Tire Fit

[Capertrj]

Hello all. My 76 is currently getting some front end work done (tie rods, ball joints etc). It current has 33x1250x15 with 3.5" suspension and rear flares. It seems my current set up rubs on my tie rods so I want to get a larger rim to have more clearance. I am looking at the us mag Indy wheels 17x9 and getting 35x1250x17. I want to do the WH 1" body lift. Do I need front flares to fit 35s?

 

[DuctTape]

I was able to get 35s to fit with a 3.5" lift with some minor inner fender trimming, but the real answer to your question is "maybe". All of these rigs have their own peccadillos.

If you have access to a shop that will do test fittings, go that route. If not, get out the measuring tape and guesstimate the fitment before buying. Check backspacing, diameter, width, etc.

There really isn't a yes or no answer here, sorry.

Ps. Flares, by themselves, won't affect your clearance.


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[DirtDonk]

And if your current setup is something you like, and it fits under the fenders properly now and is just rubbing the tie-rod ends, you can get spacers like these: http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/s?keyword=wheel+spacers
to cure the rub without getting new wheels.

The thicker ones are higher quality and able to stand up to abuse, while the thinner ones should be considered light duty and not generally for big-tired rigs used off-road fairly often. With that said, they're pretty high quality as that type of spacer goes (some are extremely cheap and prone to cracking under stress) so you can use them under normal conditions with no trouble.

If your Bronco is driving now and just hitting, these solutions might be right for you.
Of course, if you're using this as a good reason to get the wheels you really want, then go for it!

Paul

 

[Prizefighter]

You should not. The 1" BL is going to help you. Those are beautiful wheels but super soft. I just had some 35s mounted on 15x10 U.S. Mags the other day and the machine gouged the back side of the wheel when it was mounted. Check your wheels after they mount them for the same thing. They also scratch very easily... I plan to run 35s (that measure 34.5") with a 3.5" suspension lift, I had Q78s on it before which are equivelant to about a 36" tire.

 

[Capertrj]

My current 33's are basically racing slicks so I figured since I am upgrading the tires I should look at wheels also. Are there any other 3.5" backspace rims out there? Vehicle will be mostly driving around town.

 

[Capertrj]

If I go 17" rim do I still need the 3.5" backspace? I don't want to keep blowing tie rods from rubbing on inside lip of rim. There might be a handful of 17" 3.5" backspace rims but tons of 4.5". I can either stay with current setup and get new 33/1250/15 or 1" BL with 35/1250. I noticed nit to makes a 1350 wide tire but figure that would be rubbing.

 

[DirtDonk]

Rubbing what? Is your tire hitting the rod ends? Should be the edge of the wheel doing all the rubbing in your case. Tire wouldn't last very long. Why go wider though, if you don't want to?

With a 17" wheel you're no longer going to need the 3.5" backspacing as the rim will clear with the larger diameter. So the 4.5 should be fine. I'm pretty sure there are many here running that combo now.

Your existing 15's would fit with the spacers of course, but your 17's wouldn't need anything usually. I say "usually' because there is the possibility that a particular wheel has a very thick casting in that critical area, but it's doubtful a 17 would be effected. It's more the 16's that are borderline there, where the 17's typically are large enough to clear the rod ends with no trouble.

If you don't already, you might as well flare the front fenders too. My opinion at least is that Broncos look better with either no flares at all, or flares at both ends. But not as much with the rear only.
Either way though, it's often the inner fender skirt/apron that hits the tire first. It's simply an extra edge of metal that Ford didn't bother to trim because it wasn't necessary with 28" tall tires and perhaps they thought it would protect certain areas from splash if they left it.
But trimming it is usually good for larger tires and nobody but an expert would ever know it's gone. In fact, yours might already be trimmed.

Paul

 

[Capertrj]

Rubbing what? Is your tire hitting the rod ends? Should be the edge of the wheel doing all the rubbing in your case. Tire wouldn't last very long. Why go wider though, if you don't want to?

