Tailgate Rattle Fix?

[DirtDonk]

Bedliner on the inside doesn’t change anything. You access the rods from the outside through the latch release handle mechanism.

I don’t think shrink tubing would be worth it. Most of the rods if I remember correctly, have at least one 90° bend in them. I think they have those at both ends, but it’s been a couple of years now, so I don’t remember the exact orientation.
Someone will have a picture though, so I’m sure it will prove out that shrink tubing would be awkward at best, and as was already said, too lightweight to make a big difference as you might want.
Unless you’re just talking about padding the very ends were they insert through the mechanisms?
In that case, they would absolutely make at least a small difference. It would change the pitch of the rattle, but I doubt it would get rid of it 100%.

I take that back. That would probably work very well if you got the sizing just right.
What mof us have done is simply weight and dampen the rods themselves.
Cushioning the ends where metal touches metal would be a great idea as well though.

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the reply.

The actual handle on the outside center of the Tailgate has a lot of play in it, and could be part of the rattle. Should there be a spring return, or something similar on the handle?

I've looked (although not very hard) for an exploded view of the tailgate release assembly. How are the rods inside the tailgate accessed? Only from the center latch and the ends?

Jeff

 

[DirtDonk]

Three sources for a loose floppy handle.
1. Improperly sized rods.
2. Worn out latches
3. Simply worn out handle.

You can test the rod size by opening the tailgate.
Is the handle still loose and floppy with the ability to move the handle without it moving the latches? If so, you may need to bend/kink the rods to tighten them up.
If it’s tight when you open the tailgate, but loose when you close it, that means the latches are not fully engaging the striker holes.
That’s tailgate adjustment 101 (advanced class!) and needs to be addressed first.
Obviously, if the handle is simply worn out, you need to replace it.

I think that covers the basics. I’m still tweaking the one on my 68 because everything is tight until it closes.
It’s hard to get the latches to fully clasp if the bedliner is in the way and holding it outward. Sound familiar?

If the tailgate surfaces are flush with the body corners on the outside (which is where you want them) and they’re not latching, you may need to space the strikers out a bit.

I think that’s where I’m at. I’ve got the tailgate adjusted to within an inch of its life, the latches themselves are pushed all the way inward as far as the adjustment will allow, but the angled latch strikers are still not allowing full engagement.
Short of a spacer, I could always enlarge the hole. I may go that route, but it depends on what is cleaner/easier.

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Paul,

I think it is likely the supports on each side. I can't believe how much slop/play/noise there is in them.

I think that will be my first effort.

Jeff

 

[DirtDonk]

First of all, do you have the rubber silencers in place?
These are the factory wedge shaped deely bobs that screw into the cavity of the tailgate.
They look like if you took a stylized image of a house and sliced it vertically down the middle that’s what you get.
I’m on my phone so don’t have any links to it on our website, but we all sell them.

 

[DirtDonk]

Do you own a set of them? If not, even though, that’s the first thing I do, it’s hard for me to recommend under these circumstances since you’re contemplating replacing the bar supports with the cable supports.
With the cable supports I don’t think you would need the wedge silencers.
But I don’t know, and I don’t remember anybody having said they had to remove the old ones to put in the cables.
Maybe someone here can clarify.

 

[Oldtimer]

factory wedge shaped deely bobs?

And there is a handle bumper that may stop some of the handle rattle:

 

[DirtDonk]

Oldtimer comes through again! Yep, those are the deely bobs.
And for the record, I used to smell spell them “dealy bobs” but my spellchecker changed it to the double-e version.

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Paul,

I need to look through some of the spare parts. The silencers are not installed now; but, I likely have them. I will take a look. It might be today, or maybe tomorrow before I can go through everything.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Jeff

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Oldtimer,

I will need to look for the handle bumper. Is is a stock part, or aftermarket?

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[Jeff10]

Hey Paul,

Well... this is a first. I found the rubber silencers in the first place I looked. I think I'll run out and buy some lottery tickets now. lol

I will look on the WH site... are these positioned about midway up the flange? There are actually two holes on each side. I haven't looked to see which one is in a better position. (One is more outbound on each side than the other.)

Thanks for pushing me in the right direction.

Jeff

 

[DirtDonk]

Cool beans to find of that quick!
Sorry I don’t have a picture handy, and I’m not right by my tailgate to take a picture of them installed. I’m sure there are pictures somewhere, and maybe Oldtimer can post one up.

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Again,

Both are installed. They really support the tailgate support links. I can't make them rattle. I will let you know later this week after a test drive with them installed.

Thanks everyone,

Jeff

 

[DirtDonk]

They definitely work. They rarely fix all the rattles from all the bumps, but they can reduce it by a lot.
Almost no matter what you do, there’s always a bump that has your (frequency) number!
And don’t forget to address the liftgate as well.
If you have a hardtop, they can both sound like each other.

 

[Oldtimer]

I will need to look for the handle bumper. Is is a stock part, or aftermarket?
Jeff

Wild Horses, though I suspect you can get them from any of the big 3 (WH, Tom's, JBG).

Tailgate Handle Bumper

Tailgates and Parts for 66-77 early Ford Broncos. Tailgate, hinge, handle, support, license plate lamp assembly, release rods, silencer, license plate frame.

www.wildhorses4x4.com

 

[Jeff10]

Hi Guys,

I took it for a drive this morning. The rattles are almost completely gone. Wow... what a difference.

Thanks for the input.

Jeff

 

[Torkman66]

Take out the rods and use long lengths of fuel line hose cut the entire length. Put the rubber hose over the length of the rods. It completely silences the rods from slapping against tail gate inside but does not affect operation. Cut out round pucks from 1/8" rubber or use large rubber washers that can fit inside the hinge cup. Key is to include enough rubber rounds on each side to completely remove left to right movement of the tail gate. You can also get the tailgate perfectly centered in the opening by increasing or decreasing the rubber on each side. They tighten up the hinges, and they move the tailgate left or right. Finally, you can carefully squeeze the hinge cup so that it is tight when the cup portion goes in.

 

[micon]

Replaced the rubber bumpers and the liftgate handle.no noise at all.if you have the swing out tire holder that’s a source of noise.I removed mine. My spare tire is a AAA card.

 

[Madgyver]

This is what Taz did.....