tie rod replacement questions

[Gweiner]

Just bought the WH 3-way adjustable steering linkage which includes the tie rod ends. My question (sorry if this a dumb one): is there a specific torque spec on the tie rods?

Also, i have no idea how to measure toe or how much toe i need so i am simply measureing he old linkage setup nd trying to be as close as i can. Figure i will have it aligned after i finish everything. Still need to replace ps box with a new 4x4x2 and new lower shaft.

Appreciate all the help everyone on this site has given a stunod ike me!

 

[bknbronco]

id torque it tight as you can get it with a 1/2" wrench.....maybe 50 or 60 ftlbs on a bolt that size then a tad tighter until the cotter pin fits.

toe in set around 1/8"-1/4". Some tires have a nice center strip you can go off some don't. Some might have a good lug you can go off. Measure in the center of the tire in front and back of the wheel and adjust till the front measures 1/8" less. You can take a piece of tape and put on each wheel and make a mark on that. Measure the tap in front.....roll truck forward till tape is in back and remeasure. You may have to drive truck out of garage and back it after you adjust the tie rod to allow the tires to go where there gona go.

The drag link you adjust to center the wheel with the center of the steering box.

The trac bar you adjust to center the tires under the body. I use a broom stick and hold it vertical against my tires, and compare the fender lip on both sides. I have about 1/2" gap on both sides from stick to the fender so I know im centered.

No point in a alignment since they really cant do anything you cant do yourself in a few minutes.....they probably wont even know the correct numbers to set things at anyways.

 

[Gweiner]

Thanks Bknbronco! I removed the old drag link and steering linkage with the bronco sitting on the ground. Should I re-install the new linkage on the ground or with the weight off the front end to make the adjustments to the toe-in or have the bronco on stands)? Stupid question I am sure so don't laugh!

Lastly, how does one tighten the tie-rod ends when they spin freely? I ended up cutting the old ones off with a cut off wheel after trying in vain to losses the nut. Yes, I pulled the pin...

 

[bknbronco]

ya do it all with the bronco on the ground

when the TRE's spin I grab my huge channel lock and put pressure on the TRE.....that usually is enough to get the nut off and not destroy a newerTRE. If there old and the nuts are rusted then cutting off is fine.

When you tighten your new ones they shouldn't spin, but if they do just clamp them...that puts pressure on the tapered bolt and holds it from spinning.

The 3-way adjustable one you have is nice because you don't have to remove drag lings or tie rods to adjust. Id coat the threads with antisieze before installation.

Center your steering box then adjust the drag link to fit in the pitman arm then make small adjustment to the tie rod to set toe-in. Then center steering wheel if need be. You can adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel but the box is designed to be slightly tighter in the center of its range of motion to keep your truck tight when driving straight, so its best to keep the box centered and pull the steering wheel if need be.

 

[DirtDonk]

Like he said, you can clamp them tight to keep them from spinning, but I usually have my floor jack handy when I'm working on a front end anyway, so typically just raise the jack underneath until the pressure stops the spinning.

It also makes a big difference to make sure you don't have any hard debris inside the hole. Even if the old one just came off and the new one is going straight on right away, I still have the habit of running my finger and a rag around the tapered hole to make sure it's clean.

Torque on the rod end nut really only needs to be 40lbs and then further if necessary to align the pin. But if bkn has used 60lbs successfully over the years, it's probably not an issue. In fact, if the holes don't line up right away anyway, you might get one within that range anyway. Doesn't take much of a turn to run from 45 to 60 sometimes!
Don't back off to align a cotter pin hole though, unless there is no choice.

The adjusting sleeve clamps need to be tight enough to compress the split-sleeve to really grip the threads. They may not need to be as tight as the rod ends, but they're probably close. 25 to 35 maybe?

Anybody have a Ford shop manual they can verify those numbers with? The Haynes is useless and the Chilton's only lists the rod end nut.

Paul

 

[Gweiner]

Thanks guys, great advice. Shoot - one last question (Promise!), should I ditch the steering stabilizer?

Happy Father's Day to everyone here. If I am lucky, I will get an hour or two to install today.

 

[DanHall]

For the alignment question, I usually just stick a piece of tape on each tire and draw an vertical line on each for measurements. The you can rotate the tire to get the difference front to back.

 

[bknbronco]

yes ditch the steering stabilizer.....get it driving good without it, then decide if you need one. That's usually the first thing I throw away on any truck I have ever bought. Its just a bandaid for a shitty steering setup

 

[broncodriver99]

Thanks guys, great advice. Shoot - one last question (Promise!), should I ditch the steering stabilizer?

I wouldn't. It serves a purpose and Ford wouldn't have put it there if they didn't think it necessary.

 

[bronconut73]

Steering stabizer takes a lot of vibration and jolts on so the power steering box internals don't have to.
They are an apparent safety measure in the event of a blow out.
But BKN is right, they are often used as a band aid to mask other issues so his advice to take it off as you dial in your steering system is sound. Once you know you got it righteous put the stabilizer back on.

 

[BRONCROB]

^^What he said.They do help to save your tie rods and such and do cover up steering issues that almost every Bronco has.Not everyone can dial in a straight axle to where it drives like a car so a little help is good for some.

 

[matt w]

yes ditch the steering stabilizer.....get it driving good without it, then decide if you need one. That's usually the first thing I throw away on any truck I have ever bought. Its just a bandaid for a shitty steering setup

Yep so funny and true! Anyone adding even taller tires a body or suspension lift are modifying the truck beyond the factory designed intentions .;D