thermostat housing LEAKS!!!!!

[soulflybro]

i recently had to change my thermostat because i think that it was sticking closed, causing overheating problems. Well, i cleaned off both surfaces, got a new gasket, used gasket sealant on each side, tightened it down, (not too tight, the housing isnt cracked) and the mother fucker will not stop leaking. I have done this 3 times now, and you have to wait 24 hours supposedly for the sealant to cure, and its really becoming a pain in the ass. Do any of you guys have any tips on this procedure? its SO simple, yet it still doesnt go right, along with everything else i do to the bronco.<br>THANKS!!!

 

[c2computer]

I had the same issue, over and over. I switched to one of those fancy chrome ones with the O-ring. Put a little Ultra Black on the ring and where the bolts go through, has never leaked again. Plus, you can replace the O ring if you ever need to.<br><br>Make sure your manifold is smooth and sand it if you need to.

 

[DPM77]

c2c has it. I used the original housing, Ultra Copper Hi Temp, and sanded both surfaces. Be sure to use a sanding block so you are sanding flat, not creating dips. Good luck!<br><br>dpm

 

[Waverous]

I had the same issue until I used the aftermarket chrome housing and O ring

 

[wildbill]

: : : When you take it off this time get some fine sand paper and a flat service and sand it to make sure it is true and that should fix it use a little blue rtv and you should be good to go good luck. : : : Bill 8) :

 

[72bronco]

I have the fancy little chrome housing and had the same problems with leaking. I ditto the earlier answers to your post. Sand it smooth and use RTV on the O ring and both sides of the gasket.

 

[Landshark]

[quote author=wildbill link=board=5;threadid=12664;start=0#94604 date=1041030705]<br> : : : When you take it off this time get some fine sand paper and a flat service and sand it to make sure it is true and that should fix it use a little blue rtv and you should be good to go good luck. : : : Bill 8) : <br>[/quote]<br><br>Ditto, you should use a straight edge and make sure it's not warped.

 

[BwoncoHowie]

If you have one of those chrome ones made out of pot metal, throw it in the garbage, they warp as soon as you tighten the bolts.

If you have an "O" ring type use the o-ring + RTV but no gasket, check it for flatness with a steel ruler or straight edge, and flat sand it if needed. Some O-ring types are made of pot metal, these types are still a Piece of cr@p, but some people have had success with them. I wouldn't run one on my rig if you paid me.

With an aluminum or cast iron housing, flat sand it if necessary. Use Felpro gasket #35067 and permatex, or KW copper coat, apply it directly to the gasket, or RTV sparingly works also. Sometimes I will use a little sealer to glue the thermostat into the stepped recess so it won't fall out of place when you are trying to position the gasket and housing.

Start both bolts and draw them down evenly, then snug the lower one first and tighten both evenly, this is the key.

I just replaced a thermostat on Thursday to one of my rigs. With those sealers mentioned above don't wait 24 hours for the sealer to cure. Assemble, fill and drive it immediately. Been there done that many times.

BH

Rulebreaker below also has an excellent tip. ;D

If your thermostat relief is in the intake manifold and not the housing, its better to stick the thermostat in place with sealer like mentioned above.

 

[rulebreaker]

This makes it easier! Put a heavy rubber band through the thermostate then lay the thermostate in the housing pull the ends of the rubber band through the housing and put a pen or bolt through the rubber band to hold in place. Then take everyone elses recomendations and put her together!