With a 17" wheel you're no longer going to need the 3.5" backspacing as the rim will clear with the larger diameter. So the 4.5 should be fine. I'm pretty sure there are many here running that combo now.

Your existing 15's would fit with the spacers of course, but your 17's wouldn't need anything usually. I say "usually' because there is the possibility that a particular wheel has a very thick casting in that critical area, but it's doubtful a 17 would be effected. It's more the 16's that are borderline there, where the 17's typically are large enough to clear the rod ends with no trouble.

If you don't already, you might as well flare the front fenders too. My opinion at least is that Broncos look better with either no flares at all, or flares at both ends. But not as much with the rear only.
Either way though, it's often the inner fender skirt/apron that hits the tire first. It's simply an extra edge of metal that Ford didn't bother to trim because it wasn't necessary with 28" tall tires and perhaps they thought it would protect certain areas from splash if they left it.
But trimming it is usually good for larger tires and nobody but an expert would ever know it's gone. In fact, yours might already be trimmed.

Paul

Paul,

The lip on the inside of the rim rubs the tie rods. Both of the rubber grease fittings blew up due to rubbing. No rubbing on the radius arms. I get a slight rubbing on driver front fender due to my coil spring being 2" lower on that side (being fixed now). I was looking more of the classic look like the MT classic IIIs (4.5 backspace) or the MT indy wheels (3.5 backspace).

I was kinda leaning toward getting front flares for additional protection, currently it is stock. Wasn't sure if any value/desirability would be lost if I cut the front. I know rear uncut is sought after but wasn't sure about front. I just like the stance of the 35s so I was seeing what is necessary to fit them. Looks like ill do the 1" BL get four new flares (rears are cracked) then rims/tires.

Is the 1" BL able to be done in the driveway? Ive heard there isn't the gap associated with body lifts as well, I don't want that. Any other alterations? Its a C4 tranny.

 

[DirtDonk]

...I was looking more of the classic look like the MT classic IIIs (4.5 backspace) or the MT indy wheels (3.5 backspace).

Well, in theory at least, that 3.5 version shouldn't rub. Most people with your year Bronco say 3.5 wheels work just fine.
that said, if you go with a 17" size anyway, the 4.5 is just a better fit in my opinion. Looks nicer tucked in that one extra inch. Lots of others like it sticking out that inch too though, so you have to make your own preference at that point.

I was kinda leaning toward getting front flares for additional protection, currently it is stock.

Sounds like a reasonable idea from here. Especially since I like the double-cut look anyway.

Wasn't sure if any value/desirability would be lost if I cut the front. I know rear uncut is sought after but wasn't sure about front.

Not at all, as far as I know. Original is original, uncut is uncut. Any modification from there is non-original, so within reason a little more won't change the value to anyone I know of.
Besides, if it did the front fenders are so easy to replace (bolt on only) that it's kind of a no-brainer at that point.
Even the rears can be refurbished to new to where almost nobody would be able to tell. So if the uncut value ever exceeds the cut value by enough to make it worthwhile, you can always put the rear fenders back to stock.
But it's not there yet. The only uncut trucks that consistently get more money than a cut truck are the true originals in good shape. Otherwise, your truck is your truck so just make it the way that makes you happy.
Easy decision.

I just like the stance of the 35s so I was seeing what is necessary to fit them.

Yep, 35's on a slightly lifted EB are one of the best. For virtually similar results to most people, a 33 on a slightly less lifted EB is just what they wanted too.
Either way, there are just a lot of things to take into account when modding an old utility vehicle. So as long as those are all taken into account, the larger tire-mildly lifted Bronco is a great rig.

Looks like ill do the 1" BL get four new flares (rears are cracked) then rims/tires.

Depending on your color combination, flares painted body color can be very subtle and stealthy. Kind of in an "almost stock" looking sort of way. But only with the proper color combos.

Is the 1" BL able to be done in the driveway? Ive heard there isn't the gap associated with body lifts as well, I don't want that. Any other alterations? Its a C4 tranny.

