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timming on a 302/ carb is coughing

67broncorebuild

Sr. Member
Joined
May 29, 2008
Messages
426
Loc.
stanwood Wa
How do you know if your timing is correct?
And, my edelbrock performer carb is coughing,(not a bunch, every now and then) what am i doing wrong?(not a carb guy, dont know much about them).
Thanks
 

ken75ranger

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 27, 2002
Messages
5,069
Loc.
Troy, NY
Stock motors tend to like between 8-12 degrees timing. As far as Edelbrock carbs??? I dunno, I'm a Holley guy.
 

Explorer

Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
4,390
Loc.
Raphine, Virginia
Short answer on timing is where it runs good. 8-12* BTDC initial is a good starting point. Check for vacuum leaks, proper choke operation on the carb. Base setting on the 1406 carb for the idle mixture jets is 1 1/2 turns out. Turn in till rpms drop then back out 1/4 turn for performance. Both jets equal. For economy, start at the base setting and turn out till rpm's drop and turn in 1/4 turn. These are just the basic's and many other things can contribute to your problem. Give us the year, points or Duraspark, off idle stumble or higher rpm and you will get more info.
 

ugly74

Bronco abuser
Joined
Apr 17, 2006
Messages
2,847
I do my timing by ear. I aim for the fastest, smoothest idle, when it's up to it's normal temp. a lot of times, that's too advanced, and it may ping. so I got an adjustable vacuum advance, so I can retard it at that end.
 

cgbexec

Bronco Guru
Joined
Sep 19, 2006
Messages
2,071
Loc.
Naples, FL
1) Disconnect the vacuum advance hose on the distributer and using vice grips pinch it shut.
2) Using a timing light set your timing between 8*-12* BTDC. Turning the distributer clockwise with advance the timing (higher BTDC numbers) and counter-clockwise will retard the timing. Make sure that it sounds good and idles smooth before locking the distributer down.
3) Connect your Vacuum Advance back up.
4) Drive it see what you think.
a) If it sluggish, you may need to advance the timing, but you don't want to advance it so far that your motor pings or knocks.
b) If it is pinging or knocking under accelaration, you will need to retard the timing.

Good Luck!

Chris B.
 
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67broncorebuild

67broncorebuild

Sr. Member
Joined
May 29, 2008
Messages
426
Loc.
stanwood Wa
thanks, its a 72 302 in a 67 bronco. I have the hei distributer, no pinging, but could use some more power.. just advance it till it feels snappy, but dosent ping? I know i am close on the timing, but sometimes the carb coughs. I will run what was stated on the carb.
Thanks again to everyone!! im off to play in the snow!!!
 
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67broncorebuild

67broncorebuild

Sr. Member
Joined
May 29, 2008
Messages
426
Loc.
stanwood Wa
timing is perfict! the carb still coughs, but i will have to play with it some more
thanks again guys

I have about 14" of new snow, and a bunch of hills on my property,,,my first playtime in a early bronco(been moding it out for 3 years now)
MAN I LOVE THE WAY IT DIGS!!!!
I have had every other bronco(minus the sad bronco 2, and the 80's full sized), but the 66-77's till now. I liked the 78 i had(only cause it cost 600), but none compare to the old school bronco!!!!
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,906
Just out of curiosity, is the '72 engine original or rebuilt? If rebuilt, is it relatively new?
Just thinking about cams and break-ins and such.

Paul
 

ugly74

Bronco abuser
Joined
Apr 17, 2006
Messages
2,847
I consider one broken in, between 500-1000 miles.
were the cylinder heads also rebuilt?

the reason I ask, is because my dodge 360 would sometimes cough through the carb. turns out, the valves and guides were so sloppy, that a couple of the intake valves would sometimes hang up on their seats, letting pressure out, through the intake.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,906
the 72 302 has about 3-5 k on itrebuilt, with a rv cam. I think 5k is brake in period rite?

I was thinking more along the lines of the initial cam break-in procedure. If it's not done right you can sometimes (often enough) be the recipient of a too-soon worn out cam.
Break-in involves running the engine at 2500 to 3500 rpm for half-an-hour before doing anything else. No idle time, no fine-tuning, just that higher rpm running so that the cam can get it's fair share of oil splashed up and dripped down on the lobes.
And flattening cams tend to spit up through the carb. Especially when accellerating. Acting a lot like a super-lean condition.
Loose valvetrain components can have the same effect too, like ugly74 was saying.

And speaking of which... Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Your Edelbrock won't have a Power-Valve (can cause similar symptoms), so that's not an issue. But a lean condition due to a leak or non-moving metering rod or something like that could be causing your spitting.

And you say "coughing" (not spitting, like I'm using). S I'm wondering, is it actually spitting out the carb, or is your engine just momentarily dropping power and then picks back up?

Other than that, yes, your 5k should be well broken in for the rest of the moving parts. Typically, anything between 500 and 1000 is considered plenty and the point at which you can treat it like a rental. After 5k most of the stuff is loosened up enough to rule a tight engine out as a reason for running hot or not having enough power or for not getting the fuel-economy you expect.

Paul
 
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67broncorebuild

67broncorebuild

Sr. Member
Joined
May 29, 2008
Messages
426
Loc.
stanwood Wa
Yes the heads were rebuilt as well. I think its just the carb. I try to go up a steep hill in the back of my property, and the carb will cough if i dont give her some throttle before the climb. If i give some throttle before the run to climb, it digs, and digs without coughing.

I think its just the carb. Like i stated i am no carb man, but i need to learn myself, might as well start now, instead of on a trail somewhere in the back 40.
thanks
 
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