• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Stuck Valve and Low Compression

dsenatore

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2002
Messages
75
Loc.
East Walpole
Hi Gang,
I've had an issue with valves sticking after getting my '76(302, dual exhaust, auto tranny)back on the road last year after having sat outside under a tarp for @ 10 years. Last year I removed the gas tanks and cleaned them. New fuel senders, pump and filters. It's ran a little rough when cold but would free up after she warmed up and it ran great. I did the paper at the tailpipe test and it sucked it in on both banks of the 302 when it ran rough. Drove it to the Cape this past weekend with no issues until I got off the highway. It started running rough again and then had idle issues and stalled. Stayed like that over the weekend and I tried freeing it up Sea Foam down the carb but that didn't change anything. I was able to drive it home. It seemed ok enough but still not 100%. Plugs and wires are @ 25 years old that I put in after the engine was rebuilt. Motor has @ 20k miles on it and it's basically stock and running newly rebuilt Motorcraft 2150 2bbl carb. I pulled the plugs and they looked old but ok, no obvious issues. Did a compression check and 7 cylinders read @ 120-125 psi. #1 was @ 65psi and it held that pressure. Took the valve cover and watched the valves. The one closest to the grill seemed a little erratic at first but it's hard to be sure. No obvious play etc... I plan on pulling the push rod to see what it looks like in the next day or 2. I have new plugs, wires and dizzy cap/rotor on the way. Obvious concern is the low compression on the #1 cylinder. It doesn't burn any oil, no clicking/tapping/knocks etc... Just looking for some ideas of what I may be up against.
Thanks,
David
 

73azbronco

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
7,842
Even just one year old gas can go bad with water. When you cleaned the fuel tanks did you use some fuel additive to store it?

Might have a stuck lifter but you would hear that for sure.

I've used seafom in the oil to lower viscosity before an oil change, that might also work to free a sticky valve or ring, maybe.

look at this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttd93j4lih8
 

B RON CO

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jun 29, 2016
Messages
2,419
Loc.
Statesville, NC
Hi, if you can put compressed air in the #1 cylinder you might be able to determine what is leaking. With #1 on top dead center, on the compression stroke, if the compressed air come out the carb the trouble is with the intake valve, same with the exhaust, or out the dipstick tube would be piston rings.
As mentioned, there are products like Marvel Mystery oil you could try in the gas tank and the crank case before taking the engine apart. Sometimes the stuff works. Good luck
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
At this point you don't know if it's a stuck valve or stuck rings.
I'd try an engine flush with fresh oil and a can of Berrymans Chem tool. The instructions are on the can.
 

cldonley

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 4, 2011
Messages
1,300
Loc.
Robinson, TX
Hi, if you can put compressed air in the #1 cylinder you might be able to determine what is leaking. With #1 on top dead center, on the compression stroke, if the compressed air come out the carb the trouble is with the intake valve, same with the exhaust, or out the dipstick tube would be piston rings.
As mentioned, there are products like Marvel Mystery oil you could try in the gas tank and the crank case before taking the engine apart. Sometimes the stuff works. Good luck

This works. We use this technique on aircraft recip engines. If you find the problem is with a valve, you can "stake" the valve (another airplane trick). Remove the rocker arm and, using a brass drift, rap the valve stem a couple of time and let the spring snap it closed. That will often break deposits and carbon loose and let the valve close properly on the seat and stop sticking in the guide, a common problem after a lot of sitting.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
try a quart of automatic transmission fluid in your oil and run it for a while before changing the oil.
 
OP
OP
D

dsenatore

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2002
Messages
75
Loc.
East Walpole
Thanks for the replies, all good info. I'll pull the push rod and then check on freeing the piston ring re the compression.

73azbronco - I put sea foam and Sta-bil in the fuel before putting away for the winter last year and it's run through several tanks this season.

B Ron Co - I will try the compressed air and see what that shows. I'm inclined to think it being the intake valve on the #1 based on what we saw when we ran it with the valve cover off.

Blubuckaroo - I picked up a couple cans of Berrymans and I will use that for the piston rings for now though I also read Acetone is good for that as well. Gotta pick one I guess. May also add the ATF as Rustytruck suggests as well.

Interested to see what the oil looks like when I change it. Hopefully no surprises...
Thanks again everyone - I'll post a follow up after the weekend. Enjoy yours!
David
 

1970 Palmer

Full Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2020
Messages
455
While you have the rocker cover off, check the valve lift. Use a dial indicator and check the lift of the #1 intake valve compared to the lift of the #2 intake valve. New flat tappet cams going flat are a common problem during break-in on newly rebuilt engines today. It's a easy, quick check.

John
 

blubuckaroo

Grease Monkey
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
11,795
Loc.
Ridgefield WA
While you have the rocker cover off, check the valve lift. Use a dial indicator and check the lift of the #1 intake valve compared to the lift of the #2 intake valve. New flat tappet cams going flat are a common problem during break-in on newly rebuilt engines today. It's a easy, quick check.

John

You would have noticed a flat lobe.
The lifter clack would be really noisy way before the lifter hit the base circle of the cam.
 
OP
OP
D

dsenatore

Contributor
Jr. Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2002
Messages
75
Loc.
East Walpole
Hi Gang,
Just wanted to post a follow up. Still ran poorly after all the tricks. I brought it the guy that rebuilt the carb and they found some crud in there. I had taken the tanks out and cleaned them and added new senders when I got it back on the road in '18 but I'm thinking the Seafoam I was addding the gas may have ended up cleaning the fuel lines and that's where came from - who knows?

They also said I have low compression on #1 & 7 but I can't tell when driving it. Took it out for the day and it's running like a top. Brought me back to when I fist got it back on the road after redoing it in '97. Purring down the highway on a beautiful day, now that was nice!
Thanks again for your help!
David
 
Top