T-case REBUILD kit?

[matt w]

I do not know much at all BUT I purchased a TeraLow kit and figurerd I would not need to purchase a rebuild kit with the new TeraLow kit.

Is my thinking correct?

Thanks,

Matt W.

 

[70_Steve]

The TeraLow kit should include everything you need to completely rebuild the t-case, except for the bearings for the front and rear output shaft. You can get them at NAPA or Carquest.

 

[matt w]

The TeraLow kit should include everything you need to completely rebuild the t-case, except for the bearings for the front and rear output shaft. You can get them at NAPA or Carquest.

Hmmm?? is that advisable? And about how much would that be? Are they easy to install? I took the t-case out myself BUT I am having the upgrade done by a reputable shop.

Thanks,

Matt w.

 

[70_Steve]

Advisable? I dunno. It's your transfer case. If you trust the shop doing the work, let them tell you whether it needs bearings or not. But, you're already spending $750-$800 on gears, and (what was that) $225 in labor for installation. The new bearings will run $20-$25 apiece. (remember you need bearings and races). The shop might charge you a couple more dollars to install and set up the bearings.

Oh, and in addition to the bearings, you probably should get a set of shims for the front output shaft and another set of shims for the rear output shaft (they're different). If you do this, tell the shop to set up the rear output shaft for 5-7 inch/lb preload (like a differential pinion gear) instead of the Spicer spec of 0.003-0.005 in. end play.

 

[matt w]

Advisable? I dunno. It's your transfer case. If you trust the shop doing the work, let them tell you whether it needs bearings or not. But, you're already spending $750-$800 on gears, and (what was that) $225 in labor for installation. The new bearings will run $20-$25 apiece. (remember you need bearings and races). The shop might charge you a couple more dollars to install and set up the bearings.

Oh, and in addition to the bearings, you probably should get a set of shims for the front output shaft and another set of shims for the rear output shaft (they're different). If you do this, tell the shop to set up the rear output shaft for 5-7 inch/lb preload (like a differential pinion gear) instead of the Spicer spec of 0.003-0.005 in. end play.

...Thanks...I mwill call the guy to see what he says...I REALLY do not know what I am talking about...so I will get his inmput on the information you have given me.
Thank you!
Matt W.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Bearings:
Input- SKF #307NRJ
Rear output-Timken #25877 (inner), Timken #15117 (outer)
Front output, J shift-Timken #14116
Front output, T shift-Timken #14131

Cups:
Rear output-Timken #25821 (inner), Timken #15245 (outer)
Front output-Timken #14276

 

[matt w]

Advisable? I dunno. It's your transfer case. If you trust the shop doing the work, let them tell you whether it needs bearings or not. But, you're already spending $750-$800 on gears, and (what was that) $225 in labor for installation. The new bearings will run $20-$25 apiece. (remember you need bearings and races). The shop might charge you a couple more dollars to install and set up the bearings.

Oh, and in addition to the bearings, you probably should get a set of shims for the front output shaft and another set of shims for the rear output shaft (they're different). If you do this, tell the shop to set up the rear output shaft for 5-7 inch/lb preload (like a differential pinion gear) instead of the Spicer spec of 0.003-0.005 in. end play.

....ALSO..is me telling him the 5-7 inch/lb preload a big concern? Is this some hidden secret that he would not know? I want it doen proper but "since" I do not know what I am talking about what is the reason for the change OR like I said he has been established for well over 20 years...he knows his stuff...I'm the NEWBE on this venture.

 

[matt w]

Bearings:
Input- SKF #307NRJ
Rear output-Timken #25877 (inner), Timken #15117 (outer)
Front output, J shift-Timken #14116
Front output, T shift-Timken #14131

Cups:
Rear output-Timken #25821 (inner), Timken #15245 (outer)
Front output-Timken #14276

..THANK-YOU Vipe-man!;D

 

[Bronchole]

The factory specs call for end play, but the aftermarket has found that preload works better at keeping the t-case from jumping out of gear. At least that is what I found

Dan

 

[70_Steve]

....ALSO..is me telling him the 5-7 inch/lb preload a big concern? Is this some hidden secret that he would not know? I want it doen proper but "since" I do not know what I am talking about what is the reason for the change OR like I said he has been established for well over 20 years...he knows his stuff...I'm the NEWBE on this venture.

Since guys have been twin-sticking the Dana20's, there has been an increase in the transfer cases "popping out" of rear low. One of the forum members, nobody, figured out a cure of sorts. With the endplay, the rear output shaft can shift just a little, letting the rear sliding gear move. But with the preload on the bearings, the output shaft is held in place more ridgedly, and helps cure the t-case from popping out of rear low.

 

[matt w]

Since guys have been twin-sticking the Dana20's, there has been an increase in the transfer cases "popping out" of rear low. One of the forum members, nobody, figured out a cure of sorts. With the endplay, the rear output shaft can shift just a little, letting the rear sliding gear move. But with the preload on the bearings, the output shaft is held in place more ridgedly, and helps cure the t-case from popping out of rear low.

If that is the case is it harder to get it into low once the preload is changed? .... I did convert mine to twin-stick about 2 years ago but I am not so sure I noticed it popping out. I want to say 'YES"?? but even then I can't say it with certainty. Hmmmm?

 

[70_Steve]

If that is the case is it harder to get it into low once the preload is changed? .... I did convert mine to twin-stick about 2 years ago but I am not so sure I noticed it popping out. I want to say 'YES"?? but even then I can't say it with certainty. Hmmmm?

The preload on the rear output shaft has nothing to do with changing gears wtih the shifter. The preload holds the rear output shaft straighter, so the rear sliding gear doesn't "walk" off the intermediat gear so easily.