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The dreaded quarter seam rust fix

casadejohnson

Bronco Alchemist
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
3,587
I'm working on removing rust from my 74 and I'm starting with the quarter panel seam rust. I actually was not planning on starting this project for a while but some of my seam sealer came out with some rust attached to it and I started messing with it. Two hours later the whole panel was sanded to bare metal. I guess there's no going back now. I have taken all of the seam sealer out and used a wire wheel to remove most of the rust but I know some rust still lurks where the wire wheel does not reach it. Do you think it can be sealed with POR 15 or another rust converter/sealer product? I have read about welding the seam but I've never seen a bronco with this done. I'm thinking about doing that or maybe "leading" it with body solder. Anybody here tried that? Let me know what you think would be the best permanent repair.
 

72_EB

Contributor
66to77
Joined
Feb 4, 2003
Messages
4,963
To really stop is it (or the best way to try) is to attack it from the backside. They rust at the seam because how the upper and lower quarter panels are sandwiched and welded together. Moisture gets in there and starts rusting it out. Take a wheel off and take a flashlight back there and see how they fit together from the inside of the quarter panel. If you don't stop the junk from getting in from the inside, it will come back no matter what you do to the front.
 

malcolmzilla

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 18, 2003
Messages
1,522
Loc.
Calgary, AB, Canada
Echoing 72_EB, if you've addressed the backside moisture intrusion, then I used seam sealer on the front side. Laid some tape, beaded it in good n slow, then a wet finger to smooth it and peeled the tape for a nice line.
 

allenfahey

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 18, 2004
Messages
2,672
The only way to prevent more rust is to remove all rust. Media blasting it is the best way. POR-15 it and after it dries, sand it, prime it. Just before paint use seam sealer as malco described. At work we use Fusor800. It is applied with regular caulking gun and remains flexable and is paintable in about 30-45 minutes.

The best way to put new 1/4's on is to use panel adhesive. It will squeeze out and there's no way for moisture to get in there from the wheel well area. Very poor design from Ford!
 
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casadejohnson

casadejohnson

Bronco Alchemist
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
3,587
I've worked on the rust from the rear some but Pulling the wheel and really getting to it is probably what I'll do next. Would it be possible to weld the seam from the front and just remove the lip on the back where the two panels are sandwiched/welded together? I'm a little concerned about warping the panel but it should eliminate the rust, correct?
 

DCarter001

New Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
39
Loc.
Baxley, GA
I tried welding that seam from the outside and was not pleased with the results. I'm going to end up seam sealing both inside and out after I get the driver's quarter replaced.
 

fordtrucks4ever

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Messages
1,280
Loc.
DFW
If you follow directions with POR-15, it wont be much trouble to fix. They make it paste form in a tube thats ideal for seams on both sides of the panel. If done correctly, its a permenant fix. If I were doing it, the sandblaster would be used to remove anything that wasnt solid metal, then POR-15 paste the seam. I would also use regular filtered playbox sand.
 
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casadejohnson

casadejohnson

Bronco Alchemist
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
3,587
I was thinking the sand blaster would be a good place to start. I plan on working on it this weekend but its suposed to get up over 100 so we will have to see if I can stay motivated in the heat.
 

Slick

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 24, 2002
Messages
2,196
Loc.
Petoskey, MI
I went the SAME rought...

I stripped all the seam sealer, got it all to the best of my ability, drilled in from behind and THEN sand/media blasted from EVERY angle you could get the blaster and followed it ALL with rusk killer spray...

Guess what, that was 3 yrs ago and it is now BACK as bad as when I started!!!

THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT IS NEW SHEET METAL IE: THE WHOLE FENDER!!!!! Bed rail down! Or cut away the WHOLE strip and grind down to BARE metal all along the botom of the bedrail section where the rear fender is pinch welded and replace it ALL with new metal. BUT it's easier to just get new rear fenders alltogether!

IT WILL BE YOUR BEST SHOT at getting RID of the rust in that location! THE ONLY WAY! as per my exp any how :(

:cool:
-ps-
I don't even drive mine in the winter!
 

ryan_289

Full Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
315
Loc.
Russellville, AR
What is the best way to remove seam sealer? I need to remove some from my QTR panel seams and the drip rail in my top so I can sandblast the seams out.
 

Slick

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 24, 2002
Messages
2,196
Loc.
Petoskey, MI
start with a knife, you can usually get it up like calk around a tub then go with a wire brush attachment for the drill. After that you should be ready for meda blasting, then finnaly apply rust killer and hope for the best.

Keep in mind that the pinch welded portion is the part that harbors the rust! Ideally you need to get in there! ...which is immpossible!

