Tie rod over knuckle steering

[Bitch'nBronco]

So, I'd like to swap out my OE steering linkage for a heim/dom tube tierod over knuckle. The old one is super sloppy and unpredictable under heavy braking so its time to upgrade. I was planning on going with the trail proof bulletproof steering setup but I also just saw that toms is making a tierod over knuckle set up. Does anyone have experience with either? I know that BC Broncos makes them, but I'm not a fan of the tab welded to the middle of the tie rod. They're all comparatively priced but I basically just need help choosing. Thanks

http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/steering-linkage-heim-joint-style-76-77-disc-brake-front-end

http://bulletproofsteering.com/steeringoption.html

 

[70_Steve]

You might also consider this. http://www.stonecrushersteering.com

Made by CB.com member Thumping.

 

[KyleQ]

Couldn't a guy get the tubing, hiems and adapters and do it himself at a fraction of a cost?

Looks like you could get all the hardware for ~$120 and then just the tubing...

 

[70_Steve]

Couldn't a guy get the tubing, hiems and adapters and do it himself at a fraction of a cost?

Looks like you could get all the hardware for ~$120 and then just the tubing...

You are right. If "a guy" has the fabrication facilities and the skills, then the steering links could be made for some fraction of the cost of purchasing from a vendor. But if, for example, you don't have a welder or don't know how to weld, then building the links (using adapters) would neither be cost effective or safe.

Or if "a guy" chose to tap the inside of the tubing, rather than weld adapters, then again, adding the cost of the taps to the project might make it more expensive to build than buy.

And also consider that most of the vendors offer these steering links powercoated, so that cost needs to be factored in if we're to compare apples to apples. I don't know what it would cost to have two steering links powercoated, but I'm having some valve covers powercoated, and it will cost me $85, which is about the average cost here in Phoenix.

 

[KyleQ]

I know all of those points would come up - but people know people and the community is strong and we help eachother.

I can weld, I can tap, I can machine, I can even powder coat - so it was just a question. I would rather ask some friends or meet some new people in assistance in saving ~$200+ Bronco bucks!

$85 to powder coat valve covers

I powder coat at home and know what the material cost is negligable, seriously negligable to coat covers. Then its just time in the oven - should look nice though.


Obviously vendors exsist for a reason - I continiously buy parts from them too, I was just thinking out loud after lookng at the prices people are asking...

 

[garberz]

You might also consider this. http://www.stonecrushersteering.com

Made by CB.com member Thumping.

X2 on the Stone Crusher system. It looks like the same as the TBP's link. I have the steering and track bar on my 76'.

My steering geometry didn't like the TRO location. The steering arms sit pretty high already, so leaving it TRU is still up out of the way compared to earlier 44's. You'll also need 1/4" wheel spacers if your running 15" rims, depending on wheel offset. I needed them with 3 3/4" backspacing.

Mark

 

[Adarcy]

So, I'd like to swap out my OE steering linkage for a heim/dom tube tierod over knuckle. The old one is super sloppy and unpredictable under heavy braking so its time to upgrade. I was planning on going with the trail proof bulletproof steering setup but I also just saw that toms is making a tierod over knuckle set up. Does anyone have experience with either? I know that BC Broncos makes them, but I'm not a fan of the tab welded to the middle of the tie rod. They're all comparatively priced but I basically just need help choosing. Thanks

http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/steering-linkage-heim-joint-style-76-77-disc-brake-front-end

http://bulletproofsteering.com/steeringoption.html

I'm running the tom's kit above. Install was a breeze and the steering difference was much better over my factory setup. I will say the heim's seem small and are already showing some surface rust after 5 months, but the rest of the kit is great.

 

[quikdrummer]

If you can cut a piece of tube and weld in some bungs, I recommend RuffStuff

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/78STEER.html

thats what Im running on my rig and its great, and saves a few bucks over the prefabbed kits

 

[bknbronco]

I did the GM 1TON steering myslef for around $250 with the raemer. I recomend extreme customs.

http://extremecustomparts.com/c-169...s-7-8-18-taps-nuts-adapters-d-o-m-tubing.html

 

[Bitch'nBronco]

I would build my own but my welder is back in Colorado and I don't have a die big enough to tap the tubes. I'm interested in the stone crusher system, I'm going to start researching it. Seems like most systems are within $40-50 of eachother.

