle at the moment anyway.
So I would remove the old bearings to check the axle shafts first. Before you buy all new parts.
You might end up needing at least one new axle shaft. Many of them come with bearings already installed.
 
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gumby77
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Sep 18, 2019
Messages
23
Loc.
yuma
Thanks for the info. I think I have the small bearings now after taking it apart. I did the whole break the bearing and cut the inner race and the keeper and used a punch to walk them off. That shaft looks great. I’ll just have to go up to the local parts store and match up the pieces I have remaining before pressing a new one on. Pics to follow.
 
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gumby77
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Sep 18, 2019
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Loc.
yuma
Having a hard time with minimal service to send more pics but will soon. Also for dirtdonk since I’ve had this rig I try to do most everything I can on my own. When I was doing a new motor and sniper efi ect. I noticed a noise from the drive shaft and found my u-joints to be totally trashed and replaced those and that led me to pulling the axles and third member and paid someone local to rebuild it for me. That’s why I didn’t replace anything in the housing that wasn’t already leaking.. I should have but was on a budget at the time. lol.
As far as failure of the bearing goes I live in Yuma az and take this rig out a lot in the dirt and rocks so it’s probably just over time and abuse.
 

DirtDonk

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Yep, to both. Budgets are always a killer of "might as well do this now too-itis" and stuff like that. And desert heat and traveling will put them to death early on.
My '71 spent some of it's first life on a Montana hunting club land doing duty. My bearings were toast (big bearings by the way) by 90k miles. Found them dry to the ear, while doing some brake work.
Replaced them at the time, and was amazed at how much easier the whole truck rolled! Guess they'd been drying out and overworked for awhile by then.

Paul
 

bad 68

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Jul 1, 2010
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Northest Washington
I torqued an axle off at the bearing doing a burnout in front of my house. It had a rusty crack 1/3 of the way through the break in the axle. I had that bearing go to crap like you did and didn't look close enough when replacing the bearing. Got by for about a year before it separated.
 

DirtDonk

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You gotta love these “it happened right in front of my house“ happy endings. Beats the heck out of the middle of the desert or a long freeway trip.
 

Beau Nugget

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I torqued an axle off at the bearing doing a burnout in front of my house. It had a rusty crack 1/3 of the way through the break in the axle. I had that bearing go to crap like you did and didn't look close enough when replacing the bearing. Got by for about a year before it separated.
what I think Bad 68 is saying is that it might not be a bad idea to just replace the axle too. If it’s original it doesn’t owe anyone anything at this point, and you may save yourself a bunch of trouble to replace it before it decides to break at an in opportune time. These trucks are around 50 years old or more. A lot of stress and abuse could have occurred since new.
 
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