You'll prolly get about 1 maybe 2 years before you see it comming back! :(


...but I digress


:cool:
 

Mark

Contributor
Bronco Klutz
Joined
Aug 29, 2003
Messages
5,414
Loc.
NW Indiana
THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT IS NEW SHEET METAL IE: THE WHOLE FENDER!!!!! Bed rail down! Or cut away the WHOLE strip and grind down to BARE metal all along the botom of the bedrail section where the rear fender is pinch welded and replace it ALL with new metal. BUT it's easier to just get new rear fenders alltogether!
Slick and 72_EB are correct.
To get rid of the rust completely and not have it come back is to get rid of the rust from inside the seam (in the wheel well) and seal that also. And the ONLY way to do it "permanently", correctly with satisfactory results is to replace the entire quarter panel. If you do not, then the rust will reappear. I replaced the rear quarter panels and it is not joyful, but I sealed the hell out of the seam inside and out and I used POR15. Been one year, so far so good.
BTW I drive mine in the winter - salt, snow, ice and all. %)
 

Slick

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 24, 2002
Messages
2,196
Loc.
Petoskey, MI
If you had the money, you could always get it chemically dipped. That will remove all the rust in every nook and cranny

:eek: :eek: :eek:

what dose it cost to dip an entire TUB in acid? I had my bike frame dipped WAY BACK in the day for free... but that was the local machine shop and my dad took a hunk of slag out of 1 of the machinests eyes after a grinding miss-hap.

I can't immajone that would be too cheap to have done!!! PLUS you'd need to seal EVERYTHING SOON after it hits the air agin... or else the whole process starts over!

Besides, dosen't that also eat off the galvinizeing the factory applied as well??


:cool:

sounds like a cool idea tho! ;D
 

Madgyver

Bronco Madman
Joined
Jul 30, 2001
Messages
14,746
I brazed mines shut.

Clean it out the best that you can, Coat it with 'Extend'
My plan was to fill it with body filler but that area may want to flex so I thought of welding it.
I decided to to braze it with oxy/acet a little at a time not to warp the area.
I shoved a 1/8" brazing rod along and into the gap and used a smaller diameter rod to braze it in. Used Rage to bodyfill and smooth.
To take care of the under the fender area. I did a manual cleaning with a wire brush, blew it dry and clear and spray thick undercoating.
 

Raskew

Sr. Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2002
Messages
594
Loc.
Vancouver, B.C.
I don't know about in your area, but here it cost around $2000 at a place called redi strip. Here's a blurb from their website explaining the process.

Non-Destructive Paint Stripping and Degreasing
Redi-Strip Metal Cleaning offers the most complete paint removal process in the industry without pitting or warping. Each steel part is completely submerged in our hot caustic bath ensuring contact with hidden areas such as seams, rolled edges and boxed channels.
Aluminum parts and pot metal castings are stripped in our cold bath. These parts must be kept separate from steel body products. (ID tags must be removed)

Pressure Washing
All parts are individually pressure-washed with filtered water after every dip process. Special attention to seams ensures that the part is truly free of contaminates.

Non-Destructive Rust Removal
After steel parts are free of paint, grease, dirt and undercoating, only the rust remains to be removed. Our non-destructive electrolytic derusting bath removes the rust from wherever the solution touches. Because the part is fully immersed in the bath every inch is cleaned. Fissures and cracks that were not previously detected are now exposed and the affected areas are ready for repair.

Zinc-Phosphating (Optional)
For superior paint adhesion and underpaint corrosion protection, our microcrystalline zinc-phosphating bath is the perfect complement to your newly cleaned steel part. The bath converts the steel surface into an electrically non-conductive, crystalline coating. This provides a much stronger surface for paint and insulates the steel from underpaint corrosion. Because the part is fully immersed, the solution gets into hard-to-reach areas, further enhancing corrosion protection. Acid etching primers are not recommended for zinc-phosphate coatings. As a value-added service, Redi-Strip offers a spray applied iron-phosphate coating that provides excellent results.
 
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casadejohnson

casadejohnson

Bronco Alchemist
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
3,587
I thought about the acid dip method but It sounds pretty cost prohibative. Today, I removed the rust from my passenger side inner fender skirt where it joins to the kick panel. I was able to cut it all out and weld in a new piece of metal. I think its solid and should hold up fine. It would appear that I'm going to need to replace the front amd rear door pilars as well so, I'm going to work my way back and deal with the seam when I get to it. Anybody have experience with the replacement of the front door post? I notice that the price of the replacement pillars has a pretty wide range from one vendor to the next. If you have done this replacement, please post your opinion on how well the parts fit and where you got them. I would like to order the least expensive parts but I would gladley pay a little more for the parts that fit best.
 
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