 

[KyleQ]

I'm running the tom's kit above. Install was a breeze and the steering difference was much better over my factory setup. I will say the heim's seem small and are already showing some surface rust after 5 months, but the rest of the kit is great.

After having a hiem setup steering I will recommend TRE's over them every time, hiems rust and then get sloppy - TRE's hold up much better. I'll probably go the 1 ton Chevy TRE route-

 

[garberz]

The Stone Crusher system is threaded DOM. Nothing is welded. He's not a fan of welding on steering linkage. I wouldn't be surprised if Stone Crusher is the supplier for TBP's. He uses left and right threads for easy adjust ability. I can't say the same for others that I have worked on.

 

[Rox Crusher]

Our club got together and did a bunch (I think 7?) of these TRO conversions in one very long day.

We got the TRE components from RoughStuff and cut the tubes and welded the ends in ourselves.

It was easy and we each saved a couple Benjamins !

 

[xcntrk]

The Stone Crusher system is threaded DOM. Nothing is welded. He's not a fan of welding on steering linkage. I wouldn't be surprised if Stone Crusher is the supplier for TBP's. He uses left and right threads for easy adjust ability. I can't say the same for others that I have worked on.

+1

You have to split the rod-end systems into 2 groups, those with 1 piece tube construction vs. those with welded bungs for the rod ends. The 1 piece construction is far superior as each tube end is machined for the Heim joint to thread right in, where as 2 piece has a welded bung which could "theoretically" fail. The downside to the 1 piece construction is the cost since each link is purpose built to your dimensions. But that said, having a 1-piece rod-end system with no welds, grade-9 HW, plus safety washers has got to be far superior to anything else including TRE based steering.

 

[ScanmanSteven]

I used the BC Broncos steering setup and have been happy with it. I didn't mind the weld as I felt the tall stud sticking up with a tie rod caused a lot of leverage. With research you could probably do your own as others have, but at the time BCB was the best option for me.

 

[ScanmanSteven]

I used the BC Broncos steering setup and have been happy with it. I didn't mind the weld as I felt the tall stud sticking up with a tie rod caused a lot of leverage. With research you could probably do your own as others have, but at the time BCB was the best option for me. Also, I didn't need to use spacers on my 76.

 

[4x4livn]

What about the track bar mount? Doesnt it get in the way?

 

[Adarcy]

After having a hiem setup steering I will recommend TRE's over them every time, hiems rust and then get sloppy - TRE's hold up much better. I'll probably go the 1 ton Chevy TRE route-

When and if I break my Dana 30 and move to a 44 that will probably be the route I take.

 

[DirtDonk]

What about the track bar mount? Doesnt it get in the way?

Yes, they often do.
The two common fixes are to cut the stud down slightly and use a thinner nut, or cut it down to the nub after installing a trackbar riser in place of a trackbar drop bracket.

How much interference obviously depends on the thickness of the tube too, but these days most of the tubes being talked about here are pretty healthy and can tag the bolt when steered hard.

Another clearance issue that crops up sometimes is lower shock mounts that have been welded to the front radius arm caps. Fewer people use that type of mount nowadays, but there are probably still a lot of Broncos out there that have them.

Paul

 

[DirtDonk]

I used the BC Broncos steering setup and have been happy with it. I didn't mind the weld as I felt the tall stud sticking up with a tie rod caused a lot of leverage. With research you could probably do your own as others have, but at the time BCB was the best option for me.

A lot of people feel the same way.
I believe that one of the main reasons for Chuck's design is to keep the draglink as close to the same length as the trackbar. Keeping things traveling in the same arc. As originally designed by Ford.
I'm sure he or someone can confirm or deny that report, but that's what I thought.

Paul