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Testing battery dain with multimeter

kaw550

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Messages
1,135
can seem to figure out how to use a multimeter to test for battery drain.

My multimeter died so I am using one got for free at harbor freight. I want to use it to test the amps that are being used. I pulled the positive cabe and I am connecting the meter between the positive battery post and the positive battery cable.

I tried a bunch of settings but they dont seem right.
 

MarsChariot

Contributor
Planetary Offroader
Joined
Oct 12, 2004
Messages
2,484
Loc.
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Usually I go across the negative post to some ground. The drains are usually in the mA range. A couple of weeks of that can pull a battery down. A couple of months will kill it.
 

mnido

Sr. Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2007
Messages
990
YouTube has some great how to videos on how to perform this test. I am having an issue with my daughters Jetta and watched some video's, also just ordered a multi tester from Harbor Frieght on line.
 

broncosbybart

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 13, 2002
Messages
2,644
Ah, all you really need is a simple test light. unhook the neg terminal and put the test light between the terminal of the battery and the unhooked cable end. if the light comes on bright, you have a big draw. even a minor draw can cause the light to come on dimly. Make sure everything is off in the vehicle, including a dome light, if so equipped (ie- not an EB).
 

oleguy74

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 26, 2008
Messages
2,034
Loc.
calif city ca
ammeter has to be in series.you are on the 20 miliamp range.there a thousand miliamps per amp.if your meter read 20 miliamps it would be 1/50 of an amp.disc neg cable from batt,connect ammeter neg to neg batt post,pos of ammeter to ground.you will need a meter that has a 10amp dc input.
 

bknbronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2011
Messages
4,378
Loc.
North Metro, MN
I just use a test light for that myself. Are you using a digital or analogue voltmeter? If its a digital one you might be in the wrong range.
 
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kaw550

kaw550

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Joined
Jul 4, 2007
Messages
1,135
I went back to the using the test light.

I have the alternator disconnected, radio disconnected and the steering column harness unplugged.

I disconnected the black wire from the battery side of the solenoid. The light went out.
I thought that it went to the fuse panel so I pulled each fuse one at a time. It stayed lit.
I then disconnected the wire harness from the headlight switch. The light went out.


So it appears it an an issue with a light....somewhere. Any tips to further isolate the issue?

If it is a bad bulb or socket would it still light?
 

Broncobowsher

Total hack
Joined
Jun 4, 2002
Messages
35,184
Plug the headlight switch back in, try giving the knob a twist (dome light and dimmer sweep). See if that changes the test light brightness.
 
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kaw550

kaw550

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No change. Unless I turn on the dome light switch or headlights. I confirmed all the lights are working.
 
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kaw550

kaw550

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Jul 4, 2007
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1,135
I disconnected the brake light switch, dome lights, hi/low beam switch. No change.
 

bknbronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2011
Messages
4,378
Loc.
North Metro, MN
something is running throught that light switch and im not the wiring expert. Or its something to do with that selinoid hooked up wrong. Did you check horn relay? Hopefully viperwolf will give a few ideas soon! Did you clean all your battery terminals?

Did you replace the voltage regulator yet? You said you still have a draw with the alternator unhooked right?
Unplug the regulator and check for voltage on the green-red wire with the key OFF. If you have voltage troubleshoot the ignition switch. If there is no voltage check for voltage on the orange wire. If you have voltage on the orange wire replace the alternator. If not plug the connector back in and check voltage on the "F" terminal of the regulator itself. Voltage on the "F" terminal means the regulator is bad.
 

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kaw550

kaw550

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I narrowed it down a little.
If I disconnect the harness from the headlight switch the test light goes out.
So,
I pulled the wires one at a time to see what wire was causing the issue.
If I pull the Black/Orange or the Yellow and Red wire the light will go out
I believe the Black/Orange is the source to the switch so that makes sense
The yellow and the red wire go to the same terminal so it is a little hard to diagnose without cutting one.

Yellow should be for the horn. I have disconnected the plug at the column and I disconnected the horn wires.

Red should be for light switch (I am thinking it is the brake light). I disconnected the wires there.

Not sure how they could cause the issue if everything is disconnected.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
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Nov 3, 2003
Messages
48,235
Odd one.
With the column connector disconnected, you should not have a problem with the horn contact going to ground.
With the brake light switch disconnected (you did pull that 2-wire plug, right? You should not get any feed to that circuit.

However, there is always the possibility of the plastic/phenolic-resin connector housing thingies being so old and carbon traced, or a crack has formed between two contacts, that a little bleed-over is being allowed.

Less likely in the type of plastic they use in the column connector, but hey, what the heck. Pull the horn wire out of the connector to see if it's shorted to one of the other wires somehow.

Yeah, I know, those are such long-shots as to be too crazy to even contemplate.
But so is any kind of a short to air, which is virtually what you're finding at this point.
Which is why you might want to give it a try.

For precedence, I've experienced two occasions when the plastic of an electrical component became a conductor. One was the fiber body of a points set on a motorcycle. I forget what the second one was, but remember it baffling me for a time.

Try a known-good headlight switch too, if you can beg, borrow or steal one.
Maybe it's still in there somewhere. Maybe not, but it'd be nice to know for sure.

And while you're at all this, run a fresh ground wire from the dash to the body too.
You never know where those pesky electrons are going to try to run when things become sort of un-grounded.

Good luck. Good detective work btw. Lots of work, but you're sure narrowing it down.

Paul
 
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