There is always a gap. It's just the nature of the beast. The difference is that it's only 1" instead of two or three. A bigger difference than it sounds like, but there is still going to be a slightly larger than stock gap.
Heck, just putting on new mounts will often increase the gap (back to stock) because the old ones are so crushed down by now.

It's definitely a driveway project. But the same care is taken no matter what, with a little extra due to the variation in tools between a typical DIY garage and a pro shop with lifts doing the work.
The big trouble (if any) comes from rusty bolts and mounts.

Always disconnect the C4 linkage before the job. Unbolt the fan shroud too and lay it on the fan. Shouldn't be anything else, but in reality disconnecting the steering shaft has it's benefits as well. I didn't, and none of the others I've worked on did either, but some still find it better to do so.

There are plenty of threads about body lifts here, so we don't need to go into all the details here (yet). So check some out and ask if you still have questions. Removing the original mounts is either easy, or a TON of work. All depends on your truck.

Paul

 

[DuctTape]

Paul,

The lip on the inside of the rim rubs the tie rods. Both of the rubber grease fittings blew up due to rubbing. No rubbing on the radius arms. I get a slight rubbing on driver front fender due to my coil spring being 2" lower on that side (being fixed now). I was looking more of the classic look like the MT classic IIIs (4.5 backspace) or the MT indy wheels (3.5 backspace).

I was kinda leaning toward getting front flares for additional protection, currently it is stock. Wasn't sure if any value/desirability would be lost if I cut the front. I know rear uncut is sought after but wasn't sure about front. I just like the stance of the 35s so I was seeing what is necessary to fit them. Looks like ill do the 1" BL get four new flares (rears are cracked) then rims/tires.

Is the 1" BL able to be done in the driveway? Ive heard there isn't the gap associated with body lifts as well, I don't want that. Any other alterations? Its a C4 tranny.

You can limit the amount of rotation of your knuckles too. Take a close look, I can't remember at the moment exactly where the stops are but if you can't find it repost and I can take some pics.


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[Capertrj]

I tried posting earlier but didn't go through so here goes again.

Just got a call from the off-road shop that my entire suspension system is shot, well majority of it. They said it will be cheaper to replace whole thing. Thy looked in their system and said they have a 3" and 5" for 1200$ installed with all 9 shocks. From what I have seen all the EB bronco sites have lifts in half inch increments.

My end goal is to run 35x12.50x17 over my current setup of 33x12.50x15 with 3.5" suspension. I've been having trouble with tie rods rubbing rims so I want to go a little larger and clear steering components. So now that I need a whole new system I have a debate. Should I go 3.5" suspension and 1" body or straight 4.5" suspension? I really don't want a noticeable gap but have hear suspension over 3.5" can cause problems on EBs.

Current setup is after market steering linkage with dual shocks on every corner and rear fenders only. The shop said I can fit 35s no matter if I go 3.5/1 or 4.5. Does anyone know who makes EB kits in 3/5 inch? I was looking at the WH system but it is a little more but includes bushings. What setup is better 4.5 or 3.5/1?

Thanks!

 

[76YETI]

I run the eagle 058 wheels with 33's x 12.5 x 15. Just had to move the wheel weights towards the center of the rims to clear the brake calipers. They do not rub the tie rods...about 1/4" clearance I think back spacing is 3.68"

 

[englewoodcowboy]

I'm running 35's on 17x9 wheels with a 2.5 SL and 1" BL and flares. I have had to trim my flares on the front slightly on off camber turns they would rub slightly. I think an additional inch m help some however with the front uncut I do not think it will be enough however you can always try it first.


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[rguest3]

Do you like your current tires/wheels? If so, keep them.

How much backspacing does your current wheels have?

A 1/4" spacer on the front may solve the problem. Easy.

 

[Capertrj]

Do you like your current tires/wheels? If so, keep them.

How much backspacing does your current wheels have?

A 1/4" spacer on the front may solve the problem. Easy.

Current wheels are just white wagon wheels with some bald good years. I am going to go 3.5" suspension 1" BL with 17x9 mag Indy wheels. Wheels and tires are pretty rough shape.

Still debating tires. I want something that looks mean but does well in the sand and on the street.