Tie rod/drag link question

[FORD*DIEHARD]

So the other day I took MY GURL out of the barn (finally) to drive her and as I turned the steering wheel I heard a (clunk sound). Noticed the driver side rubber bushing was cracked hanging on.

So looking to see what she needs I want to say I purchased this from Wild Horses but I am sure vendors sell the same thing so not forsure. Since I am here I want to "do it right" since running new parts with old parts put unneeded stress and wear out of each other so I plan on replacing both ends and maybe even the drag link end. Is this a good idea? From the parts that are currently on her are there (upgraded ends to put on) with tougher seals that don't crack as easily?

I have attached some videos/pictures of what I have.

I tried uploading a longer video to show the movement/noise while turning the steering wheel but it says TOO LARGE to attach.

Thank you in advance for your time/help,

Sonny

 

[thegreatjustino]

Three way adjustable setup from Wild Horses. Replace the boots, grease them up through the zerks, and you'll probably be good.

 

[DirtDonk]

Sorry to hear. Unfortunately though, many of them die a much earlier death than they used to.
However, I do see something that would probably have accelerated the wear. The angle of the lower section of the draglink. Or more correctly, the angle of the tie-rod centerline.
I thought I remembered talking about it in your case, but it’s been brought up often enough that I might not be remembering correctly.

Basically, the main tie-rod needs to rotate “up” so that the lower draglink points up at a sixty degree angle. Essentially pointing up at the bottom of the radiator.
This mimics the original tie-rod angle and serves to reduce the instance, and severity of the tie-rod “rolling” each time you turn the wheel in the opposite direction.

So when you have the ends out to replace the boots, loosen the adjusting sleeves and change the angle slightly when it’s going back together.

 

[DirtDonk]

Oh, and hopefully someone has a link to some of the previous discussions where members found aftermarket boots that fit and supposedly lasted longer.
We used to stock spares, but I have not seen them in quite a while.

 

[SLOWnEASY]

Hey DirtDonk, is this the part you're referring to rotating up around 60 degrees? I'm assuming you are basically saying the grease fitting should be pointed up toward the radiator to line the joint between the two links.

 

[DirtDonk]

That’s exactly right. Rotating it up to that position, mimics the original angle of the factory tie rod and drag link. This angle is a compromise between straight horizontal and/or vertical and serves to minimize non-linear tie rod movement.
Having it oriented straight ahead, like most shops seem to want think it belongs, literally pulls up and pushes down on the tie rod every time you switch directions with the steering wheel. You can even do an experiment and watch the difference in movement.
Before rotating it up, you can have someone steer back-and-forth like doing the wiggle test, and watch the tie rod get yanked up and pushed down. After the change, you can watch the same action and note how it’s been drastically reduced.

You can take the opportunity, while changing the angle, to loosen all three adjusting slaves, rotate just that center section up and still make sure that all four of the rod ends themselves maintain a fairly neutral position in their sockets.
Then tighten everything back down once the grease fitting is pointed up at the radiator life should be better.

It’s always suggested to do the wiggle test before this kind of work anyway. This lets you see whether anything actually needs being replaced other than the dust boots.
Under normal circumstances, a split or missing dust boot doesn’t immediately wear out the joint. That takes a lot of time.
However, with the misaligned tie rod causing lots of Monkey motion at the rod ends, twisting up and down, as well as pushing side to side, the wear can be increased fairly dramatically.
This is why, at least in my experience, using the “GM 1 ton“ tie rod conversion tends to wear out rod ends more quickly than other types of linkage.
Because the drag link mounts in a hole originally intended for the steering stabilizer shock, which is permanently oriented in the forward facing direction and cannot be changed.
At least not easily!

 

[Bruners4]

While putting mine together, new tie rod ends were installed but never greased or driven on for 2~3 years. Final inspection found them cracked just like yours. Brand new rubber boots! I found some poly replacements. I'll look for the part number.
I think these might be the ones. https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.13101