The Tricky EcoBoost Early Bronco Build

[Tricky Dick]

I rewired my trailer and test loaded the 6G in preparation of running the Rubicon in October. It's tight but it fits. The EB should fit a little better. I still need to build the single axle I've been gathering parts for.

I got my spare RAZR mounted up on one of the bored beadlocks. Need to take the other 4 in to be dismounted.

One of the other 2.3EB swaps out there is nearing the end and providing some inspiration. They really fit well.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Let's get up to speed. A buddy paid me to put a 5.5" lift on his 74,it's a bit tall for my liking but he's happy.

I can't remember if I posted before, but my Ranger diff was kinda cheesy on the bottom, so I plated that with 3/8". I picked up this Tooliom welder which I've been hearing raving reviews on and burned it in with nickel rod. I threw a couple stitches on the tube too but didn't have enough to go all the way around. It worked amazing. It's getting geared Saturday.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Mixed results from gearing day. The M220 is done, went together smoothly. The D44 fought us and we gave up upon finding the Detroit I was told was a 4.10 and higher was actually a 3.73 and lower. Talked to the guy and he's willing to swap it plus $100 cash for a 4.10 TJ air locker with all the wring and pump. IDK how good those lockers are but it's a way out of this bind.

 

[Yeller]

Mixed results from gearing day. The M220 is done, went together smoothly. The D44 fought us and we gave up upon finding the Detroit I was told was a 4.10 and higher was actually a 3.73 and lower. Talked to the guy and he's willing to swap it plus $100 cash for a 4.10 TJ air locker with all the wring and pump. IDK how good those lockers are but it's a way out of this bind.

The TJ lockers are ok until they aren’t. The fronts were better but I think it’s because they were used less. The pressure was weird, like way minimal if I remember correctly. I’d run one.

 

[Tricky Dick]

The TJ lockers are ok until they aren’t. The fronts were better but I think it’s because they were used less. The pressure was weird, like way minimal if I remember correctly. I’d run one.

He has the pump and everything. I'll give it a try.

 

[stout22]

Based on experience with friends with TJs - carry an extra pump.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Based on experience with friends with TJs - carry an extra pump.

I'm going backwards here. I went and swapped it and then did a deep dive. The amount of work to get them working in a regular housing is a bit much, and.....it still needs thick cut gears. It's going on ebay and I ordered a Zip Locker, found a new one for $700.

 

[Yeller]

You’ll like that better anyway.

 

[Tricky Dick]

I'm having bad thoughts. I've been searching the site and haven't seen anyone that's done this, but I'm considering trying modern Tacoma leaves in the back. 2-3/8" width so I could probably shoehorn them in the front hanger. Good for about 3.5ish inches of stretch. At about 55" long the new rear hanger would fall just behind the bumper.

Or just chop the old hangers off and put standard 2.5" hangers wherever I want and it opens up a lot more options.

 

[Yeller]

It’s a tough call. I’d rather have links and coils if going to remove spring hangers. Even if using take off OEM parts. As an example, I’m running JK rear springs in the bronco and my J truck front suspension uses take off stock JK control arms. It can be done affordably and will out perform a leaf spring.

 

[Tricky Dick]

It’s a tough call. I’d rather have links and coils if going to remove spring hangers. Even if using take off OEM parts. As an example, I’m running JK rear springs in the bronco and my J truck front suspension uses take off stock JK control arms. It can be done affordably and will out perform a leaf spring.

4 link is the eventual goal I just didn't want to commit the time and money to it right now. I guess the sensible thing would be to slap it together with what I have and be that much closer to a driver.

 

[Yeller]

Get it running and driving, then chew on other upgrades. Keep it moving forward.

Getting ready to do a 1 ton swap, 3 link front 4 link rear, start on a Friday and should be wheeling a shakedown the following Friday. The owner has doubts, my confidence is high, we will be ordering driveshafts on Monday.

PS this is happening in a few weeks, made it sound like this week lol

 

[Tricky Dick]

Turning attention back to the front, I have some of the ubiquitous F250 shock towers which will give me 10" from frame to eye, but I'm wondering if I should go with something like this from Ruffstuff and get 12". They would just about touch the top of the inner fender, perfect fit. Barnes has basically the exact same thing but 14" and with an obnoxious logo. Both are 1/4" and would support a coilover when the day comes...

 

[Yeller]

my vote is whatever gets you a 12” shock. IMO that’s the sweet spot of manageable travel with manageable packaging. Also allows you to run a shock with decent valving that you’ll be happy with and not break the bank. The high end stuff is available if desired and can be added at any time.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Just got done loosely bolting the rear together, won't be able to lock it down and burn the perches in until my t-case is installed. I have the =/- 1" perches and drilled new holes to get +2".

I put jack stands under the axle to simulate tire height and set it on it's own weight. It's sitting taller than I anticipated, about 47" at the body line. I picked up the leaves years ago and was told they were 2" lift but they might be more. I'll have to play with it a bit after getting the front together. I would be happier with 45-46" ish, but I suppose there's a little more weight to add so no need to be concerned yet.

 

[Tricky Dick]

I just can't win. Tried to finish the D44 today and I forgot the ring gear bolt sleeves (3/8 vs 7/16 carrier holes). No matter, I couldn't get the ring gear on the carrier anyway. It fit the Detroit and the TJ locker fine.

 

[Tricky Dick]

I started asking around and the consensus is I just need to heat the ring gear, it's normal. I haven't experienced it myself in about 10 ring gear fit ups so I didn't know.

In the spirit of "get it done quickly", I pivoted on my original thoughts for the radius arms. I was planning on +12 Lars Bars with flex joints, but I'm just going to extend the stockers 3.5" and put them in the original brackets for now. I can always revisit it later. I found photos of some threaded/welded extensions on here which seem to be out of production but I'll try to copy that idea.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Last Bronco things for a week, heading to Cabo tomorrow.

More mockups. The front end was sitting much lower on the jackstands than the rear so I raised it up and put the body line at 45". Between that and the leaves settling a little the rear is now at 46". If I can keep it there for the finished product I'll be pleased.

That means those 5.5" coils are never going to work. The axle to frame gap in the rear is exactly 8", confirming they are 2" springs, so in theory with my +2" coil buckets I need about a 4" spring. I foolishly gave my 3.5" coils to a buddy for his BII, so I either sell/trade these for another set of 3.5" or cut them. There's a good chance they were already too stiff with my lightweight power train so cutting would only make it worse. It will probably take some trial and error. Maybe I'll find something at the NV Super Cel.

I ordered those Ruffstuff shock towers. Mocked up with the F250 towers anyway. The frame rail is pretty roomy with the steering box pushed so far forward.

 

[Tricky Dick]

I know I said no more updates but I had an idea yesterday and the part showed up tonight.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Finally done gearing this dang thing. Didn't like the pattern, drive/coast were centered in the tooth depth wise but offset the other way, but according to the charts that's OK.